Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Jan 27, 2011, 06:46 PM
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I was thinking of just having 3 different 'profiles'. I really only want to change the pitch / roll rate and maybe the yaw rate. All though I can see wanting to change the PID too, but I think adding everything to the LCD config would be better.

I think assigning a Tx switch would be perfect for switching the rates. And you would probably only want to switch them when the copter was on the ground unarmed.

LMK if you need someone to test or to help you out. If I can ever get some free time I will be looking into the code more also.
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Old Jan 27, 2011, 06:47 PM
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Also, I tried setting up dual rates on my Tx, and it really doesn't have the same feel as changing the pitch roll rate in the GUI.
Old Jan 27, 2011, 06:47 PM
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(tbd)
Last edited by Gosa77; Jan 27, 2011 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Rethink to avoid confusion..
Old Jan 27, 2011, 06:48 PM
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Bug found in SERIAL_SUM_PPM define.

Using Hitec Eclipse 7 and HFD-08RD receiver with ppm sum signal extracted from pin1 of IC4015 (http://paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/Image:Electron6mod.jpg)

On oscilloscope I have determined the channel order in serial sum signal as: 1,3,2,4,5,6,7 meaning Roll, Throttle, Pitch, Yaw, Aux1 (it matches Alex code for hitec)

Also, using this settings on #define Serial_sum_ppm, results in swapping throttle with pitch. The working combination found randomly, because swapping throttle and pitch provoke a bigger mess including yaw, is: ROLL YAW THROTTLE PITCH AUX


PS. More tweaking on receivers for PPM sum signal found here:http://paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/RC_Rec...72MHz_Reciever
Last edited by dramida; Jan 27, 2011 at 07:00 PM.
Old Jan 27, 2011, 06:50 PM
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Someone was asking for setup details for a small tri? Attached are the settings I am currently running on my 8 inch m2m.
Old Jan 27, 2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinball View Post
I was thinking of just having 3 different 'profiles'. I really only want to change the pitch / roll rate and maybe the yaw rate. All though I can see wanting to change the PID too, but I think adding everything to the LCD config would be better.

I think assigning a Tx switch would be perfect for switching the rates. And you would probably only want to switch them when the copter was on the ground unarmed.

LMK if you need someone to test or to help you out. If I can ever get some free time I will be looking into the code more also.
As I was washing dishes (Yes I do wash dishes LOL) I was thinking also that four would be plenty. That would leave 512 bytes for someone else to develop and use if needed.
Old Jan 27, 2011, 06:56 PM
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Also, I tried setting up dual rates on my Tx, and it really doesn't have the same feel as changing the pitch roll rate in the GUI.
Unfortunately, I am using a T6 Transmitter and never have used anything else. Sorry
Old Jan 27, 2011, 07:07 PM
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It's here! The OnLine Universal Ardu Configurator 1.00 by Dani Saez

ArduPirates



MultiWii


There are 2 working versions:

- The ArduPirate NG
- The MultiWii 1.5


Big thanks go out to Dani, Emile & Hein from the ArduPirates' Crew!

Norbert
Old Jan 27, 2011, 07:18 PM
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Peer, this is ingenious and it resolves a problem I have. Now I can do a direct drive motor tilt. thank you.

Old Jan 27, 2011, 07:49 PM
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The TCat


First of all thank you to Alex for a really great controller design and thanks to the rest of you for contributing to the valuable discussion!

I have been following this thread for a while and a couple of weeks ago on a cold and dreary Sunday morning I decided to built a TCopter entirely from spare parts I had laying around. I pretty much completed the airframe on the first day but it's taken a couple of weeks to finish the electronics and wait for weather suitable for testing. The only thing I ended up having to buy was the WiiMotionPlus. I went for a "real" one and had no problems getting it to work.

Here is a photo gallery of the build:

http://picasaweb.google.com/RocketMa...vGoIqms5bXiQE#

The first 15 pictures were taken on that first Sunday and the rest about a week ago.

I was finally able to flight test it outside yesterday afternoon and I am astounded at how good it flys!

