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Oct 01, 2013, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwp2 View Post
where?
Visual aid: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuselage
Last edited by jbarchuk; Oct 01, 2013 at 08:54 PM.
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Oct 01, 2013, 08:42 PM
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Lol.
Oct 01, 2013, 09:52 PM
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bhoov128's Avatar
These last few posts have me rolling

Well played jbarchuk, well played

Ben
Oct 01, 2013, 09:56 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Am pretty sure jwp2 knows where the fuselage is and was joking

jtodski just didn't know we call it the fuse. Speaking of fuses (the other ones), I wonder why manufacturers don't use them in their electronics? (current over draw)... it would save us from frying bricks. I bought a bunch of pico fuses to use on my Champ and other plane's LED systems in case of shorts. Very tiny, light weight and cheap.
Oct 01, 2013, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Speaking of fuses (the other ones), I wonder why manufacturers don't use them in their electronics? (current over draw)... it would save us from frying bricks.
Beeeecaaaaws...

A US$0.15 part costs several-$ to design and manufacture, which adds $10 to the retail price. It also adds a ton of real estate, which makes it harder to fit in a plane. (Notice the NQX where they went through the trouble of putting a FET on the bottom of the board to avoid the annoyance of making the brick larger.)

That $ is for a pure SMT part. So if it blows, who's gonna change it? LHS? Not likely. LOL!!! Ship the whole plane back to China to change a fuse to fix a $5 (their cost) part? Shipping would cost more than the service charge anyway.

The 'SMT fuse holder' style which potentially -could- be changed by the LHS is $1.50. That adds a *ton* to the retail price. It's another point of failure if the fuse happens to fall out in a bad crash. So even if the pilot -could- replace it himself he needs to carry around a bag of fuses. And an appropriate tweezer. And a magnifying lamp.

It's simply not doable.

My hotrod Hitec X4 AC charger doesn't have an on/off switch - saves $10 off the retail price. I am annoyed, but not excessively.

The bottom line is that -engineering- knows what they would -like- to build into a product, but -management- says 'if it's not *absolutely*ABSOLUTELY* necessary, then leave it out.'
Oct 01, 2013, 11:30 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
On an ultra micro plane or heli I'm talking about these, which can easily be placed inline in the battery lead... a battery lead, like the Parkzone one, that is sold as a replacement part and is, in fact, intended to be replaced by the user...
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I'd much rather replace a 3 or 4 dollar component (Horizon charges $2 for the PKZ3052) than a $60 brick.



Anything larger than a UM, like the several park flyers I own, and fuse type, cost and real estate are not even a concern. We add UBECs, servo rate adjusters, battery adapters, LED controllers etc. that are 10's of times the size, weight and cost of a little 10, 20, 30, 40amp fuse. Like those components, they could be sold as a plug-in accessory and not necessarily be designed into the stock electronics. I don't understand why this doesn't exist in aftermarket? Maybe it does? If, not, maybe I need to start a side business

Even better would be a reset-able or even a thermal auto-resetting breaker (which could actually be onboard an ESC since it doesn't ever need to be replaced).
Oct 02, 2013, 07:45 AM
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I'm not sure what kind of situation would cause you to overstress the esc/,rx on the Champ. Maybe if someone over propped or used too big of a motor?
Oct 02, 2013, 09:45 AM
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bhoov128's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwp2 View Post
I'm not sure what kind of situation would cause you to overstress the esc/,rx on the Champ. Maybe if someone over propped or used too big of a motor?
My PKZ P-51 motor is pushing it. I think one of the main problems is you're basically talking about OCP which some of the bricks already have; and if you're blowing a fuse because your motor pulled too much amperage you will lose all control of the plane. On the other hand, for instance with my Beast 3D, if I prop it up too high or run it on 3S without heatsinks on the FETs and VR, then the over-current protection can kick in, it'll kill the motor, but the servos still respond. Over temp protection results in a full lockout, and a crash.

