Windrider 60 inch Scout Bee - Page 5 - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Dec 26, 2010, 03:53 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by Ming
Please use hair dryer to warm it up slightly.

Ming Lou
I will try this and report back with pictures once done.

Thanks for the advice.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Dec 31, 2010, 04:37 PM
Registered User
Slope P's Avatar

thank you Ming

My Scout Bee arrived last Monday and it took me a better part of one long afternoon to get it finished.

I must tell everyone what great customer service that Ming provides. One of the servos that came was not working and I fired an email to Ming and it was replied in less than 5 minutes. Once he knew which servo I needed the replacment was on it's way. Thank you Ming.

I did the standard build on the Scout Bee and it came out lighter than I had hoped. RTF is right at 29oz. I wanted to build this one for bigger winds since I already have Bee 2 for lighter conditions and that's flying at 24oz. I suppose I can load it up with weight if I need to. What is the RTF weight for yours out there? Anyone?

The stock elevons are really light balsa so I might replace them with stiffer/heavier ones. Read somewhere in this thread CG should be @ 10 1/8".
Any comment?

Last edited by Slope P; Dec 31, 2010 at 05:20 PM.
Jan 04, 2011, 10:14 AM
Registered User
Well your scout bee looks good to me.

If you want to add weight and strength the easiest way possible for flying in heavier winds then I would suggest getting some of that clear self adhesive photo laminating stuff (also referred to as 'new stuff' in various threads on rcgroups).

If you detached the elevons and servo arms you could cover it in the laminate film over the top of everything else and it would come out heavier AND stronger as opposed to just ballasting it up. The obvious downside is you wont be able to remove the film easily, unlike added ballast, but if you are not interested in light wind performance this doesn't matter.

You can also cover your stock elevons in the same laminating film as i have heard this adds strength (and a bit of weight, obviously) rather than having to get new ones if you wanted.

Alternatively you could just tape it up some more with glass fibre tape, but i think that would add more weight.

I have not started building mine yet - i still need to get hold of glues and stuff. I'm trying to get hold of some 'goop' as everyone goes on about how good it is.

I covered my beevolution in the clear laminating film and it flew great in anything over about 10mph of wind. I took it to a glider meet up with people flying >1.5 meter EPP planks and composite gliders when it was really windy and whilst it didn't fly as well as their (much more expensive) aircraft, they were all surprised it was in the air at all - i thought it did great. I am planing on covering my scout bee the same way (though i will be trying to keep it a bit lighter this time in terms of wing loading) as i usually have enough wind and it seems to work well.
Last edited by teslahed; Jan 04, 2011 at 10:25 AM.
Jan 04, 2011, 10:21 AM
Registered User
When glueing the two wing halves together, what is the best kind of glue to use?

Last time i used contact adhesive but i'm thinking epoxy would give me more time to play with the positioning to make sure they were exactly flush before it set, as i want to make sure my wings are glued straight.

I suspect this join would benefit from being as strong as possible - i assume epoxy would be ok unless something more flexible would be better?
Jan 04, 2011, 10:24 AM
snakecrew's Avatar
goop I don't think epoxy sticks to epp all that well
Jan 04, 2011, 10:36 AM
Ming's Avatar
I am never glue two wing halves together, just tape them up together by provide 3 inch fiber tape..

Ming Lou
Jan 04, 2011, 10:39 AM
Registered User
olivers dad's Avatar
As somebody from the UK I use 5 min epoxy or gorillia Glue Or glue gun . By the time its well taped up it makes little difference. I have never had a centre section split on all the above. Building A 10 in Epp and using all the above with no probs Good bit of combat or D/S Its going to look like a shed in 2 weeks anyway

Lord Chasleton
Last edited by olivers dad; Jan 04, 2011 at 10:45 AM. Reason: added A10 build log
Jan 04, 2011, 12:55 PM
Registered User
Since it doesn't seem to be quite as important as i thought, i'll use whatever seems to stick ok and gives me a bit of time to align the two halves before it grabs, thanks.
Jan 04, 2011, 01:55 PM
Registered User
Slope P's Avatar

Good idea.....I'll new tuff over what's already on and be stronger & heavier.

I used goop to join the 1/2s.

Jan 04, 2011, 02:05 PM
Objects in mirror are losing
1000MPH's Avatar
I like to use full strength goop for joining the wings. In my experience, wing halves rarely line up perfectly and goop makes decent filler. It is also very compatible with spackle. I never bother squaring up the edges anymore, I've tried and failed too many times and ended up with a 47" wing.
Latest blog entry: Kinetic 2 Meter - K2mDP
Jan 04, 2011, 04:09 PM
Registered User
With this wing there is a piece of carbon that runs down the middle that i hope will help get the position right, my concern is making sure both wing halves are level and i don't build in a wing twist.

I'll have to practice using goop as i've not had any before but i'll look at using this to join the halves.
Jan 04, 2011, 04:39 PM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
Ming and I don't agree on much when it comes to setup of Bees, but I agree with him
on this one. Glue is not needed between the wing halves. Just use the supplied 3"
wide tape with the recommended taping pattern. I've built a dozen Bees or so
and a couple scouts with no glue in the center, crashed them into many solid objects
at high (DS) speeds and have never ever split the wing on the center joint.

The trick to avoiding wing twist is to get the two curved spars all lined up, and
make sure the wing is dead straight before you add any glue. Then CA one side
and let it cure, and double check the straightness of the wing before you glue
the other side. It only takes a few minutes to get it right.

Jan 04, 2011, 06:28 PM
Registered User
I can kind of see how that would work daemon, but what about gluing the internal spar? I suppose if i used slow curing epoxy i could use that for the internal spar, then CA the curved spars in one side after lining those up, then double check the straightness before doing the other side as you suggest.
Or do you not use any glue on the internal spar either?
Jan 04, 2011, 08:33 PM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
I don't use the straight spar on Bees. I did use it on the Scout
but I don't recall if I glued it, or just used it for alignment. Could use just about
anything though. The straight round spar doesn't contribute any significant
stiffness to the wing.

Jan 05, 2011, 12:27 AM
The original Flying Pigs Sqd.
Up&Away's Avatar
I use 3M spray glue on my wings...

Quick Reply

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What size to do of Windrider Scout Bee? Ming Flying Wings 18 May 22, 2015 08:57 PM
25 inch molded Micro Bee by Windrider Ming Flying Wings 20 Dec 14, 2010 04:07 AM
Discussion Whos got the fastest 60 inch racer ? keone m. Slope 41 Jul 30, 2010 10:12 AM
Discussion Windrider 60 inch Scout Bee Ming Slope 11 Dec 26, 2009 01:49 AM
For Sale Big Bee ARF,NIB 60 inch wing ,hard to find,Clancy nick601 Aircraft - Fuel - Airplanes (FS/W) 1 May 09, 2008 07:57 PM