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Old Mar 12, 2013, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ir3 View Post
Hi Jan,

Once again, great work on the flood holes. It looks like I will be switching to Li-Po's whether I get a reply from Engel or not. They are the correct fit for the ESC's and the brushless motors. Yes, getting the ESC's and brushless motors from Engel is a bit expensive but I think well worth it. The ESC's are programmable which is a nice feature. To make the change, he supplies the motors and a new aluminum bulkhead which is a perfect match for the existing non brushless motor installation so the change was easy.

I am currently cleaning up another project and will be getting back to the VIIC very soon.

As usual, keep up the great work and keep the updates coming,

Iran
Hi Iran,

I only will purchase two ESC and I want to use the stock motors, I expect a battery running time from more than three hours and that will be enough for a hole day sealing because most of the time on a event I'm talking and looking my brains out
Running the sub in your one are not that eventful, in that case, flying a model Apache attack helicopter will do the job just nice (that's my other hobby)

Kind regards,

Jan,
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 01:32 PM
crowman17 is offline
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Jan,
What are you using to grind out the holes under the conning tower?

Marc
Old Mar 12, 2013, 01:45 PM
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Hi Marc,

I use a diamond file 1.5 mm thick and 4.8 mm width and also my wives nail file (don't tell here I have it)

But you can find them also by the better workshops.

Jan,
Old Mar 28, 2013, 07:06 AM
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Hi Guys,

Here a little teaser

They are already old these photo's but it gives a good impression.









Here you see the flood holes still unattached under the conning tower.
It looks better now, but I did not make any photo's the past period.





Regards,

Jan,
Old Apr 04, 2013, 06:23 PM
ir3 is offline
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TAES Shelf


Hi Jan,

Great work. I am in the process of cutting the flood holes. A lot of work as you pointed out.

I don't remember if you are going to install the TAES. It is a nice device in that you can set the hold depth via a switch on the transmitter and cancel it any time you wish using the same switch.

If you are going to install the TAES, the shelf is in the wrong place and with the TAES installed, the slot in the bulkhead for servo wires is blocked. I have a picture on my thread.

Just a heads up and keep the updates coming.

Iran
Old May 15, 2013, 09:01 AM
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Updates?
Old Jun 25, 2013, 04:04 AM
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Fantastic work Horseman. I love it!
Old Jun 25, 2013, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by spooksgone View Post
Fantastic work Horseman. I love it!
Thanks,

At the moment there no movement at all in the submarines department but it will be continued some day,

Because its a great looking Sub what deserves to finish here.

Kind regards,

Jan,
Old Jun 25, 2013, 12:10 PM
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Very nice work, Jan!

Matt
Old Sep 10, 2013, 06:23 PM
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wiring


Hi chaps
Is there an easy to understand wiring diagram for this sub,i have inherited the model and dont have a good diagram.
cheers rick.
Old Sep 11, 2013, 10:56 AM
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Engel Type VII Wiring Diagram


Hi Rick,

I am not sure what documentation you have but attached is the wiring diagram I have from my build. I hope it helps. You may be able to enlarge it somewhat but my camera does not have great resolution. I will be happy to send you a copy in the mail if this does not help.

IR3
Old Sep 11, 2013, 02:57 PM
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Hi lr3
Thanks for that it will be a great help,this is my first attempt at building a sub and the first time i have built a remote control model [nothing like jumping in at the deep end]
Most off it is going together ok but find some parts need to be modified like in these posts which i find bad on a model this expensive.Ill keep ploding on and hopefully get it finished one day.
Rick.
Old Sep 22, 2013, 04:55 PM
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wiring


Hi
I have built the rack and have run most off the wiring in,im a little unsure how to wire the motor controls in [i have 2] also have a magnetic switch which im not sure about.
Does the magnetic switch have its own battery or do you wire into the main battery.
The motor controls have 4 thick wires and a loom that i prosume goes to the receiver.
Were do i get the power from for the receiver.
any help would be great
Pictures would be good too.
Thank you for any help you give.
Regards Rick.
Old Oct 03, 2013, 04:38 AM
DDG 51 is offline
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For magetic swith you do not need battery It is conected between main battery and receiver. It is working as magnetic reley, you swithching circuit by magnet. Works excellent.You do not need open front hull section, to turn it on or off. Just moving magnedoutsie of the hull, where is installed magnetic switch. DO not install it in the middle of the hull, must be on one side
Old Oct 17, 2013, 06:33 PM
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Hey Rick here are some pics of my magnetic switches. My submarine uses two, a 6 volt 16 amp from the main 6v lead acid battery to the dive system etc, and a 6 volt 2 amp from the 4.8 volt battery to the Rx.


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