Multiplex Fun Cub - Page 93 - RC Groups
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Sep 17, 2010, 10:16 AM
Registered User
hobie14's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by udogigahertz
I hope, Jürgen Heilig doesn't see this - for him, the FunCub is not for beginners. But you and I, we know, that the FunCub is an excellent plane for beginners.

Udo
Hand Bags at 9.00 oclock .........

ps. no Youtube required ....

pps. I had over an hours airtime with the FC this morning .....
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Sep 17, 2010, 10:43 AM
Registered User
jeff reeves's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by udogigahertz
I hope, Jürgen Heilig doesn't see this - for him, the FunCub is not for beginners. But you and I, we know, that the FunCub is an excellent plane for beginners.

Udo
Ha Ha that is funny. This plane can be very much for beginners but also can do amost any 3d manuver. It flies inverted almost as well as upright. Knife edge flight is easy and so is torque rolls.
They did a great job designing this plane and we will never get bored with it!
J
Sep 17, 2010, 10:50 AM
Registered User
Back some time, I posted some comments about using a ice cream pop stick to reinforce the front end of the FunCub. I find this helps with motor vibration. I put a 1/16 in. plywood floor from the air inlet to about half way back (center of the wing), tight to the sides, and glue it down to the bottom of the FC floor. The pop sticks are glued to the sides, resting on the bottom floor and glued to the sides and floor. I've tried pictures, but because the plane is built, it's almost impossible to see, being buried in the plane. In essense, the structure reinforces the front end of the airplane at the canopy opening, which is a weak point. On the FC there is a horizontal rib on each side of the plane, the pop stick just fits under this rib, also reinforcing the structure. BTW, I use a Dairy Queen "Dilly Bar" stick, it just fits fine under the rib. A side benefit is it's a great base for Velcro to hold the battery. This setup really stiffens the front end.
Last edited by blinske; Sep 17, 2010 at 10:55 AM.
Sep 17, 2010, 11:34 AM
[QUOTE=blinske; BTW, I use a Dairy Queen "Dilly Bar" stick, it just fits fine under the rib. A side benefit is it's a great base for Velcro to hold the battery. This setup really stiffens the front end.[/QUOTE]

While I question the need to re-engineer/re-enforce things on this model I will never question the wisdom of eating plenty of ice cream in order to acquire the materials.

Danny
Esprit Model
Sep 17, 2010, 12:31 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by F1 Rocket
While I question the need to re-engineer/re-enforce things on this model I will never question the wisdom of eating plenty of ice cream in order to acquire the materials.

Danny
Esprit Model
Danny, it's a "win/ win" situation!
Sep 17, 2010, 12:33 PM
Registered User
N2UMK's Avatar
Build thread here is pretty good showing wing aileron/flap for Fun Cub.
http://sven.rc-madmen.com/?p=1563
or here;
http://www.fpv-flieger.de/component/...multiplex.html

Pat
Sep 17, 2010, 12:34 PM
Registered User
jeff reeves's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by blinske
Danny, it's a "win/ win" situation!
for my mid section it isn't a win, win situtation LOL!
Sep 17, 2010, 01:20 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100
Prop collet slipping?

I know, it is not very likely to happen, and if it did the prop and the adapter would likely fly right off the shaft, but when you are putting almost 300 watts into the motor and the prop is working hard moving all that air around the basement, there is resistance. The shaft is twisting, the prop is resisting. If you try to imagine what it might sound like if the shaft were slipping inside the prop adapter (collet), that is what it sounded like to me. I have heard much larger shafts slipping in pulleys and that is where this comparison came from. But, as I said, I had the motor turned around and was not even using that collet type prop adapter. It just sounded like that might, to me.....

Update:
The source of the squealing, squalling, whatever, noise was the ESC timing. I just remounted the motor on my trusty 2x4 and using the Plush 30 ESC set to 'high' timing the motor ran perfectly right to the top and produced about 50 watts more than it did yesterday as well. I then set the ESC back to 'low' timing and the ugly noise returned. Just something else to keep in mind in case you should run into it.

