Originally Posted by StarHopper44

All this brings up another 'element' -- generically, what is a "safe" operating temperature for an ESC?

I know we've seen plenty about overheating 'em....and failures caused by (image of the insulation melted off my stock 20A 'Blue Label' in mind ), but don't recall ever seeing anything in here about any kind of temperature you wanta keep 'em below! IE, at what point do you 'know' you should seriously consider going to a higher amp-rated one?

And hey! -- now I gotta buy a new 20A 'Blue' for my EagleTree to test against my 'stilted' mod. Joy Joy Joy! *LMAO*

(It's a sickness.)

SH from what I have seen AJ post the answer is pretty much what jrjr said, if its too hot to handle upgrade.

Dont get me started on the sickness with this hobby, my card is completely stressed out thats why I have started using Genes card

Originally Posted by ozair

SH I definitely want to buy one but like you I also don't understand how this buddy code works, can anyone explain how it works?

Here's details about buddycodes and how they work:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1439534

Basically, if you buy something at full price, you might get a buddycode for it for a discount that lasts 2 weeks, then expires. You share that code with anyone. Anyone who uses the code will get the discount, and you will get some bonus points that you can use on a future order.

VERY IMPORTANT: buddycodes only work if you are already logged into the hobbyking site, then click the buddycode link. The price will have a '*' next to it. Also buddycodes are specific to a warehouse, so USA buddycodes will not work elsewhere, etc.

Whenever I'm placing an order to HK, I take a look at the online buddycode engines to see if there's a discount available on the items I'm buying. Check the 'Hot Deals' forum for URL to engines, and posted buddycodes.

Originally Posted by Papo_60

OK guys, I completed about 95% of my SkyS build log. I have it on my newly created blog. (Just click on Papo_60 to the left.) One would almost think I new what I was doing.... One thing I did is to creat several blog entries so comments to any particular build area would be confined to that post??? If that makes sense..

Anyway, if interested, please take a look & make any comments in the blog area. Especially if you find any corrections that need to be made &/or additions that you think would be helpful to people doing a similar build.

I plan to add a couple more pictures later today of the coupleted assembly & also complete the write up for the bind & range test.... But other than that I believe this build log is complete.. Hope you enjoy & let me know what you think.

Again though, any corrections or suggestions you come across, please use the comment section in the Blog. Don't want to clutter up this forum with such stuff.... TIA
Ron

Sterling job Ron. Just had a quick look at your build blog and its one of the best I have seen, the documentation is outstanding. Well done. I have just started building my Bixler and this will help.

Originally Posted by Gordks

Great data! I like the way the Eagle Tree application formats the graphs.

How did you measure the servo current? Does that require a special sensor? If that data is accurate, we are certainly worrying way too much about the BEC being overtaxed. Never even got above half an amp!

Gord

There's a servo current sensor you attach to the logger. For the BEC, I put it on the ESC channel, for the UBEC, I connected it on the UBEC going to the receiver. I do remember that I forgot to change it once or twice but that was for the APC prop, if I remember correctly, so looking at the stock prop values, that should be accurate. The most I saw was 1A in my other data points where I moved the servos like mad.

Originally Posted by messir

Today my bixler crashed coz wigs jump from slot. As result, brocken carbon tube. Pls guys, tell me which diameter this tube so I will buy new one.

Sorry to hear of your broken tube and resulting crash.

I believe the Bixler uses a 6mm OD wing tube. I reinforced mine by sliding and gluing a smaller .188" tube inside the stock one.

Were you using any method for holding your wings in like velcro on the wing root ends or the rubber band method? If not, you may want to look into doing so.

Good luck!

Aeronca

Originally Posted by messir

Today my bixler crashed coz wigs jump from slot. As result, brocken carbon tube. Pls guys, tell me which diameter this tube so I will buy new one.

6mm diameter tube is needed and recommend you reinforce it by sliding 4mm tube inside it.

Originally Posted by ozair

SH I definitely want to buy one but like you I also don't understand how this buddy code works, can anyone explain how it works?

If I can buy it at the price you indicate then I would be interested as it would be like free shipping on the price I can get for which is $ 48-.

Tell me does HK also sell the sensors, link please.

Someone buys it, then in your previous order screen, there is a little two person icon you click and it gives you the link to get it for cheaper. If someone buys it using the link (make sure you are logged in first before you go to the link), then you get the discount off your full price order and your "buddy" gets it at the same discounted price. You only get the benefit yourself once though. I helped a few people get the logger, OSD, and a GPS for about $180 shipped from HK.

Originally Posted by protocol

Here's details about buddycodes and how they work:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1439534

Basically, if you buy something at full price, you might get a buddycode for it for a discount that lasts 2 weeks, then expires. You share that code with anyone. Anyone who uses the code will get the discount, and you will get some bonus points that you can use on a future order.

