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Bixler Maiden
Hi Guys,
I need a little bit of help, today I maidened a young lad's Bixler for him as he has never flown before. It went like this: 1. Removed washers 2. Built by me ( I own 2 SS and 1 Bixler) controls set at neutral. 3. 2200 mah Turnigy inserted which made it nose heavy but flyable. Pushed through the air very quick after trimming. Still to nose heavy. 4. 2nd flight used standard 1300mah battery with 2 AA batteries, CG better and retrim but still a little nose heavy. 5. 3rd flight removed AA batteries retrim was able to trim well but does nose up a bit when speed picks up. I know I can trim some more that's not the problem. The problem is in level flight I can get it to porpoise and in a dive test it does not pull out and this is without changing the trim (battery is secure). Now my own Bixler I use a 2200 turnigy with no washers does not porpoise and pulls out of dive tests. They both fly different even when set up the same. Oh weather was warm light wind and had not changed when I used my Bixler for the compare. Yes he did manage to fly and land if not gracefully 3 times with me hand launching. Oh his bixler is a RTF mine is a ARF but should not make any diff. Shaun. |
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Here it is in your language (Ëàíãóàãå). http://www.rcavionix.com/catalog/det...EMENT_ID=12325 |
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Looks like a nice motor.....not in stock??? They must have their электромотора stuck up their Напряжение, those Ток холостого's. It vass JOKE! JOKE I'm tellink you!! |
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Two things to check that I can think of off the top of my head. First is elevator control friction or slop. Second is horizontal stabilizer incidence (most likely reason). HTH, Ted |
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Many thanks for your reply. Shaun. |
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Oh NO! I sought it vas sereeus ... as sereeus as my tghinking you oll spouk Rashan! Any way I am just back from the field.
What can I say? I am impressed. I was always flying with the stock motor and for the very beginning I thought there was not enough power but only then I realized it was the lack of those 3500 turns a minute. Then I started to do aerobatics (thanks to that 7 mm arbalest arrow). Very cool action. Neither typical duck on the roll no one on the rough acceleration. The power is really enough for FPV. I do not plan to fly with crazy speed with all that stuff on board. The motor is installed exactly the same as on the other one. Now there is a question: why is that on the stock one the prop is quite far from the motor? Is it not to avoid the air shade? I can shift the prop on mine just as far. But that would result in an additional weight and CG shift to the tail. Do I need to do that? It is not that I am not happy with what I’ve got now. The question is - would that make things even better? I always did not like the shaft being so long because it is more sensitive to be not precisely straight. |
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You can buy bullet connectors from Headsuprc.com and solder them on then shrink wrap after you determine correct rotation or simply solder the wires together and use shrink wrap to protect the solder joint. If you choose to solder the wires directly test first for correct rotation of the motor, then finish solder the wires. Obviously, be careful, don't short any wires and do not hurt yourself with a rotating prop.
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Last edited by Prof100; Sep 24, 2011 at 11:25 AM.
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Here is a link to the page. http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ORS/Categories |
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Latest blog entry: Eagletree Guardian vs. Eagletree Vector
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The last step is to disable the internal BEC from powering the receiver. You can cut it or disconnect it from the plug. The power wire is the red middle wire. Whichever you choose you have to insulate the bare connection. You have now complete the installation of external BEC. Congratulate yourself and go fly. |
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Latest blog entry: Eagletree Guardian vs. Eagletree Vector
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