Ben
Oct 02, 2013, 11:26 AM
Registered User
Hi all

I have just brought my 1st RC plane and I went fot the HBZ Champ.
What a wicked little plane. I have come from FP and CP Heli (Of which i am still learning how to fly my CP heli) I am really impressed as to how easy it is to fly and it give you very little if no stress at all. 1st time out I got a few loops out of it and a stall turn which was nice.
Just cant stop smiling when I take it out lol.

Red
Oct 02, 2013, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhoov128 View Post
My PKZ P-51 motor is pushing it. I think one of the main problems is you're basically talking about OCP which some of the bricks already have; and if you're blowing a fuse because your motor pulled too much amperage you will lose all control of the plane. On the other hand, for instance with my Beast 3D, if I prop it up too high or run it on 3S without heatsinks on the FETs and VR, then the over-current protection can kick in, it'll kill the motor, but the servos still respond. Over temp protection results in a full lockout, and a crash.

Ben
Thanks for clearing that up for me. It makes sense.So we need a brick that can react the same way to ocp as it does lvc.
Oct 02, 2013, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red12 View Post
Hi all

I have just brought my 1st RC plane and I went fot the HBZ Champ.
What a wicked little plane. I have come from FP and CP Heli (Of which i am still learning how to fly my CP heli) I am really impressed as to how easy it is to fly and it give you very little if no stress at all. 1st time out I got a few loops out of it and a stall turn which was nice.
Just cant stop smiling when I take it out lol.

Red
Welcome to the HZChamp forum. This is a wonderful little plane with a huge following. This is an awesome forum with Some very smart, good hearted people here.
Oct 02, 2013, 04:40 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwp2 View Post
I'm not sure what kind of situation would cause you to overstress the esc/,rx on the Champ. Maybe if someone over propped or used too big of a motor?
Not getting off the throttle quick enough when the prop (or heli rotor) gets jammed in a nose-over/crash etc. will shoot the motor's current draw up to what's called its stall current... that kind of thing will let the magic smoke out of your ESC pretty quick if the motor doesn't fry first. This is probably the most common cause of blown FETs in ESCs/bricks.

ESC's and motors sometimes get dunked flying off floats, sometimes before you have a chance to get off the throttle quick enough (short).

Like Ben said, over-propping... but hopefully you've bench tested to avoid that if you're playing around with props.


etc.
Oct 02, 2013, 04:56 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Ben, I forgot your CC has OCP. That would be one of the things I was talking about , so I guess it does exist. How does it work?
Oct 02, 2013, 04:59 PM
Elfi Flyer
Doug Sipprell's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red12 View Post
Hi all

I have just brought my 1st RC plane and I went fot the HBZ Champ.
What a wicked little plane. I am really impressed as to how easy it is to fly and it give you very little if no stress at all. Just cant stop smiling when I take it out lol.

Red
Arguably, one of the most successful, "right out of the box" micros out there, and IMHO, one of the best "starter" micros for those new to the venue. Reasons for it's success? Take your pick:

- Easy to see in the air
- Will fly in light to moderate winds
- Stronger motor than the comparison UM J-3 cub, with stronger prop shaft
- Good availability of spare parts
- Can be flown in large indoor facilities
- and, BIG advantage, DSM2/DSMX compatible. Amazing for a non-ParkZone product.

One major caution: Be VERY careful when working with micros! They can be VERY addictive. You will find that, like good potato chips, you can't have just one!! Don't ask how I know!

RD
Oct 02, 2013, 05:13 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Not getting off the throttle quick enough when the prop (or heli rotor) gets jammed in a nose-over/crash etc. will shoot the motor's current draw up to what's called its stall current... that kind of thing will let the magic smoke out of your ESC pretty quick if the motor doesn't fry first. This is probably the most common cause of blown FETs in ESCs/bricks.

ESC's and motors sometimes get dunked flying off floats, sometimes before you have a chance to get off the throttle quick enough (short).

Like Ben said, over-propping... but hopefully you've bench tested to avoid that if you're playing around with props.


etc.
Thanks North, I forgot about a nose-over while forgetting to kill the throttle. That would make the magic smoke come out for sure. I fuse would be a good idea!


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