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Jun 11, 2010, 08:49 AM
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boopidoo's Avatar
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Boopidoo's Tricopter


Hello!

Inspired by daddes incredible tricopter I decided to design something similar. The shape and design is heavily based on his build-log and I have also been in contact with him for help and tips. Anyway, this is what it looks like now. I've started building in at home but since I don't have good enough tools such as a CNC or similar the result is somewhat more rough then on the renders.

This design doesn't need a blade grip, instead I just use a feathering shaft from an Esky Belt-CP2, CF tubes and an alumium tube as spacer. This results in a really tight nice tilt with no slack.

The camera will either have a tilt function or be fixed slightly downward. I will also use an ET V3 Logger, ET OSD and an ET Altimeter to keep track of current, amps, voltage and altitude. The RC will be a Scherrer LRS with a NR Rx on the tricopter.

Daddes project thread: http://www.rcexplorer.se/projects/tr...tricopter.html

Daddes setup guide: http://www.rcexplorer.se/page14/triguide/triguide.html

Parts used:
3 Turnigy 924Kv 2213 motors
3 25A Hobbyking SuperSimple ESC
3 11x4.7 TP Slowfly propellers
4 HK401B gyro
1 Rhino 2150mAh 20C battery
1 4mm CF tube
1 Turnigy Digital MG servo
10mm wood arms
2mm plywood sheets



EDIT 1: After a lot of good tips and also some experience I've improved the design and I've also updated pictures, renders and have added new drawings.


EDIT 2: DXF-files are attached.
Last edited by boopidoo; Dec 08, 2010 at 03:04 AM.
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Jun 11, 2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boopidoo

So, any tips of improvements before I finish my build?

Read this thread, all the great tips and ideas are here.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1142429
Jun 11, 2010, 01:40 PM
Registered User
May I suggest you my yaw mount ?
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=7321
Jun 11, 2010, 01:48 PM
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Daemon's Avatar
I like that yaw mount idea a lot. The heli based bearing mount on mine has been bent
several times just from the weight/momentum of the motor following a hard
landing on the normal foam legs.

ian
Jun 11, 2010, 05:52 PM
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boopidoo's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks for the ideas! I've made a version of the mount seen in my sketches since I've got about 20 of these Esky axles I might just as well find some use for them.

I think that the plywood I use might be too weak at least for the center part of the fuselage (1,5mm top and 2mm bottom). But now they're cut out so I will try them first.

Anyway, how many degrees should the motor be able to tilt? Also what does your structure weigh? No motor, electronics, FPV-stuff etc.
Jun 11, 2010, 05:59 PM
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Daemon's Avatar
My Mongrelgear Trilogy is about 28oz without battery.

ian
Jun 11, 2010, 08:14 PM
CASA Certified RPAS Instructor
The_Mongrel's Avatar
Cool design.

One thing I have tried to do with my Trilogy (and following on from Bob's build) is to make it easy to fix.

Lets face it, we all crash at some point. The last thing you want is t be grounded because some part on the copter broke, and now you have to wait for it to ship to you.

Keep the build simple with simple parts.

The design I use is no way perfect, but certain parts of it make sense.

Zip ties on the motor will save your motors in a crash. The zips will break first.

Standard wooded arms with the motors attached directly. If the break, just buy a new bit of wood, drill a couple of holes and mount it and fly!

The yaw mount is made of almost indestructible Poly-Plastic. So in a crash you will either break the Blade Grip, bend the Blade Grip Shaft, or the Zip ties on the motor. The Poly-Plastic will survive. In any of the above cases, the fix is easy.

I have also used butteyfly nuts to hold the legs, so that you can fold it up to take it home, but there is no chance of it folding in the air.

That's my way of thinking anyway.

Good luck, and keep us posted. If I can be of help, ask away.

Cheers
Mongrel
Jun 12, 2010, 12:19 AM
Registered User
HaKK's Avatar
boopidoo,

be a gent and post up the printable shapes of centerpieces and motor holders so I don't have to draw them myself .

Dadde has quite a nice build on RCExplorer.se so I was gonna follow his layout as I like to also use PCB fiberglass for builds.
I was in Hong Kong 2 weeks ago for work and picked up 2 tricopters worth of electronics among other stuff.
For motors I got Turnigy 2213 22turn 924kv 17A (from design I see you plan to use similar ones) and also KDA20-22L to try. I also got 4x HK401B gyros as Dadde had better results with them in his second build and they are cheaper than TeleBees. TLRS NR RX will be receiver.

HaKK
Jun 12, 2010, 05:29 PM
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boopidoo's Avatar
Thread OP
@The Mongrel
Thanks for the tips. I agree with the philosophy that it should be simpel and easy to repair. I've tried to construct it using the same philosophy albeit the construction is slighlty different. Anyway, if anything breaks it will likely be easy and cheap to fix.

@HaKK
Sure I'll be glad to post some layouts. Do you want them in PDF or maybe some CAD format? I would have preffered to make the mount parts out of fiberglass sheets but I don't have any right now and it would be so much easier with a CNC or phlatprinter etc.

And yes, it's the 924kv motors I've got.
Jun 12, 2010, 08:09 PM
Registered User
Easy to repair or no repair needed with aluminum. This makes good sense to me 6061 Tri-copter. i got the frame ordered now I need good motors.

http://fpvpilot.com/400Tricopter.aspx
Jun 12, 2010, 08:23 PM
CASA Certified RPAS Instructor
The_Mongrel's Avatar
Looks great! - but expensive!! $109 for the frame!!

Then add landing gear and battery holder.

I love the fact that I can crash my copter and "IF"anything breaks, I am in the air in about 30 minutes.

Even my main body is just plywoood. Go down to your local hardware, and cut out as many as you like.

The only other thing that would worry me with aluminium frame is it conducts. So it will effect your radio, and if any electrical components short out on it -

Still... it looks great!

Cheers
-J
Jun 12, 2010, 08:35 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Mongrel

The only other thing that would worry me with aluminium frame is it conducts. So it will effect your radio, and if any electrical components short out on it -

Still... it looks great!

Cheers
-J
I only paid $89. I would agree also but as Carbon Fiber and Aluminum are both conductive and used in just about every RC helicopter and rarely an issue if any. Just got to take the same care as I would with any thing electric whether mounted on wood, fiber glass, CF, G10, plastic, etc,,,and plus I just like the look of aluminum too
Jun 12, 2010, 08:39 PM
CASA Certified RPAS Instructor
The_Mongrel's Avatar
It looks great!!

Let us know how it goes.
Jun 13, 2010, 09:16 AM
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HaKK's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by boopidoo
@HaKK
Sure I'll be glad to post some layouts. Do you want them in PDF or maybe some CAD format? I would have preffered to make the mount parts out of fiberglass sheets but I don't have any right now and it would be so much easier with a CNC or phlatprinter etc.

And yes, it's the 924kv motors I've got.
Either formats are fine. I can jut resize them if needed. Thanks. Fiberglass is nice and strong and does not have shielding issues like metal and carbon.

HaKK
Jun 13, 2010, 09:56 AM
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boopidoo's Avatar
Thread OP
Does it matter where I put the gyros as long as they're aligned parallel to the correct axis? Do they have to be placed on the axis as well?

My guess is that it doesn't matter as long as they're aligned parallel to the axis at hand. Please input if I'm wrong about this since I'm about to place the gyros now.

EDIT: A question. I use the Turnigy 302 gyros and when I power on the they just keep blinking. They do this even when I use a BEC instead of an ESC.
Last edited by boopidoo; Jun 13, 2010 at 11:31 AM.


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