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Old May 12, 2010, 11:35 AM
N114RV is offline
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Here is a the location of the build thread for my P-51. You may have to copy and paste it into your web browser.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578985

Mel
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Old May 12, 2010, 12:12 PM
Freddie B is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N114RV View Post
Here is a the location of the build thread for my P-51. You may have to copy and paste it into your web browser.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578985

Mel
Thank you Mel! Everyone enjoy.....

Fred
Old Jun 02, 2010, 01:03 AM
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Mel built Hans' P51 design. Hans also did a FW190, or was it ME109. Search for Hans' threads and you will find it.

David
Old Aug 08, 2010, 11:00 AM
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Great method


I wonder if this decals can be used on solartex, and how are they to be attached to fabric coverings like solartex.
Best Eystein
Old Aug 09, 2010, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roffe_ek View Post
I wonder if this decals can be used on solartex, and how are they to be attached to fabric coverings like solartex.
Best Eystein
You could try printing on solartex itself, but I never tried that. Because these decals stick and seem as thin as paint, I'd try the finish you are using to paint your solartex, clearcoat that is. Just need a combatability test with your waterproofing coat on the tissue. you caould also print them on silkspan if that's available in Norway.

Fred
Old Aug 16, 2010, 06:35 PM
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Another way, No printing required, Insignia Decals.


OK, here is another way to do some quick decals from tissue wrap. I wanted to make a couple slow flyer combat planes, to engage my flying buddy in the front yard/street.

This was done on 2 Blue Babies (Scratchbuilt Forum), the 33" undercamber design. I only enlarged the wingspan an exta 1.5", and used the original idea of GWS IPS drives.

Anyway I painted sone of the Bluecore Fanfold foam, applied these decals, and they worked great.

I'll go over this slight deviation, no printer needed!

A quick look at the finished product.

Fred
Old Aug 16, 2010, 06:42 PM
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First I simply taped some tissue wrap over an open cardboard box.

Second, I sprayed paint over the tissue, nice even coat, faily wet, not soaked or sagging please! It should be wrinkled somewhat, just like if misted with water, but not quite as much.

I've tried Color Place from Walmat (heavy, and thick), and Krylon still works the best.

I put the painted tissue into the sunshine (speed up drying, some heat), and it dried nice and taught.

For this set of Decals, I used 3 colors. White, Red, and Black. I also used White Krylon on White Wrap, red on red, etc.

I've also done this just barely misting some color on the tissue, to keep things really light, but mainly to darken the tissue's original color. In this case I flip the tissue over when dry, and mist on a clear coat, backside, to make sure they are sealed and waterproffed for the next step.

Fred
Last edited by Freddie B; Aug 16, 2010 at 06:50 PM.
Old Aug 16, 2010, 06:47 PM
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I cut out my first shape from the treated tissue.

I used Glue Stick to attach the red stars to the white background.

The photo shows the 4 smaller stars glued, the 2 larger ones ready to glue.

You will note a star template in the top right corner. I make my templates from plastic, thick card stock, manila envelopes, etc!

Let them dry awhile, if any small amount of wrinkle going on, or to get a good seal, put them inside a heavy book!

Fred
Old Aug 16, 2010, 06:53 PM
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Next I trim the background tissue, these it was a white border, both on the Russian 'Red Star', and the German 'Iron Cross'.

It is pretty easy to find insignia on the internet, or in a book!

Ready to apply?

Fred
Old Aug 16, 2010, 07:01 PM
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To apply I found the best method for these models was to wet the surface of the foam (painted or un-painted) with Water Based Poly Urethane (WBPU), (I use Polycrylic, Minwax brand, satin).

A quick but complete wipe with my glue stick to the back of the deacl, I place it where I want it, over the damp WBPU spot.

Immediately, I add some drops of WBPU to the top of the decal, rubbing it from center out, making sure to get it completely wet. Also make sure the edges get wet too.

I wipe the excess off, or, spread it outward past the decal, until most of the WBPU is gone, or starting to look dry.

Any wrinkles, folds, etc, you can work out now, by gently, but firmly, rubbing the decal itself.

The WBPU starts to dry real fast, so get it right now, and move to the next. It won't be completely dry for maybe a day (undeneath), but it will suck down to the surface and after an hour or so, you would have to scrape and sand these decals off!

No color bleed, or other problems noticed. Worked really well.

Fred
Last edited by Freddie B; Aug 16, 2010 at 07:06 PM.
Old Aug 20, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Fred finally checked out your link from on the BB thread and all i can say is Wow . Great methods , cant wait to try this on my current project .

Chris
Old Aug 21, 2010, 11:45 PM
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Chris,

Cool hope you have good success like I do. Post some pictures too!

Fred
Old Aug 23, 2010, 08:34 PM
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Thanks a ton for posting your decal technique Freddie B. I've been doing paint masks --what a chore! Prunner
Old Aug 23, 2010, 10:32 PM
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I don't recall but this thread probably has references or how-to on printing decals on tissue from your inkjet or laser printer. Then spraying them with Krylon Acryllic Clear to make them waterproof. I think Paul Bradley first published the technique in Flying Models about 10-15 years ago.
Works well if you have a good image you can scale to the size you need.
PDF files work as well.
Opens up a lot of possibilities.
Just takes a bit of fiddling with printing settings as to not print with too much ink so it doesn't bleed on inkjet printers.

David
Old Sep 11, 2010, 10:50 AM
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the heavy paper stock


I wonder about the heavy paper stock is that ordinary paper used for printers, I try to make the decals but I have paper stop in my printer every time I try this the tissue is not torn but the whole sandwich stops. I use ordinary printerpaper as the heavy paperstock is that correct?
Best Eystein


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