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Old Feb 08, 2011, 04:41 PM
lupy is offline
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This is basically a light 40 class plane. I fly several seaplanes , that range from 90-110 oz using a e-flight .32 on 4 cells using around 500watts max and a apc 12/6 prop. This produces about 70oz static, While not vertical monsters, they fly just fine at this power level. Unless the plane is really poorly designed, it should fly resonably with this combo. 1000 watts just seems like overkill unless the motor is a real stinker, then it would make more sense to ditch the motor; the more expensive batteries will cost more in the long run, add weight, and kill the run time.
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Old Feb 08, 2011, 04:55 PM
SON OF PALEFACE is offline
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So your flying at around 120 watts per lb.........

I will post the facts and figures next week when I get mine running

Ian
Old Feb 08, 2011, 07:10 PM
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Curiosity got the better of me , so I managed to mount the motor and speedy.......here's what my E-meter said

APC 12 x 6

Tunigy 6s x 4 AH

Tunigy 80A speedy

after 2min stabilized at

25volts
454watts
19A

this is only 82watts per Lb.......... @ 5.5Lbs

So you will be able to fly for a long time or/and wont need big lipo's like these........unless I need the nose weight

Ian
Old Feb 08, 2011, 09:49 PM
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Ian, are those numbers with the stock motor provided by HK?
Old Feb 08, 2011, 09:50 PM
baddb1 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SON OF PALEFACE View Post
Curiosity got the better of me , so I managed to mount the motor and speedy.......here's what my E-meter said

APC 12 x 6

Tunigy 6s x 4 AH

Tunigy 80A speedy

after 2min stabilized at

25volts
454watts
19A

this is only 82watts per Lb.......... @ 5.5Lbs

So you will be able to fly for a long time or/and wont need big lipo's like these........unless I need the nose weight

Ian
From what I saw on mine,, you'll definitely need the nose weight to get the correct CG.
Old Feb 09, 2011, 12:15 AM
SON OF PALEFACE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highfly! View Post
Ian, are those numbers with the stock motor provided by HK?
Absotivetly , thats wot we wuz talking about..
I like going this way , high voltage , low current....at the end of the day it costs roughly the same to get the same watts....more batts but a cheaper speedy , but much less pain than with the higher Amp draw which usually means more heat in the speedy / motor...

BTW....plenty of thrust , should fly at around half throttle...
Old Feb 09, 2011, 04:30 PM
Downwind3Zero is offline
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Looking at mine I wonder where you are putting the 6S battery? Got all the rods in the center. Using 2 3S lipos would work though.
Old Feb 09, 2011, 05:52 PM
SON OF PALEFACE is offline
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You answered your own question............
Old Feb 09, 2011, 07:13 PM
Downwind3Zero is offline
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Figured that What about the tail, seems to be the weak spot when it comes to stability. I'm thinking of ways to reinforce the narrow tail section - any thoughts?
Chris
Old Feb 09, 2011, 11:42 PM
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i'll be maidening mine when weather and work are both favourable

yes the tail is weak in the area the fuselage transitions into the tail, visibly moving around when just bench testing the motor.
if the maiden flight (coming soon) is successful, i'll be fibreglassing from behind the prop to the underside of the horizontal stabilizer.

the other issue is some reports of limited tail wag in the 1800mm version. Flying LOS this shouldnt be an issue, but i'm looking at flying fpv so wag is not welcomed. if mine has wag i'll be trying to at least reduce the wag by fitting a couple of "fins" on the horiz stab tips.

i'll be maidening mine with 2 x 4S 3000mah batts, eflite 25 (on the small side i know, but i seek flight duration rather than speed) and 11 x 8 x 2 bladed prop.

mongrel, if i understand your earlier question correctly, 2 batts can be wired up in parallel or series, resulting in either double the voltage or double the mah. in my case i'll be doubling the mah (to 6000mah). I was going to make my own cable but the LHS had them on the shelf... i relate to laziness
i may have misunderstood your question, if so, please disregard

my 2 batts are positioned either side of the cockpit, part way into the compartment behind the cockpit, with the servos in the centre, giving me the cog where the "manual" states at the servo wire groove.
Old Feb 10, 2011, 05:14 AM
Downwind3Zero is offline
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Good ideas. I might cut a groove along the fuselage/tail transition on the left side (possibly both sides) and run a CF rod there. Good luck with your maiden!
Chris
Old Feb 10, 2011, 06:11 AM
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Well, I've got mine in and am going to start glassing on Friday. I'm thinking I should go with a motor next size up for the added wieght of the FG. I'll start showing photos soon.
Old Feb 10, 2011, 02:38 PM
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I wouldn't think that the glass will add more than an ounce, maybe two at the most. I would be curious if you could fly it pre-glass to see the tail wag, then glass it and see if the tail wag is gone. The other Idea I had was to use a piece of brass tube with a sharpened edge and a drill to cut a hole from the rear that a .325" carbon tube will slip into. I did this on my second easystar, and the tail is much stiffer than stock.
Old Feb 10, 2011, 02:46 PM
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I like the idea of the rod or tube through the tail. There's a lot of good ideas for this bird.
Old Feb 10, 2011, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lupy View Post
I wouldn't think that the glass will add more than an ounce, maybe two at the most. I would be curious if you could fly it pre-glass to see the tail wag, then glass it and see if the tail wag is gone. The other Idea I had was to use a piece of brass tube with a sharpened edge and a drill to cut a hole from the rear that a .325" carbon tube will slip into. I did this on my second easystar, and the tail is much stiffer than stock.
I agree, the weight of fibreglass is almost insignificant compared to the weight of batteries for example, I doubt that'll be an issue... unless you are looking at an inch thick f'glass lay-up

I'll be maidening mine pretty much standard (no f'glass etc) to see what her characteristics are.
IMHO I really dont think fibreglassing the tail will make any change to the wag issue, but it should dramatically reduce the amount of vibration/ slop in the tail section. My reasoning is, the more i thinks about it, i reckon it's a combination of such a wide cockpit/ fuse, exacerbated with sponsons, combined with a short fuselage between motor to the tail... the wind goes around the width of the fuse then gets sucked back in to the prop... who knows what turbulance there is getting thrown back at the tail, and i reckon there'd be certains air speeds where that turbulance is getting messy- and with a short fuse, there's not enough length to allow the air to stabilize before the tail cops it...
I'm willing to try tail "fins", failing that i'll decide to either leave her as a LOS plane, or persevere and perhaps lengthen the fuse at the tail... but i'd prefer not to...

a mate of mine had suggested much the same sort of thing adding more cf inside the tail, but for me, seeing as there is already steel box in the tail (albeit in seperate pieces) i'm opting for f'glassing. Also i think even with additional cf rods, given how thin the tail is, this wont be enough to properly make the tail rigid... f'glassing is the only way to strengthen/ stiffen the tail sufficiently... my opinion only, of course


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