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Dec 24, 2012, 10:59 AM
AKA, Cheap Chiseler
Sculptor's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100
DJ,

Wild house cats have done a job on foam plane in my house too.

The Evercoat polyflex is pretty amazing. Lightweight spackle is brittle. I am using it for the first time on Habu 2 airframe. I tried liquid sheeting and that was the biggest waste of time and money. It requires encasing the foam in liquid sheeting. One edge left open will lift from the foam and can be peeled off like a banana. Constrast that with the evercoat and it is like a thick primer or filler but flexible. You spread it like bondo, it kicks in 6 minutes and sands in 20 minutes. Its flexibility is what makes it perfect for foam planes. You can buy it at a local collision shop paint suppy house. I paid $30 for it. It includes one small tube of catalyst. Get an extra tube because you will use too much inevitably.

Bill
Bill, thank you. In sanding this filler do I wet sand or dry sand it? I've been using acrylic floor wax to make my planes shiny and easy to clean and paint seemed to stick to it quite well. So can I fill it then wax it and then paint it?

Thank you. Once again,
DJ
PS: If sometimes my post sound really weird. I'm trying to learn to use this program called Dragon NaturallySpeaking, a talk and type program. But if some of my posts read like a Chinese assembly manual it may be in part due to this.
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Dec 24, 2012, 11:00 AM
Qualified
JohnVH's Avatar
mine and a buddies



Dec 24, 2012, 12:27 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmertom
I am in the process of building a B1.1 kit. I used HS-65MG and HS-65HB servos. I had to cut just a notch out on the wings to give the servo arms a little room. The width of the servo is just right, but the height is about 1/8 inches shorter than the space provided. I put my servos in with some super-duty double sided tape on the bottom and 3M extreme packing tape covering the servo. seems to work so far. you will need to cut the servo arms for the rudder and elevator servos so they will not interfere with each other. I am not sure I like that configuration. Seems like the servo arm throw will be shorter.
good luck
farmetom
Thanks.

So that means that the servo arm does not line up with the holes for the control horns on the ailerons. Just ignore the holes and put the horns opposite the arm?

How did you handle the wire from the servo to the body. Did you use one long wire fitted into the slot ? I was going to put an extension wire in the slot and coil up the extra next to the servo, however that mean even more excavation in the wing.
Dec 24, 2012, 03:03 PM
My planes plow into the field
farmertom's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy
Thanks.

So that means that the servo arm does not line up with the holes for the control horns on the ailerons. Just ignore the holes and put the horns opposite the arm?

How did you handle the wire from the servo to the body. Did you use one long wire fitted into the slot ? I was going to put an extension wire in the slot and coil up the extra next to the servo, however that mean even more excavation in the wing.
A picture is worth a thousand words.. I have attached three pictures. The first shows the aileron servo. Notice the Little notch cut out for the control arm. The second picture show the elevator and rudder servo control arms cut so they will not interfere with each other.

The third photo shows the twelve inch extension I added to the servo wire. I cut a little foam in the slots provided and shoved the connector into it. Looks just fine.

Hope this helps
farmertom
Last edited by farmertom; Dec 24, 2012 at 03:13 PM.
Dec 24, 2012, 03:37 PM
ɹǝʎןℲ ǝıssn∀
taz101's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmertom
A picture is worth a thousand words.. I have attached three pictures. The first shows the aileron servo. Notice the Little notch cut out for the control arm. The second picture show the elevator and rudder servo control arms cut so they will not interfere with each other.

The third photo shows the twelve inch extension I added to the servo wire. I cut a little foam in the slots provided and shoved the connector into it. Looks just fine.

Hope this helps
farmertom
If you put one of the servos the other way around (so the pivot points of the servos one would be forward and the other backward (staggered)) they may just end up far enough apart so as not to interfear with each other ( an have to cut the servo arms)

LURCH
P.S. the Bixler 1.1 KIT is now in the Aussie warehouse (Ageflyer!!!)
Dec 24, 2012, 03:47 PM
Registered User
Prof100's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sculptor
Bill, thank you. In sanding this filler do I wet sand or dry sand it? I've been using acrylic floor wax to make my planes shiny and easy to clean and paint seemed to stick to it quite well. So can I fill it then wax it and then paint it?

