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May 18, 2010, 08:15 PM
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Build Log

JET TENG 90mm HAWK BUILD THREAD


Here it is guys! The new JET TENG Hawk! I was excited to see the preliminary photos of these back in August last year, discussions with the creator Andy were positive and Wemotecs test pilot was busy working out all the fine details. The result is very impressive and thanks go out to Eric in Germany for all the time he spent on this model.

So lets start with some photos of one of the actual models now sitting in our store room!

First up fuselage, really impressive is all one can say, this kit is simply mind blowing in the fit and finish of the parts.

Ducting looks great and the glasswork is beautiful, these guys are really taking their time to lay up the glass and make sure the parts come off the molds right.

Reinforcement is everywhere and epoxy has been used to assemble all the inner formers and components on both wing and fuse.

Wing fits to the fuse like a glove, the stepped saddle is perfectly shaped, everything just lines up.

Canopy is pre-assembled from a glass frame and vac formed screen, again it fits perfectly to the fuse and all spring loaded pins are prefitted. I had to ream the hole in the canopy side a tiny bit so the pin would slide home smoothly, you can see the fit in the photo.
Last edited by Extreme_RC; May 25, 2010 at 06:01 AM.
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May 18, 2010, 08:21 PM
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The elevator is something that blew me away when I saw the photos last year, here it is in white, some nice clear shots showing the construction and CNC machined bearing pivot. They are using a nylon shim to remove all play, its perfect.

Wing construction is fully built up and balsa sheeted from the looks of it, then skinned with epoxy glass, panel lines and minor detail all included.

Flaps are prehinged in the construction stage and are just beautifully made and finished as are the ailerons which are semi buried into the TE of the wing and run on 3 pin hinges. They look like well made hinges but I am sure you could swap them with robart of the same size if you felt so inclined

Retract cutouts are all done, carbon reinforcement is in place for the retract blocks, they have left the blocks out so you can mount your retracts to them first then fit them, trim/sand to seat them and epoxy them in. This is so guys using retracts like SpringAir etc can position the mounts to suit.
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May 18, 2010, 08:23 PM
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I will try and get my time organised so I can start the build this week. I am still weighing up power systems but have shortlisted a couple of our 8 cell setups, more to come as I get closer to that stage.
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May 19, 2010, 06:50 AM
Down Under
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im almost wishing I went for the T-45, the white really looks nice... want to swap Mark ;-)

j/k

couple of us aussie boys are doing this build at the same time, will be great to all contribute our ideas on this one! such a great jet, but still with a bit of work to do... all this info should be beneficial for others who will be following down the track..
May 19, 2010, 08:31 AM
Down Under
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC
I am still weighing up power systems but have shortlisted a couple of our 8 cell setups, more to come as I get closer to that stage.
thinking of power systems, now that scorpion are coming out with their range of inrunners, have you heard anything through the grapevine that may include them in the running for the hawk?
May 19, 2010, 08:28 PM
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To be honest I think the wemo/arc will still be the choice, the new 700 series from HET with their new fan would be my second choice, am expecting some of the 1680Kv motors in very soon and will test them on 8s too.
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Jun 08, 2010, 05:49 AM
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Ok I have finally found some time to get this Hawk started! First up I decided to do the rudder as its a part that needs cutting out and building if you want to install it.

I start by taping across the paint line where I will be cutting, then I get a new thin cutoff wheel on the dremel and my bash around metal ruler, place the ruler on the paint line, then cut through the glass and balsa using the ruler to maintain the line.

Do this either side and you end up with whats seen in the first pic.

Next up lightly sand rudder to square it up on a full sheet of 400 alloy oxide paper on a flat steel or glass bench.

Cut an insert as seen in the second pic that will go into the rudder cavity and create a LE, hinge line, and somewhere to put your horn through.

Do the same thing for the rudder stab iteslf, I had to grind out some of the epoxy in the lower section of the rudder stab so I had enough depth for the balsa insert.

Insert the pieces flush and then wick thin CA into the joins then hold down on a flat surface to close any gaps and set. Go over the joins with more thin CA to fill any gaps and make sure of your glue joints.

Sand the Rudder stabiliser TE square and flat, put aside.

Run tape down either side of the rudder itself, approx 3mm away from the cut edge, in a straight line. Mark the centre line of the balsa insert, and on the base of the rudder mark out a wedge shape with a pen so you have something to follow while sanding.

Go back to your full sheet of sandpaper and Sand the LEading Edge of your rudder into a sharp wedge as shown in the last photo. Take your time doing this, around 20 mins to do a neat job, check it often and vary the pressure points where you are holding the Rudder so you get an even wedge top to bottom.

Once this is done you can hinge the two together with 3 CA hinges or 3 Dubro pin hinges. I have chosen to use CA hinges as they are easy to install and give a neat finish, they are also much more user friendly in adjusting the position of your rudder up and down.