This motor (Hacker A30-28s) should be a good one for my flying. It was turning an APC 10x5 at 9500 rpm, using 28.6 amps at 11 volts for about 325 watts. Using this tool (http://www.badcock.net/cgi-bin/powertrain/propconst.cgi) it looks like that would give me over 1250 grams thrust. It is a few amps beyond the maximum rated burst (25A for 15 seconds) but it did not start to glow, smoke or even smell bad so I don't think it will hurt it for a few seconds. I won't be trying to hover it, ever, but it should have enough to keep the Fun Cub going vertical for a little while and not burn up. We will see....
Sep 17, 2010, 04:45 PM
Registered User
tam popo's Avatar
N2UMK...thanks for those sites, they've answered most of my queries. I think I need to buy another motor cos the one I thought was OK isn't - it hasn't got the 300W recommended. The motor I was going to use is 250W, 1000Kv and is a KD type, and only a 3mm shaft. Back to the drawing board!!!
The Multiplex hinges for the flaps and ailerons aren't after-market products, so I'll hve to fabricate or source somthing as good as - or buy a FunCub. Thats an option also, just won't let the wifey find out, know what I mean??
I've also made up some parallel connectors for two 1300 3S lipos to give me 2600 3S power. This means I can use 2 separate packs to adjust the CoG to the finest etc.
Pains kicking in, got to take some drugs (legal!!)....byeeee.....
Sep 17, 2010, 04:56 PM
Registered User
tam popo's Avatar
Oh, and here's me and my fave car at another sloping site, Queens View. A great place for chucking an EZ* off and watch it soar!! My lovely Mazda 5 Takara, 7 seats, 2 wheelchairs and plenty of room for MPX Planes. Byeee.....
Sep 17, 2010, 06:39 PM
Thermal Hunter
jnoel's Avatar
[QUOTE=tam popo;16075317 Pains kicking in, got to take some drugs (legal!!)....byeeee.....[/QUOTE]

Yea but your alive...
Sep 18, 2010, 03:39 PM
Registered User
A Turnigy motor that looks promising for the Funcub, that I have not seen mentioned here, is the T4240-800. Looks like with a 12x8 and 4S it should be pretty reasonable and it does have a 5mm shaft. It is tested (on a Funcub even) quite thoroughly here: http://www.bungymania.com/imageshome...rf1.php?id=109 With 3S batteries he had to go really big on the props. I didn't realise a 15 inch prop would even clear the ground on the Funcub but I just measured it and there would still be two inches clearance as long as you do not compress the gear. Lots of power, fairly low current draw and not too heavy. But it is pretty long and wide so it might be a pretty tight fit.
Sep 18, 2010, 08:22 PM
FLYING Better Than Drugs
oldfish's Avatar
Just finished reading through this thread, picked up a fun Cub today and will try to get it ready for next week end. I will be using a Turnigy 35-30 W 40 amp speedy and 2200 3 cell bats from the post that seem like the middle of the road motor, also have setting around a 35-42 that I had in my Gemini and it was like a rocket. ( But only if the 3530 cant keep up)

Bob
Sep 19, 2010, 12:28 AM
Registered User

my fun cub


Here is my Fun Cub. HS55 for aileron and flaps, hs 81 rudder and elevator. Eflite 480. Having loasd of fun. There are already 8 or more in the local club.

Take a look at the custom motor mount. fits perfectly. if anyone is interested, I am considering selling them. $20 plus shipping (UPS) PM if there is an interest.
Last edited by SafetyChain; Sep 19, 2010 at 12:54 AM.
Sep 19, 2010, 02:48 PM
Registered User
BJM-Maxx's Avatar
I finally maidened my Fun Cub today. With 280W power input it really has quite a bit of power. One question, I had never flown with flaps before and it took a while to figure out the keep the nose down when using the flaps or it gets really squirrely. At 90 degrees it seemed to fly a bit worse than at around 70 degrees. At 70, I seemed to have more lift than at 90. Anyone else tried to find an ideal lower flap position?


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