Here are some notes on my configuration:

My controller uses the Arduino Pro Mini (16 mHz, 5V) with WMP only. I'm running v1.5 firmware with standard gains. I wired it by hand and tried to keep it as compact as possible. I was really pleased with the result.

The motors are "Blue Wonders" from HobbyKing. I'm using 1300kv for the two front motors and 1500kv for the tail. That's what I had available and I convinced myself that it would be beneficial to have a higher kv motor on the tail and it looks like I was right. The ESCs are Turnigy Plush 10A. I was surprised I had three of them in my ESC drawer.

The frame is made from left over 450 size heli tail booms. I wasn't sure they would be strong enough on their own so I inserted wooden dowels and glued them in with a generous amount of Gorilla Glue (polyurethane). Then as you can see from the pictures I used a plywood inner frame and 2mm coroplast for the outer frame. Actually I think I got carried away with this and it would be interesting to try another one without the wooden parts to reduce the weight.

For the tail pivot I'm using a 450 size blade holder which works great. The servo is a DMG-16 which seems to work extremely well for this application.

The standard props for the "Blue Wonder" motors on 3S are GWS 8x4 but I couldn't even get it to lift off the ground with those. I switched to GWS 9x5 and it was a completely different animal!

My total weight with 3S-1000 battery is around 450g so it is not light but it flys well. I was surprised after the initial testing with the 8x4 props.

I know you can't get away without posting a video here, so here you go:

The TCat With Surprise Ending (6 min 31 sec)


It has a bit of a surprise ending! Sorry it is so long but after I got the "picture-in-picture" worked out again I didn't have enough energy to look for the best clips.

I'm hoping for a big snow fall soon to cover the ground that is like concrete right now. Then I'm going to practice some flips and rolls.

Cheers to all.

Rick
Old Jan 27, 2011, 08:51 PM
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More on PID


Got a chance to get out to some wide open space today, the nicest day of the year yet!!!

While flying big smooth aerobatics, I found the downfall of a large negative "D" coefficient. Trying to do smooth loops & rolls, the "D" makes manouvers look knotchy as D resists changes in control rate. Example, while doing rolls, a small change in stick input results in no control rate change until some threshold is reached, then the control rate jumps to a different rate rather than making a smooth control rate transition. In the simplest terms I can say, a large negative D results in a knotchy control rate response. This makes sense mathmaticly and proves out in flight testing.

I reduced the negativness(I'll buy alex a beer if he takes that sign out of the gui) of D from -40 to -30 and am again happy with how my largish (32.5" motor to motor) tri flys.

While the above is true, if you're not flying aerobatics, I still see a big negative D as a good thing.
Old Jan 27, 2011, 08:54 PM
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Reverend: I would also like to be able to change the roll / pitch rates on the fly. It seems like it should be possible, I looked thru the code real fast and found the variables, but I am not sure where / how / when they get stored to the eprom.

On another note, I recently went from a DX6i to a DX8. When I was flying my mini-T from the 6i I had all rates sets to 125% and could pull off rolls inside my shop at work. I got the DX8 setup and set throws to max which is 150%, first time a tried a roll outside with it the copter locked into the roll, rolled about 6 times before it hit the ground.

I thought the 150% throw might have been to much for the controller and caused it to lock into the roll? Realized I could lower the throw down to 125% and the throws were about the same as with my 6i. It still feels like it rolls WAY faster with the DX8 tho. Is it just in my head or has anyone else noticed something similar when switching transmitters? I did not change anything else in the setup.
you should calibrate your tx by adjusting the endpoints on your tx so that it ranges from 1000-2000 on the gui with full swing on the sticks.
Old Jan 27, 2011, 08:57 PM
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Peer, this is ingenious and it resolves a problem I have. Now I can do a direct drive motor tilt. thank you.

what is the servo coupler made from?
Old Jan 27, 2011, 09:02 PM
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what is the servo coupler made from?
This is Peer's work but it looks like clear plastic. I will be using plastic as well.