Anyone have a good online source for the Hyperion 550mah packs?
Can't seem to find any in the US in stock.

Originally Posted by ShoGinn

Anyone have a good online source for the Hyperion 550mah packs?
Can't seem to find any in the US in stock.

I hear that. My LHS has been saying for weeks that he would have some in a few days. I certainly hope they are better batterys than them Lectron Pros are. I have three Eflite batts. that are still working perfectly after over 100 flights. I had three LPs to go with them, but they all fried up rather quickly in the last week or so. Meanwhile the cursed Eflites keep on keepin on, fllight after flight. Flew it 10 times today in the garage, doing the usual point hovering practice. Got 5 minutes out of all three with no complaints.

Guess I am going to have to buy more Eflite batts.

Just picked this heli up on craigslist (pretty cherry) came with 2 eflite packs and one is shot...

I love the hyperion stuff!

I might just end up getting some Proteks....

Originally Posted by ShoGinn

Anyone have a good online source for the Hyperion 550mah packs?
Can't seem to find any in the US in stock.

Check Quantum Hobby.

http://www.quantumhobby.com

Bummer out of stock...

Dang. I bought 2 of them from Quantum just last week. Good Hunting to you.

Just picked up some on ebay... we shall see if it is legit...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280764966886...84.m1497.l2649

said 550mah 25c..

Originally Posted by Helohead

Those are surface-mount resistors. ...

The main chip is the LED driver. Give me the number off of it and I may be able to tell you more.
Randy

Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim

I'm pretty sure those are the resistors; without them the led's will instantly fry. I see there are two connectors, one back to the battery and one forward to the 5-in-1 board. Did you notice a loss in power when you hooked up the lights, or are you using a separate battery?

Unfortunately, the number on the main chip is not visible without removing it, but thanks for that info. I did notice a loss of power when I used this set on the mSR I had, but I had a separate batt for the 120 SR--just so I wouldn't have to bother with a different connector. It appears to be rigged in parallel with the 5-in-1.

Originally Posted by wasatchcars

Sorry I did not mean collective pitch.
I meant coaxial helis.
Those little S107s.
I do have a clone T-Rex 450 but no where near ready to thy that yet.


For years I really wanted to get into rc helis.
Thought this was the right choice.

Seeing it will be AT LEAST a month till I get it back. I have not mailed it yet. I will mail it Monday.

I was thinking about just buying another one (from a different store) so I have something and when I get it back I could just keep it as a second if I like my replacement one or I could just sell it on eBay?

Or should I go with something else?
like a Walkera or Align?

I am new but determined to go on. I will not let this set me back.

Thanks for the info

I would hang on a little longer for the exchange with HH. They will undoubtedly send you a brand new one and you will find out that it's a blast. Walkera won't bind with your DX6i which--like the other guys have said--has been your biggest blessing so far. Align is good, but will cost you more in parts and you have to build the helis. Also, the 250 is bigger than your 120 SR, so you will be needing more room.

Originally Posted by soarsimon

I'm a relative heli noobie, had a cx in the past and just got a scout. The scout was/is so much fun that I ran out and bought a Blade 120SR. After 2 batteries I was able to fly it around the living room w/o running into much of anything, but then...
I cant get it to hover w/o it spinning around its yaw axis. Like the rudder isn't as responsive as it should be, by that I mean the tail rotor. I cant see any obvious damage. I even tried centering the rudder trim prior to turning it on per the manual, but no luck. I bought the BNF and am using a "new to me" DX7. It flew well for a while, but what gives? Is this a tail rotor motor issue? When I hold the skids and throttle it up, it seems to respond to rudder, but just not enough when flying.
Help, Please...

If the heli is spinning, it's the tail motor. Check the plugs on both the motor side and on the brick; also check the wires connecting to the tail motor. Hold the heli in your hand and turn it while the main rotor is turning. Does the tail rotor increase speed to keep it headed straight? If not, and your tail motor is turning and not stopped, it could be an electronic problem with the brick, but I doubt that would be the problem.

Originally Posted by Stoned doggie

Ok im new to this hobby and what do you mean by breaking your batterys in can you or some please explain what im sopost to do when i get any new lipo. Because im soon going to be buying 3cells

This is an easy to read lipo learning guild. Break in and so forth...

Put this in faves. Pay attention to the 80% rule..very important.
https://sites.google.com/site/tjingu...arging-how-tos

Mike.

I cant get it to hover w/o it spinning around its yaw axis

If you have so much as tapped an obstruction with the tail, first (and cheapest) thing to try is a new tailblade. The only part I've replaced in 8 months of fairly adventurous flying. They can appear to be mounted correctly but not grip the shaft.

Having a spare tail assembly on hand is a good idea. The motor WILL fail, all tailmotors do.

Hey, Thanks' Saxguy and Arbilab,
The tail rotor is spinning and appears to work, but it doesn't seem to be working as hard. It doesn't have the same sound that it did when I first started flying it. I've also definitely "tapped" a few things with it while flying/crashing. I'll head to the lhs on mon for some new parts.

Btw, are there any mixes or settings I should consider as a noobie pilot for the DX7? Or is there a thread where people have already asked the same questions and had them answered, that I should look through?

Thanks' again!

I haven't found any use for mixing with 120SR. Mine is obedient. But I got a 'good one', it's completely neutral. Pendulum is the only artifact and that can't be mixed away.

Not all samples of the model may behave this well, and pilot sensibilities may vary. I know of no concensus about adding mixing to 120SR, but then there are a great many things I don't know.