Air hogs titan glider bashing/rc conversion thread!!! - Page 11 - RC Groups
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Jun 25, 2010, 10:03 AM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
Looks terrific Prime8. I plan to make mine a twin-boom pusher too. I have the Hobby Lobby Lynx and it's an awesome flier -- flies like it's on rails -- so this should likewise make a great park-jet.

I was surprised to see that you cut the wing to sandwich the booms instead of slot the booms to slide over the wing... but maybe the large wingtips won't fit through the slot, so this works even better. You should sand the edges of the booms and fins smooth before you glue it all together. Also, put a couple of bamboo skewers in each boom so they don't flex as much.

Keep up the good work... she's looking swell!
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Jun 25, 2010, 11:56 AM
Registered User
SNice's Avatar
wow!!!! She looks great so far!!!!!!! So excited!!!! I can't pass a target anymore without making sure they have a few titans in stock!! Lol. I feel like we are the only ones buying them!!!! Lol

like I said -- looking good -- I admire your building planning and skills!!! I'm finally at the point where the aesthetics are a little more important. I'm doing more planning as opposed to my usual "just get'er in the air cuttin' n' chuckin'!!" lol

make sure u do a glide test before u load her up!!! When I was building my funjet bash-- my initial glide testing had a major nose down attitude! It was only corrected by adjusting the canard angle. If u notice -- even on the stock airframe -- the elevator is angled up quite a bit (more than u would think) for level flight. good luck!!!

Originally Posted by Prime_8
a whole bunch more done .

the wings are hot glued onto the wing hatch .
It bolts up nice and firm .

( i will show inside wing area later )

as it is + the stuff left to go on ~11oz.
but proly finish up at 9oz after sanding and shaping of those bits .
motor & esc = 3.4 oz
+ 4.1 for a 11.1 volt 1300 mah 30C lipo.
+ 1.3 oz for servos (4 of em)
19.8 oz

so ~2oz to play with for radio gear . LOL

teh motor with one of the props i'm planning on makes 22 oz of thrust @ 19a & 60mph (by prop pitch speed)

the other prop makes 28oz of thrust , at 23A

esc is good for 30a continuious and 35a burst (10 sec) .
i know we look for better than 50% T/W , but i would like 1:1 or better

never know when a blast could save the day. so at 50 % throtle should be a nice fly
Jun 25, 2010, 12:19 PM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
Originally Posted by SNice
If u notice -- even on the stock airframe -- the elevator is angled up quite a bit (more than u would think) for level flight. good luck!!!
Well, the stock H-stab can be mounted both ways... right-side-up for level flight and up-side-down for loops. Even in level flight, the H-stab has quite a bit of negative incidence so it will "flare" as it loses speed for a soft landing. Also, keep in mind that "hand-tossed" flight speeds are significantly slower than the soon-to-be "powered flight" speeds... so she'll likely climb if you keep that much negative incidence. Ideally, I think you only want about 1-2degrees of decalage between the main wing and H-stab. But by all means -- toss-test it first.

I've built a couple of these from the older Guillow's foam chuck gliders and they are the same way.
Jun 25, 2010, 10:59 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
yeah , I'm a bit dubious about canards. & how i will mount them

ie cut with a fixed portion or whole surface moves. LOL ( i think i want a gyro .. LOL )

seems whole surface moving is best way form what i can see , and watching hours of net video on them & also watching how canards can improve high delta flight.

- rite now I'm a bit mad at the pink foam , i wish it was blue foam . this pink foam is wicked resilient , and only respects a hot wire or knife. but it is more flexible that i remember it being ( then i made by boats from 1.5 inch board ) .
I wish i could get some depron locally & easy. but no. LOL

any how it will be good to deplete my old supplies on these x-plane monsters .LOL

SNice , get it in the air / just chuck it , is not a bad way either , if your working form a good hunch . It helps keep it fun , if you can handle a few "epic fails" along the way.

I was used to built up balsa wings . man i just about puked when i would break one , especially if it was a maiden . LOL

this foam building is way more fun . LOL

but that blasted pink foam , LOL hard to sand and it will need a spar like runner in each boom.
the sort of wiggle LOL and that is no good .

as far a glide test , i may just do a quick boom-less chuck with just canards . LOL
I think a version with mini booms or pods that have the rudders , and rely on canards for pitch . may be mix spoilerons into the mess .
I'm sure it will be faster ( less drag ) without booms .
there is enough dihedral that rudders should work fine without ailerons , but hmm , just seems wrong to not have em on a fast plane .LOL

and from what i have seen i hope i can get used to the speed . LOL
all the mod planes seem to rip along , and the power systems i plan to use should be enough to do rolling take offs , touch and go's. i love doing them (used to way back when)

also was thinking if i mount the motor higher i have less to worry about with the prop hitting ground on landings. 8 to 7 inch prop , could require landing gear. LOL
but i did plan on piano wire skids at min to protect prop.

but pusher config will protect the motor from "forced landings" that could damage the shaft .

wonder what the craziest mod has been? LOL flying wing ?
a reversed sweep would be cool but , not possible with stock wing ( without a shed load of sanding the wings down & prolly have to WBPU glass em then as they would be very thin , but very fast .

