It's a rendering of the nose gear/battery tray assy.
It may look like a photo on your BB.

I received some new parts from A.S.

There is also a new Transition Duct with "T" nuts for assy. More on that later.

I did some work on the rudder assy tonite.

The rudder servo is a Hi-Tec HS65HB.
I wanted to get it in there with as little cutting as possible. A.S. said He did his similar to this.
I cut a hole in the bottom of the vertical stab, just big enough to get the servo in there with the control arm (Previously centered) and drilled for the 2-56 control rod (.072 dia).
I used a "sharpie" to spread the stab a bit to aid in inserting the servo.
The small hole for the control may need to be opened up a bit later. (for max rudder throw). It still needs a little cleaning up. but this is how mine will be.
The control arm is again a DUBRO 2-56 thd'd on one end, control rod with Kwik link clevis (top quality, spring tempered steel) the servo end has been trimmed a "z" bend added.
I'm gloing to glue the servo in with RTV Silicone on both sides. (Easily removable, in the event that it ever needs to be replaced)

Here is the removable Battery Tray assy (easy access for those who may wish to place components under it)
The laser cut parts will have two locating tabs on the aft battery tray former.

looking good

Your parts are looking good.

I gotta stay focused on thing.
Hopfully maiden in two weeks.

i used a hs55 servo and it fit behind the the spar.the mount tabs were also removed ,and i used silicon also to mount it . we did some knife edge testing ,but i think we need the c/g moved back to get the most out of it ,plus maybe use the inner hole on the control arm for more deflection.

Originally Posted by AIR SALLY

i used a hs55 servo and it fit behind the the spar.the mount tabs were also removed ,and i used silicon also to mount it . we did some knife edge testing ,but i think we need the c/g moved back to get the most out of it ,plus maybe use the inner hole on the control arm for more deflection.

Or fly faster!!!

Rodger,

The inboard control arm hole is the one I now have it in. I also put a longer arm on the servo to increase the throw.
Seems that it should knive edge with the CG in the proper location, with enough throw. I have +/- 30* now.
Oh hey, I just realized that with the stab glued in place, the servo is not going to be removable anyway. A hatch could be cut by those who prefer one.

I still need this info, when you get a chance:

• The neutral position for the elevator. (the leading edge, with respect to the fuse parting line would be a good reference point)
• Aileron throws (Hi/low rate...or just high rate if thats what your using)
• Mid Flap angle
• Full flap angle
• CG position

Rodger,
I'm about to attach the vertical with 30 min expoxy.
Any comments before it's too late?

yeah line up the parting line of the tail cone with the center afterburner panel line .the pointed nose of the vert under the intake scoop for the after burner need to be slighty left of the parting line ...i thought i marked your fuse.look close there should be a mark of some kind.i used 5min epoxy as it is easier to heat up and remove if ness. but 30 would work too ,just harder to remove if needed.you could put some lighting hole that match the one in the vert so you can open the ab scoop and the air will vent.

Originally Posted by AIR SALLY

yeah line up the parting line of the tail cone with the center afterburner panel line .the pointed nose of the vert under the intake scoop for the after burner need to be slighty left of the parting line ...i thought i marked your fuse.look close there should be a mark of some kind.i used 5min epoxy as it is easier to heat up and remove if ness. but 30 would work too ,just harder to remove if needed.you could put some lighting hole that match the one in the vert so you can open the ab scoop and the air will vent.

Yeah, I noticed that the front parting line was off center. I opened up the 3/16 hole for the spar to the side just a touch. (the spar will still be in contact with the rear fuse former).
I'll open up the scoop, and use 5 min epoxy.

Thx

a little more work on the vertical......

I added some lightening holes to the fuse. There will be a matching pattern on the stab base

Got the scoop opened up.

There was a bit of a void under the rudder, so I placed some clear tape on the outside and added a thin layer of Epoxy/microballons to the inside, then removed the tape.

very nice work . the hollow spot at the base of the rudder is normal .it will be up to the builder to fill that in if they want . i left mine open ,but i like how you worked it .

i got one of jwings control surfaces cut out and working ,just need to do the other .
i also sent a E-mail to callie at Callie graphics to order some decals for the kits. hope i hear back soon.