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are you sliding the battery right up into the motorbox? I haven't had an addiction X for a while and from memory I glued foam blocks to the internal sides of the motorbox so I could slide the battery as far forward, and on an angle I think (not parallel to the battery tray)... with the right size foam blocks there was no need for a battery strap - the fit was so snug with the pressure of the foam that it stayed put fine
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I don't know how you have to add weight or put your battery that far forward. Adding weight especially in the nose is never a good idea. Mine is in the tray and perfect. I have written about nose weight a lot on my how to fly 3d thread. But I think something is not right for you to need to add weight. I would use a bigger battery. Weight closer to spar is not as bad. plus more flight time. Adding weight to nose decreases performance, battery life slightly and so on.
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Continued... Weight on the nose creates a false balance. Just imagine you putting a 3lb weight on the nose. Then put a large weight on the tail you would have a balanced aircraft. How would it fly? would be horrible. When nose down, would be horribly nose heavy and the same when nose up would be tail heavy. it needs balance as the nose or tail drops a bit too. Even with small amounts of weight, this is the case to a smaller degree and degrades the performance through maneuvers. Make sense? Are you using all PA gear?
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Many of us have had to add weight to get close to recommended CG. And this is with reccomended servos, lipo, motor and ESC. With rudder servo in motor box. No spinner installed.
I added 9 grams and ran with lipo pushed all the way forward. Balanced and flew great... till this mornings brownout. Mike, why would you use an example that requires weight added to the tail, when we are having to add weight to the nose to counter a tail heavy airframe? I’m A very careful builder, following procedure and best practices , my Addy X was tail heavy requiring added weight, not what I expected from this model. |
Last edited by vebbysson; Dec 15, 2018 at 08:48 PM.
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The gear other than the battery is all PA gear, maybe not the servos, from what I’m told they were larger than the standard hitcec ones. The way I see it you need to add less weight the further forward you put it. You suffer the penalty of the nose having more inertia. Certainly I can use heavier batteries. I wish I didn’t have to add weight. I dislike doing so. On the other hand not adding weight and having the cg back at 140 or 145 isn’t going to be great either. Put another 3 flights in today but still in 20 mph (12 mph) wind. So still no real chance to get things sorted properly. I can tell flying inverted that the cg shouldn’t go further back and in fact would benefit from being a touch more forward. I like the plane as of day 2. |
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LOL nice going Yufasa.. what happened, an inverted harrier get too low?
Man, you're gonna love the AMR60... took her out for a spin last night... wow is all I can say - It takes a little getting used too as well though being a bipe.. there's a couple of slightly different characteristics on occasion |
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Put in another 6 flights today in much less wind. Next job is to mix out roll coupling in knife edge. My 3D skills, always average have deteriorated since I focused on f5j and f5b but I hope the addiction can improve them.
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Hinges
I'm about to start building my ADX.
Has anyone use 1/8 robart pin hinges? |
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I pondered using robart hinges on my ADXL, but, with the see-through covering, any sawdust in the flight or control surfaces will show up. That sort of hinging is typically done prior to hinging the plane. Plus, the rudder is only 1/8" thick, so robarts couldn't be used on it. I ended up just using the supplied CA hinges.
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Not sure what technique the person used who complained about alignment, but all you have to do is flex the hinge one time up and down (while still wet with epoxy) and all the pins align themselves perfectly. You will never have any binding. |
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