W'71 , yeah i have a spruce spar for each boom , I original wa sgoing to make it so wing past the booms came off.
( still may ) but cuts as shift gives me .5 inch of wing span again . I may also pay with diff boom designes .
the booms will be rounded , but i tell ya that pink foam i got is tough , it kills my exacto & i have to keep sharpening it , snading is just hard as the poam resists the sanding . LOL
but my hot wire cuts it like i was a light saber .. LOL
i have to make a trimming jig to guide my hot wire over tails to make them an areofoil like shape , and a bit more trimming .
the pink foam would be good for laminating and makinga a fuse out of from scratch , but at .5" it's a bit flimsy .

i wish i had depron .. lol
Last edited by Prime_8; Jun 25, 2010 at 11:11 PM.
Jun 25, 2010, 11:13 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Originally Posted by SNice
If u notice -- even on the stock airframe -- the elevator is angled up quite a bit (more than u would think) for level flight. good luck!!!
This is an optical illusion created by the slant on the center root so it can be inverted.

I placed a straight piece of CF strip in line with the wing chord line and extended it aft under the horizontal when in the normal glide position. It is virtually in line with the wing root chord!
Jun 26, 2010, 03:03 AM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
well that is handy to know .
I was looking at aft part of fuse , it appears to bend down .
or thta is if you take off all the parts the tail looks like it bends down .
but in level flight , it's level and it's the nose that looks lower . That's prolly how it glides so well out of the bag.

I made some ply templates of it's areofoil , for foam cutting later . if i want to try some wacky stuff , i can just hotwire cut from laminated pink foam . could be fun to try diff wings on the default / stock body setup . like a higher aspect ratio and less sweep.
forward swept is what i was thinking . but that is for way later.

- going to wally has become funny . wife gose off to makup and cloths , and i check the quality of the titans inthe bins for a good one . I have found some have been sitting on thier tail too long , while all itakes is some boiling water to remove sfufs and dents , i sorta suck sitting and holding a tail to un bend it . LOL (bloddy memory foam )
Jun 26, 2010, 07:00 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
just a quick shot of how i cut my hatches . when i take time to cut it clean and not just by free hand . ( i do halow the insides of hatches by freehand though. )
( masking tape and steel zip ties used a wire guide in the shot
Jun 27, 2010, 01:40 AM
Registered User
HobokenHobbiesNJ's Avatar
Originally Posted by Prime_8
just a quick shot of how i cut my hatches . when i take time to cut it clean and not just by free hand . ( i do halow the insides of hatches by freehand though. )
( masking tape and steel zip ties used a wire guide in the shot
Prime8 , this is looking great so far. I really wanna see this up in the air...cant wait. I hope you put in something to make the canopy a little stronger because from personal experience, ahemmm cutting the canopy like that will most certainly break the nose on a dive. so on my next edf version, which is flying as of in a weekishh after the busy week passes by - i cut the canopy on the top only. And added sticks to reinforce the front.

Looking great already ...did you place the order for electronics yet?
Jun 27, 2010, 03:20 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
My taileron-only version (no rudder) is coming along. Hoping to get at least 1 rps roll rate, but doubt it's very probable with stock wings. I'll maiden with stock wings, and go from there.
<EDIT1> OK, I finished my conversion. I was able to stow all the electronics in the fuse, except for the taileron servos. I had a perfect afternoon to maiden the plane today. My AUW as right at 16 oz., and the Grayson Microjet V3 outrunner develops about 18 oz. of thrust with a 3S lipo, so vertical performance is available.

It was a successful maiden flight... pretty uneventful. The plane flew nicely... about what I expected, but fell just a notch short of what I had hoped for in the roll rate and top speed areas. I think by trimming the odd wing tips and knocking down the dihedral, I'll gain a little speed and roll rate for better "parkjet" performance. For a $10 airframe and just two servos for taileron control, this plane is a hoot!

I captured the nearly 17 minute maiden flight with my cap cam, and edited it down to about 6 minutes.

