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May 10, 2012, 03:06 PM
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AshtonFlyer: What are you using for the black trim on the wings and tail? Paint or colored tape? Looks sharp.
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May 10, 2012, 03:17 PM
Registered User
makind's Avatar
Third flight with Bixler and aluminum joiner for wing spar broke.
I will have to replace it with steel.


If i want to narrow the nose, do i have to remove all laminating and laminate it again or can i keep the old laminate?
May 10, 2012, 04:14 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar

What is laminated?


Quote:
Originally Posted by makind
Third flight with Bixler and aluminum joiner for wing spar broke.
I will have to replace it with steel.


If i want to narrow the nose, do i have to remove all laminating and laminate it again or can i keep the old laminate?
What do you mean by "laminating". I have never seen such a thing on a Bixler/SkyS?
AJ
May 10, 2012, 04:16 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by taz101
Parkflyer plastics has one for the easystar. I haven't seen if an easystar is the same size or not. Maybe someone that has had or got both could tell us???
PARKFLYER PLASTICS EASYSTAR UPGRADE

LURCH
I mentioned it here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=12749
But doesn't seem like too many are interested. Surprising.
It would look much better than a DIY job.
May 10, 2012, 04:25 PM
Registered User
Eagle202's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by makind
Third flight with Bixler and aluminum joiner for wing spar broke.
I will have to replace it with steel.


If i want to narrow the nose, do i have to remove all laminating and laminate it again or can i keep the old laminate?
I had a similar nose compression a few weeks ago. I first used a heat gun on both sides of the cockpit to soften up the foam walls.

I then used two Popsicle sticks and placed them on the outside of each side of the cockpit.

I then used a large clamp to keep the pop sticks against the fuse walls and increased the clamping pressure until the wall flattened out. I kept adding a little pressure until the canopy would fit into the cockpit properly. (you may want to heat the walls again to make them more pliable).

I removed the canopy and glued (hot glue) a new pop stick on each of the inside walls of the cockpit.

I then used 2 small clamps to hold the inside and outside stick against the wall. I did this for both sides.

Once the glue set up I removed the large clamp but kept the small ones in place.

I trimmed off any excess glue and removed the clamps and outside sticks. My canopy fit perfectly.

Hopefully when the fuse is back in shape your laminate will be able to be reattached.

If my explanation is confusing I will try to come up with diagrams.
Last edited by Eagle202; May 10, 2012 at 04:29 PM. Reason: added some details
May 10, 2012, 04:55 PM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
Fugitive_Bill's Avatar
I honestly think unless your landing on a course asphalt/tarmac surface and not grass, all that is needed on the plane in my opinion is a strip of 50mm fibreglass tape from the $2 shop covering about the front 30cm's of the belly.

OR something which I'm thinking of trying to get around to doing one day, is saving a few different sizes of clear plastic drink bottles and cutting them up until I find one that just happens to be closely match the profile the belly of the plane if cut the right way, or if not perfect dump the cut piece of drink bottle in REALLY hot water and then try to press mold (tape, rubberbands?) it the the plane.

PS: Like my Master Airscrew pusher 3- Blade 6x4? - I love it! My neighbour gave it to me the day after the planes maiden flight as he was highly annoyed with lucklustre performance of the stock prop!

B!LL!
May 10, 2012, 04:56 PM
FPV Electronics For Life!
NorCalMatCat's Avatar
Glad to know I am not the only one using popsicle sticks for repairs :P
May 10, 2012, 04:59 PM
Registered User
Eagle202's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalMatCat
Glad to know I am not the only one using popsicle sticks for repairs :P
Cheaper than carbon rods and are easy to glue.

Have you tried toothpicks as re-bar inserted into the foam to add strength when gluing two pieces of foam together. It works.
May 10, 2012, 05:24 PM
FPV Electronics For Life!
NorCalMatCat's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle202
Cheaper than carbon rods and are easy to glue.

Have you tried toothpicks as re-bar inserted into the foam to add strength when gluing two pieces of foam together. It works.
I've been using 3/16th wooden dowels for major repairs, luckily only had to make one of those and that was when I went down FPV a while back, haven't had to make any repairs since except landing gear once. I have learned to land softly now :P.
May 10, 2012, 09:51 PM
Registered User
Finally got my Bix online for testing and ran what I thought was a 6x4 prop on stock motor. Turns out it was 6.5x4 - so after making the unintentional valley for prop clearance, I am running a 11. V 3300mAh resulting in 25A with 265 Watts. The power tops out at about 3/4 throttle producing nothing more at full bore. Curious if this setup will be okay - not overloading motor... Using a 60ESC after smoking a 20A and a 45A... But that's another issue with a shorted wire that has been resolved . Thanks!
May 10, 2012, 11:27 PM
Registered User
I use a plastic bottle on the nose of my plane and also use a cut up bottle along the bottom of the plane. Helps when landing on asphalt. And the bottle on the nose helps with those untimely encounters with the ground nose first!!
May 11, 2012, 12:13 AM
FPV Electronics For Life!
NorCalMatCat's Avatar
I still think wheels give the best results :P I can land on any surface, even grass (though tall grass tends to cause flipping :P)
May 11, 2012, 01:25 AM
Fixed and rotary wing flyer
Prof, AJ, thanks for the replies. I managed to get the motor off, took the shaft out but had no luck straightening it out so I went ahead and ordered the 2212-6 motor and a 3.17mm prop adapter from rc timer. Bummer-more waiting...

Oh and on a side note, the second bixler I received which I bought for my dad has the exact same size shaft which I double checked with my own digital caliper. It's not 2.3mm but rather 2.38mm-2.40mm depending on where you measure on the shaft. I'm not going to bother cutting off the prop adapter because I know the 2.3mm adapters simply won't fit and I doubt I'll be able to drill them out perfect. Will just use the stock prop on his plane for now.

I can't believe they used an adapter that doesn't work with any other props, and can't believe they machined the shaft down from 3mm.
May 11, 2012, 01:38 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar

Suggestions


Quote:
Originally Posted by fabric8
Prof, AJ, thanks for the replies. I managed to get the motor off, took the shaft out but had no luck straightening it out so I went ahead and ordered the 2212-6 motor and a 3.17mm prop adapter from rc timer. Bummer-more waiting...

Oh and on a side note, the second bixler I received which I bought for my dad has the exact same size shaft which I double checked with my own digital caliper. It's not 2.3mm but rather 2.38mm-2.40mm depending on where you measure on the shaft. I'm not going to bother cutting off the prop adapter because I know the 2.3mm adapters simply won't fit and I doubt I'll be able to drill them out perfect. Will just use the stock prop on his plane for now.

I can't believe they used an adapter that doesn't work with any other props, and can't believe they machined the shaft down from 3mm.
I completely agree with you. When I first saw that some time ago, my first reaction was "What the heck were they thinking?" It makes no sense at all. That motor and adapter you ordered will be more than satisfactory. Oh, BTW, I hope you have a 30A ESC (or larger) in stock. The stock 20amp ESC is not usable for the 2212-6. An APC 6x4E is the suggested prop for what you ordered. Keep us posted on your mod (pics please) and let us all know your experience with that motor/adapter combo.
AJ
Another thought - You can drill out a prop to 7mm and it will fit nicely on that stock adapter.
May 11, 2012, 02:03 AM
Registered User
makind's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker
What do you mean by "laminating". I have never seen such a thing on a Bixler/SkyS?
AJ
im sorry. Laminating in my country is old expression for fiberglassing.


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