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Sep 10, 2012, 02:57 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firatp
I could connect 3 sensors at one time with pictured gadget.
I connected barometric, airspeed and FY30 translator at the same time. All of them run perfect.

I bought it from fpvcenter.com

Cheers
Attachment 5145938
Oh... jeez... that's a great find! I just soldered up a cable to connect my FY30, altimeter and airspeed sensors!
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Sep 10, 2012, 03:00 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq
The wind had nothing to do with your inability to turn and your stall. The plane has no idea it's in wind when it's flying. The plane got far away from you and it was heavy. But you'd know this if you got some flying experience first. You're just fighting yourself trying to learn this way.

I wish you luck, really. But sometimes people who don't want to learn from other's experience quit the hobby in frustration. I hope you are able to persevere! It's a fun hobby!
You aren't wrong - I take total responsibility for taking the plunge. I have 4 multirotors, one with FPV gear, but this is my first plane. I should learn on a lighter, less-expensive plane. I should learn how to make a downwind turn into a gusting headwind. I lost a $75 used camera and maybe a $5 BEC. I had two witnesses who found it hilarious and I have video of the event. That's $80 for entertainment for 3 people, not much more than taking in a movie!
Sep 10, 2012, 03:10 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by viper522
You aren't wrong - I take total responsibility for taking the plunge. I have 4 multirotors, one with FPV gear, but this is my first plane. I should learn on a lighter, less-expensive plane. I should learn how to make a downwind turn into a gusting headwind. I lost a $75 used camera and maybe a $5 BEC. I had two witnesses who found it hilarious and I have video of the event. That's $80 for entertainment for 3 people, not much more than taking in a movie!
Well, I'm glad to hear it. It sounds like you'll stay in the hobby, then. Yeah... witnesses... a lot of help they are! $80... not too bad.

Sorry to be hard on you. I had a buddy who bought an E-flight SR-120. I tried to talk him out of it, but he wouldn't listen. It put him off the hobby for almost a year! Fortunately he's back at it with a 130x! I just hate to see people put off a fun hobby when they could enjoy it. But it sounds like you're well into RC and can take care of yourself.
Sep 10, 2012, 04:35 PM
Registered User
I'm trying to replace the old burned current sensor with a new one.
I've bought an ACS756 based PCB (http://www.ebay.es/itm/230828719406?...ht_1613wt_1414).

It has 4 outputs:
- V+
- GND
- Vout
- Vsense

For what I can see, V+, GND and Vout are the same outputs from the IC Current Sensor (http://www.allegromicro.com/Products...Cs/ACS756.aspx).
However, V+ and GND are connect by a "BC 104" (transistor?, mind me, I'm learning electronics too!), and they seem to affect Vout somehow.

Vsense seems to be directly connected to the pads (current).

Questions is: how should I connect this to the DOSD?
I guess GND is GND on DOSD, V+ is V2 on DOSD, and Vout is Vsense on DOSD? (I don't think Vsense from the PCB should be connected to Vsense on DOSD).
Sep 10, 2012, 06:17 PM
Registered User
Why don't you contact John (jmstech1@gmail.com) and get a new current sensor right from the source - than you don't have to worry that your DOSD could burn :-)
Sep 10, 2012, 08:36 PM
Registered User
rotormonkey's Avatar
flyandi: My phone is a Samsung andriod, but it's running firmware v2.1.x. Doesn't meet the requirements. I've no idea what the screen resolution is either, I'm guessing probably not 800x600 (or whatever the requirement was).

Here's another question. A little earlier in the thread I was having problems with interference on the RC side. I found that disconnecting the current sensor solved the problem even though I was already powering my video stuff from a different battery than the RC stuff.

Somebody had suggested adding an LC filter to the current sensor so I could get it working. My question is - why does the current sensor have 3 wires? One signal, one power, one ground. Are the power and ground wires only for powering the DOSD from the flight pack? Since I'm not doing that anyway, could I potentially just remove those two wires and use the signal only in an effort to remove the interference the video stuff is causing?

