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Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:45 PM
Freddie B is offline
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OK. Vtdiy now you got me passed out on the floor. You could write a book about "All the things you should know, about...." and become rich (Costco $9.98 + tax).

I love stuff like this. I am always all ears when it comes to the details. Especially like the Lacquar paint and how they can be re-dissolved in their respective thinners, cotton ball and all.

Thank you and I am honored it can be found in my decal thread.

Fred
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 02:44 AM
jj604 is offline
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ancora imparo
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+1.

And my favorite factoid about shellac is what it is made from. My Grandpa once told me and I thought he was having me on.

From Wikipedia,
Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug, on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is processed and sold as dry flakes which are dissolved in ethyl alcohol to make liquid shellac, which is used as a brush-on colorant, food glaze and wood finish.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddie B View Post
OK. Vtdiy now you got me passed out on the floor. You could write a book about "All the things you should know, about...." and become rich (Costco $9.98 + tax).

I love stuff like this. I am always all ears when it comes to the details. Especially like the Lacquar paint and how they can be re-dissolved in their respective thinners, cotton ball and all.

Thank you and I am honored it can be found in my decal thread.

Fred
Old Jun 28, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Yup, and the lac syllable in lacquer also comes from the same bug's name. While lacquering be sure to drink a cup of fabulously expensive paradoxurus coffee, so you will have something even more surprising to tell your own grandkids.
Old Jun 28, 2012, 09:33 PM
1967250s is offline
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Anyone try Future floor polish with this method? Nice tutorial. Thanks
Old Jun 28, 2012, 10:21 PM
Freddie B is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967250s View Post
Anyone try Future floor polish with this method? Nice tutorial. Thanks
First, thank you, and you are welcome.

I have used Future, however it is now sold as Pledge with Future Shine. Not on the decals though, but tried it on tissue. I have seen tissue finished on a balsa, open frame work before. Only problem I noticed, is once dry, Future is not completely waterproof on tissue applied to foam, and failed my durabilty test. The WBPU (actually Acrylic, the Polycrylic brand by Minwax) was much more durable. I would be interested in how it fairs, but it is a lot of water/moisture content which may disturb some inks.

If one had pigmented inks, treated, lazer inks, etc, then might be better? The older water borne ink I used was HP brand, and even treated too much application moisture was a slight issue.

I will try this sometime soon. If you or someone else tries it, let us all know.

Thank you too for bringing up a great question that no one else ever mentioned.

Fred
Old Jun 28, 2012, 10:37 PM
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I've got some Future and like Fred tried it on tissue (a rubber powered tissue and balsa model) and I didn't like it too much. Other people do seem to get good results with it though. I also tried it as a test band of it under the wing overcoating acrylic paint on a tissue covered foam wing for a Pacific Ace I built. I didn't see any advantage in gloss or coverage compared to test bands of Polycrylic, or Liquitex acrylic gloss artist's varnish on the same wing. But again, someone else might like it better.
Old Jul 17, 2012, 06:51 PM
Newtron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtdiy View Post
...While lacquering be sure to drink a cup of fabulously expensive paradoxurus coffee, so you will have something even more surprising to tell your own grandkids.
Ewww. Gross.

Tim
Old Jul 19, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Tom, Oslo, Norway
vtdiy, thanks for the "translation" for Europe and explanation of the products used. I'll have a second round to the the paint shops and see what I can find.
Old Jul 19, 2012, 09:53 PM
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You're welcome! Let us know what you find and how well it works. Freddies decal system is a great help to builders, and I'm sure more people can use it everywhere with some understanding of what can be substituted for common name brands here..
Old Jul 21, 2012, 09:55 PM
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Very Very nice article Fred,Very well done.I've been a modeler for 60 some years.Planes, Trains,Boats.I love learning new things.This one really takes the cake!Thank You so much for sharing.The Very best to You and Your Family.Smitty.
Old Jul 21, 2012, 10:23 PM
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Thank you Smitty. The same to you and your family too! Glad you appreciated it and maybe picked up a few tips.

Fred
Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:05 PM
rick.benjamin is offline
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Fred;
Thanks for your tutorial, well done!

I use the feed-through slot in a Brother HL-2170W laser printer (black printer).
Works well.
I'm looking at getting a Brother HL-3075CW Laser (color printer), also has a feed-through slot.

I made a mini white foam piper cub, but wanted it yellow. Used colored tissue and the same mounting process with a HP LaserjetC4180. Some overspray.
Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:53 PM
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Cute!
Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:53 PM
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So the feedthrough slot is important. Thanks for the info. With the current back to school specials on at Staples I see the laser printers going for as low as $69.00 . ( As always the ink cartridges will be much more expensive) Now I have to investigate as I have been impressed by the work submitted here. Tero T in Toronto
Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:00 PM
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Feed through is desirable, but not critical.
I made my cub skins on a non feed-through printer


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