Originally Posted by thenorm

Hi everyone,

This is my very first post on these forums, though I have spent a considerable amount of time researching RC aircraft on here. For my first trainer RC plane, I think I will go with the Bixler 1

Hi Norm, welcome to the hobby and to the Bixler. I've taught myself to fly with a Bixler2, so Bix1 should be fine for you. If you do finally buy one, I can recommend applying some sort of reinforcing tape to the nose and sides of the fuselage, and also some clear packing tape to the leading edges of the wings, tail and horizontal stabilizer. It may look a little less stylish, but it really helps with durablility.
I've posted pix of my Bix earlier in the thread. It has some other mods, but you don't need them to start with.
Good luck with whatever you decide.

Wow. There are a lot of changes from the Bix (the first one's-not even Bix1.0 or any V? at all). So, I am sitting here wondering a couple of things that several of you guys know the answer to and can help me maybe. Note the pics below.
1. What is the little round hardwood disk (spacer? or ?).
2. I notice that in mine, the servo ends will hit each other if I don;'t cut the last hole off of both servos. I am going to use digital MG servos (not the ones shown-even though that doesn't really have anything to do with anything).
3. I am going to make this plane a lightweight model and therefore I do not plan to use ailerons (along with some other changes). Any thoughts/cautions on this idea?
4. I am not wild about the spar assembly(ies?). Does anyone know what pieces/parts are in the wing?
5. Are most of you using the bolts to hold the wing on? I sort of plan to use Velcro (lighter).
6. The whole wing holding method appears a little junky (and heavy) to me. Thoughts, anyone?
FWIW-I am going to break tradition (the Turnigy 2826-6 2200kv motor - GREAT motor) and use a 2812/7 (new) motor out of a BMI Arrow. I just included this for an FYI.
Naturally, I will video the maiden when I get the plane done. When I get tired of experimenting with lightweight stuff, I am going to add the ailerons and the Bixler LG from HK (or, just buy another KIT).

Originally Posted by ajbaker

1. What is the little round hardwood disk (spacer? or ?).

That looks like one of the wing washers. There should be a detents in the flanges that stick out from the inner end of each wing and they overlap. They both have a wooden washer that should be glued on (4 washers). Upper flange aft, upper flange fore, lower flange aft, lower flange fore.

2. I notice that in mine, the servo ends will hit each other

I checked the other day and it appeared that I didn't need to cut mine, one of the few that were OK things.

3. I am going to make this plane a lightweight model and therefore I do not plan to use ailerons

Personally no. I like ailerons, 'yank and bank" type flying but it depends on your style. The rudder is bigger on the V1.1 so that should help.

4. I am not wild about the spar assembly(ies?). Does anyone know what pieces/parts are in the wing?

They seem to have fixed the tube crushing problem. The original spar was OK IF there wasn't a point stress caused by having removable wings. Now there are 2 fixed tubes (one in each wing) and a solid floating middle spar that fits into them.

5. Are most of you using the bolts to hold the wing on? I sort of plan to use Velcro (lighter).

I'm going to get rid of my bolts and fit Velcro. A bad landing and the bolts rip the foam flanges out.

6. The whole wing holding method appears a little junky (and heavy) to me. Thoughts, anyone?

Absolutely nothing wrong with it PROVIDING you promise never to have a hard wing tip landing and have found a longer screw for the aft one.

Having replaced my first V1 with a V1.1 because there was more glue than foam, fairly obvious why I don't think bolts are what I should use. Plus very hard to grab the bolts to remove them to take the wings off as the bolt heads are 10 mm down a hole.

With the two servos, could you just turn one around so you stagger them? I had to do that on my B-24 when I cut the holes in the ply to close together.

LURCH

Originally Posted by taz101

With the two servos, could you just turn one around so you stagger them? I had to do that on my B-24 when I cut the holes in the ply to close together.

LURCH

When they provided a pushrod that was too long, yes.

I think they have now corrected that mistake.

Originally Posted by taz101

With the two servos, could you just turn one around so you stagger them? I had to do that on my B-24 when I cut the holes in the ply to close together.