Just make sure to cut the slots dead central on both halves so the rudder is nicely lined up!

Once I have finished checking fit etc I seal the wood with thin CA, lightly rub over with 800 to take any roughness off then use some Tamiya white acrylic to paint the LE of the rudder. The Stab I will need to mix some paint to get the colour right, more on that later.
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Jun 13, 2010, 07:18 PM
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Ok rudder is finished, I experimented with dubro pin hinges but decided CA hinges give the neatest finish so filled the holes I made and refinished the surfaces for CA slots.

I cut a hole in the bottom of the fin with the dremel and grinding wheel and ground out the wooden brace so that the servo will slide up in the gap nice and tight.

Servo used is a Sapac MSD65M digital servo, you could use any small high quality metal gear gear servo. Wrap servo in masking tape and epoxy in to the gap once you have cut your servo horn slot.
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Jun 13, 2010, 07:43 PM
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Next up wings, aileron servos first. I made trays from 1mm plate with hardwood blocks in the corners for extra support.

Servos used are Hyperion ATLAS DS13 digital metal gear for all wing positions, I use these because they can be connected to the E-meter2 and all parameters set digitally. When you use rates in your Tx you essentially dumb down your resolution, the more you reduce the throw via the Tx the more you lower your resolution. More on this as we get to the servo setup...

Wrap the servos in masking tape and then epoxy them to the plates, epoxy the corner blocks in at the same time, good 5min epoxy is used for all the servos. You can see the assembled plates in the first photo, and where they fit into the wings. We will be gluing the servo assemblies straight into the wing itself.

Once the assemblies are done dry fit everything and work out your positions, and make sure you can put the covers down fully!! If you get the servo in the wrong position it will be too high at the shallow end of the wing cavity.

Cut the covers as shown in my photos, arrange your servos in the exact same position.

After epoxying the servo assemblies in I added some ply strips around the hole to support the covers. A long strip at the top as you can see in the photo, and some in the corners at the Trailing edge of the wing.

Clean up any glue after fitting the strips as you need a nice sharp corner for the covers to sit down into, then fit the covers and use clear cellotape to hold down. I dont like seeing screw heads all over my wing which is why I tape them in place.

I used 256 all thread rod and some sullivan gold clevices for the pushrods, I will get 256 nuts and then locktite the rods completely once final position is determined.

The stock rods & clevices that come with the model are 440 but are quite long and would require the actual clevices to be shortened in order to fit correctly and have the aileron horn in the correct position.

Looking at the completed photo you can see where the aileron horn sits, it should be positioned so that its top hole is in line with the pivot point of the hinge.

Make sure you mirror image the Aileron servos!! IE horns facing towards the wing tips on both sides!

Last photo shows where to bore your holes for running your wiring, I used the 10mm grinding stone on the dremel and gently drove it through the wing vertically, gives a nice neat hole.

Next up flaps!
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Jun 14, 2010, 07:36 AM
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Jun 14, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Have you got any estimates of the AUW yet? These models seem to run heavier than the FlyFly Hawk despite being smaller.

What landing gear struts will you use. Will you be able to find a tandem nose wheel the T-45 has instead of the single nose wheel of the British conterpart?

Thanks for posting this build.

Kelvin
Jun 15, 2010, 03:00 AM
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You cannot compare a composite model of this caliber to a flyfly Hawk! This kit is scale, if you check the measurements you will find it almost spot on with the real thing, the flyfly has a massively oversize wing and is designed as a parkflyer. Even so most flyfly Hawks come in at 3-4kg anyway.

Foam vs glass? no comparison, the glass model will always win hands down for flight characterstics in my mind. If you want a really classy aircraft that flies superbly out of the box buy a composite or built up model. While I love the large foamies for what you can achieve with them, this is a big step up.

Weight is not an issue with models like this, 4kg is obviously no problem as can be seen from the videos currently showing. My little Sapac 70mm Hawk is 1950 grams AUW and still flies superbly, lands pretty easy too with flaps deployed.
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Jun 16, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Is adding the fuctional rudder up to the builder??? It would be nice if this step was already done for you, as I need some practice with modifing it myself.
Jun 16, 2010, 06:07 PM
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You dont need to have a functional rudder to fly the model, I am flying the Sapac 70mm without having cut the rudder out, no issue for general flight at all, performs great.

I will be offering build services for things like the rudder and the complete aircraft for Australian customers, and I have spoken to the factory about the rudder, hopefully they will take on my idea to cut it out and block it up with balsa, would be very simple for them to do, then all you need to do is cut and fit your servo and horn.
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Jun 17, 2010, 02:03 AM
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Here is a quick photo of the rudder in place, I fooled around with pin hinges but didnt like the end result so filled the holes and went with CA hinges instead, looks much neater.

Will post up the flap install later tonight.
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