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May 09, 2010, 12:40 AM
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kdahlhaus's Avatar
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Pat Tritle Eastbourne Build


I started the Pat Tritle Eastbourne kit tonight. You can get the kit from Hobby Lobby or Northeast Sailplane Products.

Specs: 43.5" wingspan, 321 sq. in. wing area, 18-21 oz. flying weight.

If all goes well it will look something like this:



There is a nice video of an Eastbourne. I am almost positive it was made from the same plans:
Model Airtech Plans Eastbourne 1913 WWI Flight (3 min 25 sec)




This is my first real balsa build. I expect to learn a lot (hopefully through mistakes that aren't critical).

The first thing I learned tonight is to align and clean-up all of the wing ribs before assembling any of them.

The instructions call for gluing the outer and 2nd inner rib to the spars first. I did that and then realized the die cuts vary considerably throughout the set of ribs. So I cleaned up the rest of the ribs. The outer rib that I didn't check ended up being ok, the inner one has the forward spar notch a bit rearward. It's not very much, the other ribs didn't bind when placed on the spars, and it was already glued in place, so I just went with it.
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May 09, 2010, 01:05 AM
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the one in the video seemed to have more dihedral than the one in the picture from HL.

nice looking plane..does it have any bracing wires underneath the wings?

I like the magnetic board--i use the same thing to keep things straight and square.

if you keep posting sub assemblies im sure someone will chime in if they see something thats not right..

Its almost like an Eindecker..you gotta like the way it looks!!

Have you planned the placement of the motor and batteries yet? i read the hobby lobby ad and it talked about a speed

400 and nicad batteries--with such a short nose im wondering if the plan should be to get some weight up front!!
May 09, 2010, 02:45 AM
North East England
Good luck with your build - in my book, balsa and ply is the ONLY way to build model aeroplanes

Can I sugget that you check the fit of EVERY piece before you glue it; make sure it's a good close fit and trim it if needed. Kits today seem be be much better in quality than when I bought them but it never hurts to check first. Don't assume the plan is totally accurate (especially both wing halves - sometimes the printing process leaves errors) and that each piece will be a perfect fit. Test fit each piece first before using that glue.

Also use white PVA glue for the bulk of the work, as it dries with flexibility and gives you time to make adjustments.

Keep the pictures coming, always nice to see how others do it.
May 09, 2010, 08:12 AM
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portablevcb's Avatar
The ad said sp400 and NiCd's cause that's all there was when that thing was designed
May 09, 2010, 08:27 AM
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kdahlhaus's Avatar
It has functional rigging on both sides of the wing. The instructions repeatedly warn that the rigging is required, which is cool.

Yes, the other thing I learned is that I'm not a CA person for this kind of work. The innermost and outermost ribs were CA'd, but I hated working with it, so I followed SgtDirt's advice and switched over to Elmer's wood glue (he uses Titebond, but I already have Elmers).

Wanted to have a better feel for the fuselage before working out the motor and battery. Would like to avoid a geared drive due to the noise, maybe a blue-wonder will work, have to run the numbers.

Even with a nicad and brushed motor, the plans say to feel free to go hog-wild detailing the dummy engine as it can use the weight up front.

RedBaron, yup, I agree with you about checking every piece first. Thanks for the advice re. the plans too.
May 09, 2010, 08:55 AM
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Dan Parson's Avatar
Wow, that one in the video is a real floater, looks like you have a nice slow flyer in your future.
May 09, 2010, 12:20 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
That is a nice floater and I wouldn't mind building one myself, But the one in the video seems to have an awful lot of Dehedral (spelling?). It almost seems as though he has the riggin a bit too tight. It just seemed a bit pitchy to me the way the wings were. I wonder how it would fly with a little more level wing.
May 09, 2010, 12:37 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
There is another build thread of my son's Easbourne. It used a fairly heavy Speed 400 6volt brush motor in an English made Mini Olympus gearbox which is no longer avialable. You may want to use an equivalent Hi-Max geared brushless motor for an easy fit in the dummy Anzani crankcase. Maybe a Hobby Lobby esskay 400XT outrunner would fit okay and would be a good power choice using a 9x5 GWS direct drive prop and a 1300mah 2S or 3S lipo placed right behind the firewall to get the cg right. A model like this really needs a pilot with helmet goggles and a scarf. BTW, be very careful with covering and gently shrinking covering on the wings to avoid bowing them into an exaggerated dihedral. the rigging thread on the bottom helps prevent tendency for wings to bow upward.
We used Litespan or Coverlite polyester antique linen-like covering that requires Balsaloc or Balsarite painted for application. It is light yet strong but requires practice and careful application . Apply it snugly and smoothly and shrink it very slightly to avoid warping of the thin wing structure. The model should fly very slowly and "stately" like a Bleriot, etc. and land like a feather. Not good in gusty/windy conditions, great in the calm morning or evening air with sun shining through the covering.
Last edited by E-Challenged; May 09, 2010 at 12:46 PM.
May 09, 2010, 01:48 PM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdahlhaus

Even with a nicad and brushed motor, the plans say to feel free to go hog-wild detailing the dummy engine as it can use the weight up front.
is that a technical term?

lookin' Good Kev!
what are your plans for covering? i have some doculam you can try.
May 09, 2010, 01:51 PM
Suspended Account
for the wood finishes, you can try one of those "touch up" markers (unless you want to use stain).
May 09, 2010, 03:46 PM
Registered User
one can only imagine how much better it will fly without the weight of the original nicads and speed 400...

Charlie you had a good point--thats all that was available then, but how much of a weight difference is that? it must be HUGE..

I still have an Eindecker ive been meaning to build--maybe this will get me going!!??

Keep up the good work and let us know how its going--this one is a keeper!!

That seems like a good plan--once you have the open frame built, it could be balanced roughly and then cover it?
Last edited by ZRS4; May 09, 2010 at 03:53 PM.
May 09, 2010, 05:49 PM
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portablevcb's Avatar
A big weight difference. Probably several ounces anyway. Problem is if you need all that to balance anyway..... You can always just use a bigger LiPo and have it fly for a couple of hours Keep the tail LIGHT!
May 10, 2010, 05:17 AM
Registered User
kdahlhaus's Avatar
Wow, great to see there's some interest in this plane. I love these early planes.


Not much done last night, just glued on the leading edge.

The instructions say to pin the wing end to the trailing edge and align the front with the top of the first spar. Doing so leaves the rear spar barely in contact with the wing end as shown in the pictures. I thought of gluing some scrap balsa to the bottom of the rear spar to provide a solid joint with the wing end and then shaping the top of the spar.

Any thoughts on this? I'm curious as to how it should be finished and if I did something wrong.
Last edited by kdahlhaus; May 10, 2010 at 05:23 AM.
May 10, 2010, 05:28 AM
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kdahlhaus's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtdirt
for the wood finishes, you can try one of those "touch up" markers (unless you want to use stain).
That's a good idea. That would give many color options. I have been thinking of trying Folk art maple stain from Pat Catans:




or perhaps oak:





I'll see what happens with these on some scrap balsa.
Last edited by kdahlhaus; May 10, 2010 at 05:39 AM.
May 10, 2010, 05:39 AM
Registered User
kdahlhaus's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtdirt
is that a technical term?

lookin' Good Kev!
what are your plans for covering? i have some doculam you can try.
Thanks Jack. I'm not sure what to use at this point.

Looking for something lightweight and with minimal shrinkage. It would be nice if it had a fabric-like look and cream color without the need to paint.

The instructions suggest Litespan or Airspan, and Coverlite was suggested in another Eastbourne build thread.


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