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Old Jul 24, 2012, 06:31 AM
gunradd is online now
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The install was inside a BVM F16 and was done by the great Ralf Dorvak (RIP)

How ever you do it I would recomend to make sure its locked before flight and open it after landing. When I had mine I would taxi out with it open and close it before taking off. Well that was until a strong head wind kept it from locking and it departed the plane after takeoff.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 03:12 PM
super kupfer is offline
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Wis, dont give yourself a headache with all those linkages just put a sub micro servo in the nose to actuate a locking pin and just program it in your radio (that's what most people I see do and it would be easy to do since you already cut the nose off the jet).

Back in post #795 I was talking about needing to come up with a way to install the canopy hinges so that I have access to my fuel tanks if I ever need to take them out (in the picture you can see the limited space I'm dealing with........May have to just live with a permanent install if I cant find a solution).

Was going to glue the two front bulkheads a while back but ended only gluing the middle one (holding off on the front till I finish the nose gear steering).
Old Jul 26, 2012, 08:22 PM
Lance Nordby is offline
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Yep, there's that hysteresis I was talking about. Saved me a sketch.

Adding a servo would probably be less fiddly though. And since you spent so much money on that radio...

Ok, I'll shut up.
Old Jul 26, 2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by super kupfer View Post
Wis, dont give yourself a headache with all those linkages just put a sub micro servo in the nose to actuate a locking pin and just program it in your radio (that's what most people I see do and it would be easy to do since you already cut the nose off the jet).

Back in post #795 I was talking about needing to come up with a way to install the canopy hinges so that I have access to my fuel tanks if I ever need to take them out (in the picture you can see the limited space I'm dealing with........May have to just live with a permanent install if I cant find a solution).

Was going to glue the two front bulkheads a while back but ended only gluing the middle one (holding off on the front till I finish the nose gear steering).
Wow, that is tight. It would be difficult not to make it permanent.

I may use the existing servo for the latch and buy a little bigger one with more torque for the canopy.
Old Jul 26, 2012, 10:24 PM
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Yep, there's that hysteresis I was talking about. Saved me a sketch.

Adding a servo would probably be less fiddly though. And since you spent so much money on that radio...

Ok, I'll shut up.
If I use another servo it'll be on a Y because I've used up all my channels on the receiver. Doh!
Old Jul 27, 2012, 09:16 AM
gunradd is online now
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I had 2 servos for my canopy and had them on the same channel. Using servo slow you can get it to work but it takes a lot of trial and error.

I had a big servo that moved the canopy up and down. Then a small micro servo the moved a control horn that I shaped like a hook with a dremel. I had it just forward of the canopy. It grabbed a small rail I had on the canopy.
Old Jul 27, 2012, 10:57 AM
EDF Crazy is offline
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Maybe you could try doing it with one or two Lado electric gear door actuators? you might have enough strength to not even need a locking mechanism, maybe just some vertical locating pins to stop any horizontal movement and rely on the actuator to hold it down. Just a thought...

http://www.lado-tech.net/en/e-doors/...door-30mm.html
Old Jul 27, 2012, 12:34 PM
super kupfer is offline
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Originally Posted by EDF Crazy View Post
Maybe you could try doing it with one or two Lado electric gear door actuators? you might have enough strength to not even need a locking mechanism, maybe just some vertical locating pins to stop any horizontal movement and rely on the actuator to hold it down. Just a thought...

http://www.lado-tech.net/en/e-doors/...door-30mm.html
Those are so cool.

If they are strong enough it may be worth experimenting (I would go with two of them, one on each canopy hinge).
Old Jul 27, 2012, 05:40 PM
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I have a Lado on my Spark nose door, very strong indeed. Huge amounts of torque. Haven't measured it nor do i know how much. They aren't travel adjustable. They are designed to stop at each end of their stroke. I'm guessing they are current limited

Chris
Old Jul 27, 2012, 10:07 PM
super kupfer is offline
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I have a Lado on my Spark nose door, very strong indeed. Huge amounts of torque. Haven't measured it nor do i know how much. They aren't travel adjustable. They are designed to stop at each end of their stroke. I'm guessing they are current limited

Chris
Too bad they are not travel adjustable.......no biggy.
Old Jul 29, 2012, 01:23 PM
ysolomon is offline
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You can try this. Works pretty good, and fully programmable: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11258
Old Jul 29, 2012, 05:06 PM
GudmundT is offline
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I managed to maiden my Yellow F-16 this morning. It flies wonderfully.

Check out the pictures and post-build comments here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1701338
Old Aug 14, 2012, 01:46 AM
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I managed to maiden my Yellow F-16 this morning. It flies wonderfully.

Check out the pictures and post-build comments here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1701338
Love your work
Old Aug 14, 2012, 01:54 AM
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Guys, ones you remove the none brake wheel adpt. off the main wheel axle and slide the brake rotor followed by the wheel, How do you get the nylon washer on prior to the c-clip (not much room left there and I pushed the brake rotor on the axle as far as it will go)??????

BTW, the foam wheels suck a$$, they dont even roll straight.
Old Sep 06, 2012, 07:42 PM
Wisdumb is offline
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I'm back! Here's some torque rod installin' action!

Episode #75 (10 min 20 sec)


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