VERY IMPORTANT: buddycodes only work if you are already logged into the hobbyking site, then click the buddycode link. The price will have a '*' next to it. Also buddycodes are specific to a warehouse, so USA buddycodes will not work elsewhere, etc.

Whenever I'm placing an order to HK, I take a look at the online buddycode engines to see if there's a discount available on the items I'm buying. Check the 'Hot Deals' forum for URL to engines, and posted buddycodes.

Thanks Protocol

Originally Posted by healthyfatboy

Someone buys it, then in your previous order screen, there is a little two person icon you click and it gives you the link to get it for cheaper. If someone buys it using the link (make sure you are logged in first before you go to the link), then you get the discount off your full price order and your "buddy" gets it at the same discounted price. You only get the benefit yourself once though. I helped a few people get the logger, OSD, and a GPS for about $180 shipped from HK.

So how is this going to work with SH, he has already purchased it, how do I get the discount when I go to purchase it, and how do I get his buddy code?

Originally Posted by healthyfatboy

You only get the benefit yourself once though.

Ah, didn't know that, thx!

Originally Posted by Gordks

Thanks for pointing out that 'max hold' feature Ron. It makes that scale a lot more attractive. I didn't see it mentioned on Harbor Freight or even in the manual. They might sell more of those things if they would list that feature! Nor do they mention the resolution or minimum reading. Do you have any idea of approximately what they are?

Gord

Gord, I may have mis-stated it as "max" hold. However it does have a hold feature and in my case I would ramp up the motor throttle slowly to max and hold it there for a few seconds and the scale would go into hold (and beep) and it normally will be the maximum weight (thrust). However it does require the weight to stay constant for a couple of seconds to go into hold. If you varied the throttle up and down it would not go into hold until it held a constant weight for a few seconds. If I have explained it correctly. Now the real short coming of this scale is the resolution. It is only graduated in .01 kg, .5 oz and .01 lb. So as you can see it is not a very precise device. In the case of measuring thrust, the resolution works fine.

Ron

Originally Posted by ozair

So how is this going to work with SH, he has already purchased it, how do I get the discount when I go to purchase it, and how do I get his buddy code?

SH will need to post his buddycodes if he got any and if they're still active, or try this buddycode engine, I typed 'logger' and got a few items back:

http://hk.rc-international.info/swarm

You can also go to the Hot Deals forum, and use search to find your products name, if someone has posted the same item.

Originally Posted by protocol

SH will need to post his buddycodes if he got any and if they're still active, or try this buddycode engine, I typed 'logger' and got a few items back:

http://hk.rc-international.info/swarm

You can also go to the Hot Deals forum, and use search to find your products name, if someone has posted the same item.

OK SH time to post your buddycode, I hope its still valid and that you purchased from Hong Kong not USA Warehouse.

My servo tester/cycler came today and it's already proven to be a very worthwhile item! I have a large number of new HXT-900's and started testing them. Out of four tested so far, I have come across two that were "twitchy" and that vascillated when in "neutral". I put the tester on automatic and exercised each of them for about 5 minutes and both now are dead calm at neutral and no longer "twitchy". I have long suspected servos like these acted the way they did because of the less-than-perfect meshing of the gears caused by the gear molding process. I don't know if my suspicions were correct or not, but exercising them a bit has them both working very smoothly and each now has a dead calm neutral.

The manual mode on the tester is great to test slow movements and to verify the neutral position by moving the servo as far as possible in one direction then hitting the neutral button. The "automatic" setting is excellent for getting a good gear mesh - or whatever the exercising does for it. I normally would put "twitchy" servos aside and tend not to use them unless I got desperate, so I have a back log of several different sized servos to check out now along with all of the new ones.

I highly recommend a tester now and couldn't have expected more - especially for $9.90 shipped!

Aeronca

Originally Posted by nakelp86

Its just asking for crash.
I had the same noise on my AXN floater and it would come up randomly.
Changed the timing on ESC to high and the squeal disappeared.
I like to add that I did not have that problem before till just out of blue sky it started squealing. So I have a feeling that ESC reset itself somehow by itself or I did it unknowingly.
So give try.
On the other hand I rarely trust stock electronics especially for FPV.

Thanks for the help and suggestions nakelp86 , StarHopper44 , Gordks. I did set the timing from low to high and was able to stop the problem on bench tests. The motor seems to be getting hot with the high timing but I guess that’s normal. Im going to order a new esc. Motor, and servos once I find a good setup for the Bixler / skysurfer. This plane sure does smoke my trex 500 and 450 for fpv. I like when a glitch doesn’t turn into an expensive and serious crash. Thanks again for the help.