Typhoon electric by RCRCM build log and presentation - Page 28 - RC Groups
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Feb 06, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Have you flown the e-typhoon yet Husafreak? Would like to see a photo of your fuselage install.

I just got my typhoon back in the air. Flap fixed with a silicon hinge.
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Feb 10, 2012, 12:00 PM
Morning Light Mountain
badbill's Avatar
Quick question, do I glue both stab halves to the carbon rod, so it is attached permanently? Also, what holds the wing on, do I just tape the joints?

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
Feb 11, 2012, 03:24 AM
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No, dont glue the carbon rod. If you break it the bits will be stuck and you might have to replace the stabs. Just build up the thickness of the rod with thin CA until its a tight fit and sand it back if you put too much on (let the CA set before you insert the rod!!).

On another forum the designer of the typhoon mentioned the wings were designed to be taped in place. I find it a bit annoying to tape the entire join so I use one small piece of fibre strapping tape on the top. My wings hold very tight anyway as I used the CA trick to build up the thickness of the carbon joiner and could actually fly it without any tape at all.
Feb 11, 2012, 06:16 PM
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320pilot's Avatar
Stunt Double,
Here are some pictures of my Typhoon, showing the motor/ESC layout in the fuse. Futaba receiver is behind the wing joiner.
Feb 11, 2012, 09:03 PM
Morning Light Mountain
badbill's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stunt Double
No, dont glue the carbon rod. If you break it the bits will be stuck and you might have to replace the stabs. Just build up the thickness of the rod with thin CA until its a tight fit and sand it back if you put too much on (let the CA set before you insert the rod!!).

On another forum the designer of the typhoon mentioned the wings were designed to be taped in place. I find it a bit annoying to tape the entire join so I use one small piece of fibre strapping tape on the top. My wings hold very tight anyway as I used the CA trick to build up the thickness of the carbon joiner and could actually fly it without any tape at all.
That worked great. I had already called SUSA and they had told me the same. I was surprised just how little CA it took. Thanks!

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
Feb 11, 2012, 11:44 PM
nph
nph
Registered User
Sorry, I am building my Typhoon right now but am a little lost as to what carbon rod you are referring to that would require replacing the stab?
Are you referring to the bit that joins the two wing parts? If so I don't quite get the connection to the stab.

Not being a native English I am actually not quite sure what the stab is either, some of the RC terms are new to me.
Stab, being one of them

Thanks
Feb 12, 2012, 12:38 AM
Registered User
Was referring to the carbon rod used to join the horizontal stabilizers (stab or tailplane, that flat bit at the back of the plane!!!).
Feb 12, 2012, 07:24 PM
Registered User
Ive had the typhoon for a while now but never really explored its thermal-ing potential, mostly because its not really my flying style but also I was a bit limited by the DX6i's mixing abilities. Now ive got a 2.4 module for a 9 channel radio which has sailplane mixes so I can try a few new things. When chasing thermals what have you found to be the ideal flap/aileron settings?
Feb 13, 2012, 01:09 AM
nph
nph
Registered User
I am really interested in tihis answer as well since I am building light in order to catch a thermal or two.
Feb 14, 2012, 05:36 PM
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The crow function works nicely with the Typhoon. Couldnt do it properly before with the DX6i. It really slows it down in a hurry and makes for precise landings. Loving the new radio.
Mar 16, 2012, 11:35 AM
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Husafreak's Avatar
I should be able to maiden my Typhoon this weekend weather permitting. One thing is with the Stab LE at 63mm it just looked (like it was trimmed) nose down to me so I checked it with an incidence meter and got over 1 degree negative flying incidence on the stab (the wing 1 degree negative reference the stab) , kinda scary, so I used the incidence meter to set the stab zero reference the wing and a few clicks up trim, maybe it is 61-62mm now, should be good to go. Mine is a bit of a lead sled at 4 lbs 3 oz with a 4cell AA Eneloop for Rx power, a 4s 2250 TP 65C power pack, and the big Neu motor gearbox 15x13 prop. Plus I laid in some weight reinforcing the fuselage for about 8" around the wing LE. I need 1/2 to 1 oz tail weight to get the CG back with this setup so I plan to put a AAA Eneloop in the nose for power and ditch the tail weight. Anyway wish me luck, this thing pulls like a freight train so at least I know it is going up! Also I sat for hours and still need help with the sailplane programming in my 11X. I have all 5 flight modes and crow and a camber and a reflex setting on switches with preset deflections but for the life of me I cannot get the flaps and ailerons to work together for roll or elevator and flaps+ailerons to operate together for pitch.
Mar 27, 2012, 12:05 PM
voodoo magic maaan
lukeydukey10's Avatar
i maidened my etyphoon today, am using tp2200 3s battery, kontronic motor, gearbox and phat folding prop
am using dx8 with throttle on switch off / full - was a bit worried about this but it works really well and is very fast and unlimited vertical.. was on the slope with it and its a great all rounder!! very happy with the phoon!
Apr 05, 2012, 08:25 AM
voodoo magic maaan
lukeydukey10's Avatar
here is my ephoon with custom go pro mount flying in S England today
great plane, very stable.. could feel the camera was on there but it still flew well
here is the vid http://youtu.be/ArfvyPKzBLM
too cold on the slope for maximum enjoyment
Apr 15, 2012, 04:05 AM
Speed is Good!
rumbey's Avatar
Looking for around 750-800W. What non gearbox setup would I need. I presume 3s 2250 sized lipos?
Apr 15, 2012, 11:38 AM
Registered User
Jebera's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rumbey
Looking for around 750-800W. What non gearbox setup would I need. I presume 3s 2250 sized lipos?
Maybe a AXI 2826/10 wil do, but what's the nose inside diameter?


André


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