Thank you. Once again,
DJ
PS: If sometimes my post sound really weird. I'm trying to learn to use this program called Dragon NaturallySpeaking, a talk and type program. But if some of my posts read like a Chinese assembly manual it may be in part due to this.
DJ,

You can dry sand with a progression of sandpaper. You really want to spend the money and buy real sandpaper from an automotive body supply house which doesn't plug up when sanding. 3M and Norton make 99% of what is on the market. 3M is best but more expensive. Sand with a progression based on how heavy you lay down the filler. I usually go from 180 or 220 to 360 and then prime, then paint. When painted you can use Johnson acrylic floor shine.

Bill

p.s. Speech Recognition is a challenge to get working reliably. W7 has it as well and works OK, but not great.

Bill
Last edited by Prof100; Dec 24, 2012 at 03:54 PM.
Dec 25, 2012, 06:02 PM
"Auntie Samantha"
Sandancer's Avatar
Question.....for those who are using the 3M hooks/rubber band app. how far out from the root are you placing the hooks?

Thanks! Gary
Dec 26, 2012, 07:23 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandancer
Question.....for those who are using the 3M hooks/rubber band app. how far out from the root are you placing the hooks?

Thanks! Gary
2 " from the fuselage.
AJ
Dec 26, 2012, 11:13 PM
"Auntie Samantha"
Sandancer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker
2 " from the fuselage.
AJ
Thanks, that's where I ended up placing mine.

Gary
Dec 28, 2012, 11:29 AM
Registered User
Just ordered a sky surfer kit and I will be using it for FPV (I have done a lot of FPV and want something to severely abuse....).

I have a bunch of crap laying around the work bench so the only thing I have bought is this:

http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=6364 (5-blade adjustable pitch hub).

To hopefully be used with this thing I found on my bench:

https://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...7&pid=B3945417

I ordered 5, "6 inch", blades to put on it (that is the theoretical diameter of 2 blades, not a single blade). I am hoping for a 6X6X5 setup on 3s. I can adjust the pitch down if it overamps my 1500 kv motor but I am hoping this will be a fun break from some of the more "technical" projects I have been working for the past 6 months...

I am going to try for near 360 pan and some tilt so I can look at my fan in the back as it is (i hope) flying.

Wish me luck!


- Joe
Dec 28, 2012, 11:36 AM
Qualified
JohnVH's Avatar
it probably wont give you very good performance, but let us know how it works out.
Dec 28, 2012, 01:05 PM
┌∩┐(⋟﹏⋞)┌∩┐ The FAA
nightfox7's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by chemnut842
Just ordered a sky surfer kit and I will be using it for FPV (I have done a lot of FPV and want something to severely abuse....).

I have a bunch of crap laying around the work bench so the only thing I have bought is this:

http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=6364 (5-blade adjustable pitch hub).

To hopefully be used with this thing I found on my bench:

https://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?i...7&pid=B3945417

I ordered 5, "6 inch", blades to put on it (that is the theoretical diameter of 2 blades, not a single blade). I am hoping for a 6X6X5 setup on 3s. I can adjust the pitch down if it overamps my 1500 kv motor but I am hoping this will be a fun break from some of the more "technical" projects I have been working for the past 6 months...

I am going to try for near 360 pan and some tilt so I can look at my fan in the back as it is (i hope) flying.

Wish me luck!


- Joe
Am I the only one that thinks this is excessive and will not be efficient? Just seems like another point of possible failure to me..

I thought those hubs were for scale planes such as warbirds?
Dec 28, 2012, 01:09 PM
Qualified
JohnVH's Avatar
more blades = less efficient. That motor is a low KV, I tried a low KV on my bixler, it was doggy and would barely fly, I think that one with a lower KV and 5 blades is not going to be that great.
Dec 28, 2012, 06:25 PM
Registered User
The hubs can be used with a multitude of configurations. Different props are sold for different applications. They have 3 props, slow fly (lower RPM), scale - idk, guess they are scale looking or something, and speed (higher RPM).

A 5-blade setup will be less efficient but that does not necessarily mean it will have low performance. It probably is not my best option for endurance though.

That being said - if I wanted endurance, I would not be buying a sky surfer...

We will see what it does...
Dec 29, 2012, 11:45 AM
Registered User

Newbie Question


Hi All,

I am putting together my Bixler 1.1 kit and I have a newbie question.

I am using the Turnigey 2826/6 motor. I understand that I should mount the motor to the aluminum X mounting bracket that comes supplied with the motor. How do I attach this to the wooden Popsicle stick mount that the Bix comes with? The outside holes on the aluminum X are bigger than the wooden stick .

Thanks for any advice.

Shimmy


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