Video here

<EDIT2> OK, time to update this post. I clipped 5-3/8 in. off each wing tip of my taileron Titan in an attempt to get both more speed and higher roll rate. It was successful on both counts, yet it still has a very slow, flat glide. The following video shows some excerpts from the test flight, with a PIP showing the taileron action. I will most likely remove most of the dihedral as a final mod to get a more uniform and axial roll.
Clipped Titan (2 min 29 sec)
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jul 09, 2010 at 01:03 AM. Reason: added new video with clipped wing
Jun 27, 2010, 09:01 AM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
cool stuff Tom

Vyas, have my list but have to wait till i have the cash . ( very soon ) LOL
see i need the works . motor esc lipo & charger ( min) + conectors & a watt meter and 4 servos ( 15$ for 4 is fine) .

but just waitting for payday LOL .( few bills to kill first )

but should do at end of month , ( then add a few days , everything takes longer to ship to NL )

as far as strenght , i could use someof tem thin plywood to add some strenght back . & or cut the cover and hot glue some bits back .

so got side tracked with a idea , lol a clear cockpit . (v1 just having a look )
this would require wood support to be doubled up front & more wood trimmed from glass frame.

but this study as prompted me to think of mounting canards up near wher SNice did rather than down mid nose . 2 reasons .
1 if it where a real craft they would block pilots view of ground . ( = block FPV )
2 the nose is not so strong there , either glue bits back or use wood to strenghten.
~3 , if higher like SNice's i can use 1 servo for elevator & ailerons .
Jun 27, 2010, 04:25 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
so went out for a chuck test ( i like stuff that flys even when 1/2 built )

left the soda botle canopy on . LOL

needs about 10 deg up from matching main wing.

that's fine because i figure tail booms will counter all the nose weight .

i want it to glide , even with-out power. If it can do that , then i can fly longer.

you can see how i had to pass a dowel through for canards . & i put a spar under rite to the nose . ther is a spar on top too.

they are a tad lower than where SNice , put his . and still along the idea i had for mine.
Jun 28, 2010, 12:46 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
Ok the update SNice was looking for ... booms, shaped and temp tacked in
place with hot glue ( epoxy later ).

Yep it is sitting on it's tail surfaces in the 2nd shot . They are very strong .
the pink foam is very strong over short distnaces . add soem wood and very strong .

it floats / glides with still a touch of nose heavy .

I may not add a active rear elivator , only a trim surface. (still pondering that one ) Leaving picth the canards, but that means less pitch controll at low speeds , so prolly not.
Jun 28, 2010, 01:04 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Very neat looking mod, Prime_8. I had planned to shorten my wings on my extreme taileron version, probably starting just outside the TE step as you did. Nice to see how it would look. I'd also shear off the foam step out there to make a smooth wing. BTW, have you thought about the possibility of tapering the fuse at the aft end to get more and smoother airflow into the small prop? I made a pusher out of a GWS EStarter once, and had to do this even with an 8 in. prop to get better thrust, less noise, etc.

As an aside, I don't know how many have looked at those wing tips closely, but on mine the LE is perfectly straight all the way to the wing tips, but the TE has built in anhedral starting at the step and progressing to the tip. The result is the TE drops down slightly, increasing the angle of incidence slightly and adding a bit of flap-like action at the tips! I thought I had a deformed wing, but both have exactly the same design. It flies fine, but just adds lift and drag at the tips... something I don't need for my intended "parkjet" bash with only tailerons for control.
Jun 28, 2010, 01:14 PM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
I like the twin booms... but not sure if the canards will do anything but add drag... certainly you don't want the canards trimmed with that much incidence to compensate for being nose-heavy.

Looking at the top-view, it almost seems like the booms could continue forward all the way to the canards... a weird Formula-1 race-car look to it. If you keep the canards, I'd make them fixed, and put an elevator on the back for pitch control... much more reliable with the prop pushing air over the control surface.
Jun 28, 2010, 01:30 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
yeah was just thinking . I would make canards semi fixed. ( a small controll horn se to a small chunk of bailing wire , so i can ajust thier AA/pitch easily .

Tom yep , i will be working the tail area , & had thought of making a upper offset .
That is a 1/2 pod like bump near top of rear mount plate. then i would dove tail in the bottom of the end of fuse.
this woudl give a + 3 " from bottom of plane . or only a inch or so of prop may hang down below . that thrust line would still be very low & i can use the leftover tail bits to make it .

but looks liek carard wili be semi fixed unitill i either add a servo , and link to flaps or regular elivator .

- flaps or spoilers.
i figure that TE setion of wing between boom and fuse could house / be a good air brake / spoiler , or even a flap . i have a few ideas for that . ( but will start as 3 ch only , then add ailerons )

- note if all is trim as it is now with only a touch of canard up . it glides ok . that tail has made a bif dif' over yesterday's chuck .
cant wait to see if i have enough to order what i need .. soon .
( i need a start-up kit , charger & lipo & then the usuals . but that means it will be cheaper for me on subsiquent builds )
i will weight it soon . ( cringes , and wonders if plane need to go on a diet . LOL )

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