MultiWiiCopter (previously TriWiiCopter) - Page 598 - RC Groups
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Feb 15, 2011, 02:45 PM
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kinderkram's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB36
Just as a follow-up, it looks like that is the intended function, for either YAW or ROLL to arm/disarm the motors. I just never saw it mentioned in any of the notes or setup. The code seems to indicate this is the way it operates, correct?

if ( (rcData[YAW] < MINCHECK || rcData[ROLL] < MINCHECK) && armed == 1) {
if (rcDelayCommand == 20) { // rcDelayCommand = 20 => 20x20ms = 0.4s = time to wait for a specific RC command to be acknowledged
armed = 0;
writeAllMotors(MINCOMMAND);
}
I think this could be easily avoided when the function is only activated when using a Tri.
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Feb 15, 2011, 02:45 PM
Registered User
nicnaimless's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kinderkram
There is a KKBoard on the site but no Ready to go WiiCopter boards. Are they just out of stock?
Feb 15, 2011, 02:48 PM
Leesburg FL
Quote:
Originally Posted by kinderkram
It's a feature, not a bug.
This is for Tris to avoid killing their props.

But you're right: it's damn surprising when the throttle doesn't have the range to arm/disarm - but the roll has!

Alex should post it on page one. Maybe the download could also contain a li'l Read-Me? Alex?
No problem! I do consider it a feature, now that I know about it. (That'll teach me to get a bit more familiar with the code) This is actually handy, as I have run across fooling with the trim on Yaw, and found I couldn't sut off the motors untill I put the trim back.

The thought that has gone into this code never ceases to amaze me.

Thanks!
Feb 15, 2011, 02:51 PM
Registered User
capt's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicnaimless
There is a KKBoard on the site but no Ready to go WiiCopter boards. Are they just out of stock?
This is it, you still need to solder the pins in the promini and the header pins into the board. No plug/Play MultiWii that I know of. It's really not that hard to complete and kind of fun actually-good skills to learn!

http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...ter-board-v1-2
Feb 15, 2011, 02:55 PM
Registered User
richardkalaf's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by capt
This is it, you still need to solder the pins in the promini and the header pins into the board. No plug/Play MultiWii that I know of. It's really not that hard to complete and kind of fun actually-good skills to learn!

http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...ter-board-v1-2
Are you guys talking about building a board with the arduino chip and all ? Did i get it right?

Or just a board to fit the ready-made promini board, and all the sensors?

In case itīs the first scenario, iīve built a few, and am about to build another one today, but itīs a little heavier since its got thru-hole components, as i canīt solder smdīs.

Search for RBB (real bare bones) arduino board.

Richard.
Feb 15, 2011, 03:11 PM
Fournier RF4D N1771 Awesome!
jb92563's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by reverendrichie
Ray, I have been thinking about trying this, do you have a brand name or a link for the laser transfer? Also, what about the software to create the circuit?

Thank you.
Here you go Rev,

PCB Laser Toner Transfer Method Uses glossy magazine pages, so visit your local recycle bin for free samples.

PCB Muriatic Acid method if Ferric Chloride not available

Note: Beware the expensive brand name "water proof" glossy photo paper as this stuff will not dissolve as required in the above 2 processes.

KiCad PCB Open Source Software

I heard that KiCad is prefered to Eagle-cad because KiCad produces "Gerber" format files which are industry standard and can be taken to any PCB shop.

I have not tried any of these so the above info is a brain dump of what I have read about so far.

Ray
Feb 15, 2011, 03:24 PM
Registered User
Cid156's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kinderkram
Maybe this one helps?

I know that Berkely did a diagram but I can not find it.
Can we plug the two devices in paralell or do we have to do a cascade ??

Btw I received my sensor. Thank
Feb 15, 2011, 03:24 PM
No thrust...It'll bust...
troynh's Avatar
Ray,

Great links!

Thanks,

-Tim
Feb 15, 2011, 03:26 PM
Registered User
rimshotcopter's Avatar
Thank you Ray, over my lifetime, I have been bless to have had two complete career changes. Looks like I am approaching the third.
Feb 15, 2011, 03:54 PM
Registered User
mgros's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cid156
I know that Berkely did a diagram but I can not find it.
Can we plug the two devices in paralell or do we have to do a cascade ??

Btw I received my sensor. Thank
All I2C devices should be connected in parallel.
Feb 15, 2011, 04:11 PM
Registered User
TCopter / TriCopter PCB. A number of people have asked me if I would sell my PCB boards and I've had to say no. I only make the boards I need to build TCopters to sell locally. And unfortunately the software I use (ExpressPCB) does not output any useable files to duplicate the etching. They just allow you to place orders online through their etch lab directly from your design in the program. They do offer quantity breaks but I'm only able to order 3 at a time (tight budget) and they cost me $85 for 3 boards. I would have to charge a whopping $40 or $45 to make it worth my while. I can't afford to order 20 boards at a time to get the cost down further. Not very cost effective for you guys. I'm sure this board can be made a lot cheaper if someone wants to redraw it. I will say they make a very good board for the money though.

I mentioned that my board is nothing exotic, only wiring in the WM+, the Arduino Pro Mini and all I/O (receiver pins and ESC pins) as well as the I2C to the WM+. I did add some FPV routing and power for a 12V FPV camera and a 12V FPV video TX to my latest board but that's pretty simple too.

Anyway here is a captured image from the design package so you guys can duplicate it in another PCB program but I'm afraid that's all I can provide.
I have no problem with someone duplicating it, I just can't provide any help aside from this image.

Best Regards
Chuck Stasek
Feb 15, 2011, 04:11 PM
Registered User
Guy..

I'm a bit confused again about betting up .. bma020 ?

Do we just uncommon ( cant this be done in the code ? when you activated the sensor you are running it activated the right .. config for internal pullup ?)


/* I2C accelerometer */
//#define ADXL345
#define BMA020
//#define BMA180


or do we also,

//enable internal I2C pull ups
#define INTERNAL_I2C_PULLUPS

in my WMP+ and NK setup I did not uncomment the Internal_I2C_Pullups




Quote:
Originally Posted by tbee
This is how I enable the pull up, I still have problem with the board though.

//****** advanced users settings *************

//enable internal I2C pull ups
#define INTERNAL_I2C_PULLUPS

Hope this helps
Quote:
Originally Posted by JUERGEN_
But why?
ELV-BMA020 are included in the 10K pullup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by capt
You need 1.6 then uncomment bma020 in the accl section of configurable parameters.
Feb 15, 2011, 04:18 PM
Registered User
Hmm I think this answered my question..

If you sensors are running "behind" a logic level converse or support 5v then you CAN activate the "internal pullups" ..

hmm you CAN ..but is it required ?

I'm running original WMP+ and original NK..but did not activate it..

maybe I'm still confused..

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinball
If you activate internal pull ups that will put ~5 volts on the clock lines. You must have a logic converter unless your ship supports 5 volt logic
Feb 15, 2011, 04:22 PM
Re-Kitting Expert :o
Chuck,

Is there a way to send a link to the plan on the site where you have it made? Or a way to save the file so we can go to the same spot and have it built?

Thanks
Feb 15, 2011, 04:27 PM
Registered User
hi, i just managed to knock off a resistor on my nunchuck while cutting the connector off, it is marked R1, on the photos, but I have lost it, it connects to one of the wires that solder to the M+, I am thinking it is a pull-up resistor so I could just solder a resistor from the wire to the positive wire?


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