Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Apr 09, 2010, 12:14 PM
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 12:47 AM
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i did say it wasn't a good fix. but it will help a little, just like anything else mentioned would.
Old Apr 10, 2010, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jettrooper02 View Post
i did say it wasn't a good fix. but it will help a little, just like anything else mentioned would.
As several others mentioned, the rule of thumb to follow to make a drastic change in temps is to "gearing down some on the pinion" until the temps get in the tolerable range. Everything else is like putting a band-aid on a broken arm... might help ever so vaguely, but not really address the issue at hand.
Old Apr 10, 2010, 11:31 AM
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yes. as i said. but if your only a few dergrees from where it's good, and the gearing is so low it is unable to not wheely, it might be a good idea to use a cooling fan to bring it down a little more.

wait, what tires are you running? if htey are bigger than sc tires that would explain it, because the motor then has to move more wheel hich requires more work. i know it will sound wierd, but the tire size has a part in the vehicles speed. for instance, i'm running 2.2 tires on a savage. it goes slow. bring those up to jumbo kongs, now it's fast. i can't remember exactly what it's called, but i know it's right.
Old Apr 10, 2010, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jettrooper02 View Post
yes. as i said. but if your only a few dergrees from where it's good, and the gearing is so low it is unable to not wheely, it might be a good idea to use a cooling fan to bring it down a little more.
25 degrees is more than 10% over the max recommended temp, so it's hardly a just "few" degrees

it's impossible to go "so low it is unable to wheelie" since the basic premise of lower gearing is that it allows for quicker take off speeds.
Old Apr 10, 2010, 02:31 PM
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of you didn't notice, i said unable to NOT wheely. lol lol lol. next time read my post carefully.
Old Apr 10, 2010, 06:54 PM
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next time you might might try not writing "double negatives"

"A double negative occurs when two forms of negation are used in the same clause. In some languages (or varieties of a language), negative forms are consistently used throughout the sentence to express a single negation. In other languages, a double negative is used to negate a negation, and therefore, it resolves to a positive."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_negative

roflol
Old Apr 10, 2010, 08:37 PM
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next time you might might try not writing "double negatives"

"A double negative occurs when two forms of negation are used in the same clause. In some languages (or varieties of a language), negative forms are consistently used throughout the sentence to express a single negation. In other languages, a double negative is used to negate a negation, and therefore, it resolves to a positive."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_negative

roflol
Can't see a ''double ban'' being a positive in any way, shape or form.
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Thread derailment. Sorry.
Last edited by Jonathan Bradbury; Aug 18, 2010 at 05:03 PM.
Old Apr 11, 2010, 12:08 PM
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don't be, that was very good to point out.
Old Apr 12, 2010, 02:12 AM
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I used a small fan on my mini revo, I have it rather aggresively geared and I will say that although it does not cool it down drastically the important thing to factor in is that it provides a "constant" airflow over the heatsink. I had some temp shutdowns before using the heatsink and fan. After using the heatsink and fan, I had much longer run times before any heat interferance. Using a fan never hurts.
Old Apr 16, 2010, 12:35 PM
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Could binding in the drive train cause temps to be hot? Maybe the slipper clutch adjustment?
Old Apr 17, 2010, 02:43 PM
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Could binding in the drive train cause temps to be hot? Maybe the slipper clutch adjustment?
I'd have been happy to help, but I got
Old Apr 20, 2010, 11:12 PM
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Wow, sorry you could not get an answer to a simple question.

Yes, you want your drivetrain to be as free as possible. That is why in considering the best possible "gear mesh" is the closest to your motor as a source of possible "binding."
Make sure everything moves freely and you will run with minimal heat. Next step is gearing and then voltage.
Old May 19, 2010, 07:58 PM
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Update


Finally got some time to play today. Same set-up, except using a cooling fan for the ESC. I did not run it till it went into thermal shutdown or low voltage cut-off. About a 20 minute run then checked the temps.

The motor was 190deg F, Esc was at 135f and batt was at 92f.

I think what happened before was that I ran it after the low voltage cut off had cut power to 50%. The manual also says that the ESC will go into thermal shutdown, level one cuts power to 50%, level two shuts the motor off.

My Question, are these new temps "OK" after a 20 minute run.
Old May 19, 2010, 08:49 PM
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Only temp I would really worry about trying to bring down is the motor. Get yourself a wraparound heatsink to help disipate the heat. This will at least help pull the heat away from the heat sensitive components. Your ESC temp is good and batt is not bad.

Strange thing that I have wondered for a while now is why I had setups when I first started with rc that ran lipos that were warm, but now they run cool. I wonder if this is because I don't use small wires anymore? What size wires are on your lipo?\

Your real test will be in the heat of summer, what your temps will be then. I wonder.

Good Luck.


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