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http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...at=0&_from=R40 |
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Last edited by ccsj; Jul 01, 2012 at 12:40 PM.
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However you should not run a Lipo battery down to LVC. I never run my Lipo batteries lower than 3.7 volts per cell. The way I do this is by setting a timer on my radio and when it alarms I have plenty of power left for several approaches and a powered landing. |
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Picture the rotational forces generated by the long wing sticking out and contacting something solid upon collision. Those forces are going to be transmitted directly to the two threaded and unsupported (except by foam) screws. It is not going to be pretty, I'm afraid. I am going to try to come up with some combination of rare earth magnets and the hook and rubber band methods, leaving the screws for someone else to mess with. The irony of all this is that I laboriously worked my way through the reading of this entire thread (all 1075 pages!) only to order and receive an airframe kit that was different from all the carefully described work of Versions 1 - 3! Isn't THAT just special! As for negotiating the HK website: I'm with the posters who find it darn near impossible to make work. Each time I try to add something, it turns out that it is from the International site, not US. And yes, it is way overdone in design and very hard to figure out. I'm happy for you, AJ, that you've been able to figure it out well enough to spend over 15K there over the years... you are a much more patient man than I! I actually had a trouble-free ordering experience with BH, which was a complete surprise given the poor reviews they get here and everywhere else. I was completely impressed with the excellent customer service, excellent packing and quick shipping from Headsuprc.com. for all the miscellaneous necessary supplies, motor, etc. All vendors should be that professional and well organized. Two thumbs UP! Now to get organized and get this jewel built... Thanks for all the great ideas and help I found while reading through the thread! Don Spokane, WA |
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Last edited by dsmack; Jul 01, 2012 at 08:48 PM.
Reason: typo... of course!
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Shimmy, Don is absolutely right when he says "Picture the rotational forces generated by the long wing sticking out and contacting something solid upon collision. Those forces are going to be transmitted directly to the two threaded and unsupported (except by foam) screws. It is not going to be pretty, I'm afraid."
I can tell you a nose -in impact will rip the screws and there wooden implants out of the wings. I know this from personal experience. Any 'hard wing' attachment will NOT serve to help mitigate damage. Attachments that flex work and no, gluing them in solid does not help. If you really get a good glue joint it will rip out the side of the fuselage in a hard nose-in crash. The 'rubber band' Idea is the best I've heard so far. But the 'hook in the wing needs to have almost no protusion above the surface because you want no angle of leverage. Otherwise you will just manage to tare out a section of foam in the wing. Remember anything attached to foam is only as strong as the foam it's connected to. This planes durability is based on flexibility. Too 'embed' something in foam find or make a metal tool out of copper or sheet metal. Then trace the 'embed' onto the surface. Take your 'Tool' and heat it up with a bic lighter or 'mini' touch and use it as a 'brand' to 'burn-in' the shape allowing the attachment to sit below the surface so that glue will cover both top and bottom. In my opinion, the V4 is superior because of it's big wing spar in-cased in cast in tubes and internal servo rods which limit 'Rod Flex' . Like I've said "I am not yet qualified to comment on how to fly the SS but am very qualified to comment on crashing it an what happens. DJ |
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Last edited by Sculptor; Jul 01, 2012 at 09:57 PM.
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I use 3M hooks, smaller than a friend's but if over stressed they open up. They will need replacement but I class them as "replacement items". I don't consider a rubber band strong enough so use a wire hooked over the 3M hooks. It is retained by a rubber band. The rubber band has no stressing on it when flying. Also note the 3M hooks are hot-glued, not attached by their patent stretchy "glue". I saw one with the stretchy-glue fall off after landing today and it was an OK landing. Two of us were flying Bixlers this morning, a bit cool, 6C but very light wind until we finished. It's now gusting up to 12 knots. I've not found a problem ordering from HK (admittedly only from China), seems simple enough and their wish-list scheme is good, especially for back-ordered items. I also like being able to see the weight and cost of shipping with options - works well for me. |
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1. The weight - It takes 3-4 pairs minimum IMO. 2. Once in a while, even on a smooth landing on the grass, the wing has come just a tiny bit off and I missed it. Only once did the wing come off because of that. But, since then, I use the Velcro method (NOT a butt joint) and I have been flying with no wing problems since then. Originally, I used (and still do on some early planes) the rubber band method (my design). Same old rule applies though, if it aint' broke........... AJ |
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After Crash
After crashing my Sky Surfer into a field of 6 foot high corn I want to have an alarm that I can turn on at will with my DX6i. They plant corn so close together these days that you have to put your head on the ground to see 30 feet along a row, and about five feet across rows. So downed planes are almost impossible to find in a large cornfield.
So I need a loud alarm and a way to configure it so I can turn it on and off at will. How can I do this? |
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Lost plane finderQuote:
AJ |
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