If not, if I'm going to use the LC filter, would I filter the power and ground? Or filter the signal line?
Sep 10, 2012, 11:47 PM
Registered User
cody069's Avatar
Anyone use the dragon osd gps with a my fly dream tracker?
Sep 11, 2012, 04:44 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by cody069
Anyone use the dragon osd gps with a my fly dream tracker?
yep, works fine
Sep 11, 2012, 05:45 AM
hey whats burning?
metalbender4by's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cody069
Anyone use the dragon osd gps with a my fly dream tracker?
yep I'll second that. It works great.
Sep 11, 2012, 05:51 AM
Registered User
cody069's Avatar
Cool.....Thanks guys
Sep 11, 2012, 09:53 AM
Just clumsy. Oh, forgetful too
MikeTheCrash's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotormonkey
...

Here's another question. A little earlier in the thread I was having problems with interference on the RC side. I found that disconnecting the current sensor solved the problem even though I was already powering my video stuff from a different battery than the RC stuff.

Somebody had suggested adding an LC filter to the current sensor so I could get it working. My question is - why does the current sensor have 3 wires? One signal, one power, one ground. Are the power and ground wires only for powering the DOSD from the flight pack? Since I'm not doing that anyway, could I potentially just remove those two wires and use the signal only in an effort to remove the interference the video stuff is causing?

If not, if I'm going to use the LC filter, would I filter the power and ground? Or filter the signal line?
current sensor's three wires are ground, current (middle one on the plug) and voltage

there must be almost zero RF coming out of the current sensor so if you have interference when plugging it in, what else is connected to it? your ESC?
Sep 11, 2012, 06:53 PM
Team Basement-RC
Tracks's Avatar
So is anyone using DragonOSD with an ezUHF receiver? I want to do some testing, but I'm finding posts that say an analog converter is required to get RSSI working properly? Anyone have any experience?
Sep 11, 2012, 08:09 PM
Registered User
fixandflydan's Avatar
Is "throttle step" and "throttle gain" the same thing?
Does throttle step have to be greater than 0 for dosd to control throttle?
Sep 11, 2012, 08:16 PM
Registered User
rotormonkey's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTheCrash
current sensor's three wires are ground, current (middle one on the plug) and voltage

there must be almost zero RF coming out of the current sensor so if you have interference when plugging it in, what else is connected to it? your ESC?
I don't think you understood.. When I plug it in everything starts glitching on the RC side. I'm guessing because it's bridging the video circuit with the RC circuit so each is no longer isolated.

I already have torroid filters, and twisted wires on the vtx, gps and camera wires which are the only things connected to the OSD.

What I would like to do is find a way to get the current sensor to work without killing my RC range (I'm on 72mhz).
Sep 11, 2012, 08:28 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fixandflydan
Is "throttle step" and "throttle gain" the same thing?
Does throttle step have to be greater than 0 for dosd to control throttle?
Throttle step of 0 disables any DOSD throttle control. To have AP 'cruise control' you need to set your cruise speed, throttle mode 2, and throttle step >0 (start with ~8 and adjust as needed). The DOSD will control throttle UP TO what the throttle stick is at. It can NEVER exceed actual stick position...i.e. if you flip on AP and reduce throttle all the way then your plane will only be a glider. If you turn on AP and give it 3/4 throttle the DOSD will try to maintain the set cruise speed only up to 3/4 throttle. For failsafe AP and cruise control you need to set your throttle failsafe to or above what's needed to maintain your chosen cruise speed.

I've tried cruise control...didn't like it. Don't get me wrong, the DOSD was working the throttle to maintain, but I felt disconnected from the control loop. I found I prefer just setting my throttle to my approximate setting from comfortable cruise speed and just leave it there. This also seems to help with other AP functions, like maintaining altitude, ascending/descending to different waypoint altitudes, etc. I actually think you'll find more people prefer a set throttle vs cruise control...at least I do.


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