LURCH

Great suggestion. However, upon testing, the servo that has a rearward oriented servo arm (one servo has to be) will jam the push rod simply because there is not enough room for the push rod to "swing" side to side in the fuselage. Does that make sense? I considered moving one of the servos forward. But, then, I would have to make the fuselage access hatch larger somehow. Hmmm.....
After looking at the situation closer, It does appear that I could "slide" one of the servos forward (read- trim away the forward part of the foam servo mount). All in all that looks like the best option. Thanks for getting me thinking
AJ

Originally Posted by ajbaker

Great suggestion. However, upon testing, the servo that has a rearward oriented servo arm (one servo has to be) will jam the push rod simply because there is not enough room for the push rod to "swing" side to side in the fuselage. Does that make sense? I considered moving one of the servos forward. But, then, I would have to make the fuselage access hatch larger somehow. Hmmm.....
After looking at the situation closer, It does appear that I could "slide" one of the servos forward (read- trim away the forward part of the foam servo mount). All in all that looks like the best option. Thanks for getting me thinking
AJ

AJ,
Think about relocation of these two servos into tail boom. Plenty of examples in this thread.

P.S. Looks like you never sleep.

AJ, the velcro or rubber band method would be the better way to go.
And if you go this route, since you are going for low weight, you can toss the bolts, wood washers, and the plank that holds the nuts. Fill in the open spaces with white Gorilla glue.
It will add light weight strength to the voids in the foam from the removal of said parts.

That's what I'm doing on my new one.

As for the servo arms, on my mongrel first version I used TP9 servos and didn't have the problem. You could always clip the arms and reposition the tubes to get proper swing operation.

One thing I did mod on mine was the control rod tubes to make em longer. I didn't care for the unsupported wires where they exited the tail boom.

Originally Posted by Scorpio9999

AJ,
Think about relocation of these two servos into tail boom. Plenty of examples in this thread.

They are already in the tail boom in the V1.1.

I just realised I fitted HXT900 servos, not the original ones from my V1 so the standard arms supplied with the HXT900s might have been just that little bit shorter to begin with.

Also if you clip the arm shorter you should be able to make up the movement by going closer on the horn on the elevator and rudder.

Originally Posted by Mac50L

They are already in the tail boom in the V1.1.

Sorry, I disagree. They are in fuselage then going kind of firewall and then tail boom. They are under the wing.





I had in mind to put them in middle or even end of tail boom. Just ensure that diameter of particular place can fit 2 servos bottom to bottom.

In light weight configuration it could be an issue for CoG. If small and light weight battery will be in nose it could be not enough.

Everyone - Thank you for your excellent suggestions. You will see below where I used a few of them. I put notes with the pics. But, first, the specs:
6x4 prop (?? in Kit with plane)
1300mah 25-50C LiPo
2812/7 2200Kv motor
21.76Ap
10.74Vm
227.1Wp
30A HobbyWing ESC. I will add a UBEC later when I put LG, Digital Servos, and etc. on/in it.
Final AUW - 20.5oz. (581g)
BTW-Did anyone notice in the instruction book that it says the AUW should be about 33oz.?
There are no aileron servos and the ailerons are taped in place. I left out ALL the hardware and hardwood stuff that pertains to the wing. Since the Bix is the very close to a clone of the Sky Surfer, I do not anticipate any problems (choke, cough, read -> I hope it all works).
I will have a video of the maiden for all to enjoy. Again, thanks to all of you.
AJ

Scorpio9999, sorry, I agree, the servos are further forward than can be classed as in the aft fuselage. Would need to be aft of that bulkhead to be so.

I found the (w)hole reason why my servos don't clash, I'd cut one hole's worth off the rudder servo arm.

Those pushrod links as fitted by AJBaker, linkage stoppers (don't know why that actual name), from HK as OR016-00501 Linkage Stopper D1.8mm (10per pkt).

The motor mount retaining method I use. In the picture only one of the 2 screws is fitted. Basically the wooden "washer" allows load spreading -

Have not looked at this thread for quite some time now.
Reading the last page tells me that a lot of you still do not have a life away from this same old nonsense.

Originally Posted by Limited flyer

Have not looked at this thread for quite some time now.
Reading the last page tells me that a lot of you still do not have a life away from this same old nonsense.

We have truly enjoyed your absence
AJ

Originally Posted by ajbaker

We have truly enjoyed your absence
AJ

HAW!! I got a chuckle from that one.

Ted