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Mar 09, 2010, 09:27 PM
Parkflyer Maniac
scadavid2000's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by CornelP
You could try this:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=oct-oc9204
BTW, the metal ring around the motor, was it not a flux ring? Removing it decreases the efficiency of the motor...
That's a gret link they do have some cool stuff. As for the flux ring I've read mixed reviews I've heard people say they are beneficial because they complete the whole circuit via magnetism and I've heard other's say it is not absolutely nessesary. Either way I did not dispose of it and it would not be a bad idea to do a run with it and one without one; not that I'm sure I would notice any difference in the power but it's worth the try.
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Apr 01, 2010, 10:29 PM
Registered User
Hi Guys, thank you for taking the time to read my post. I just officially joined these forums, though I’ve been lurking in the shadows for a while , lots of useful information and helpful members on here. I have this boat and I plan to do a few mild mods to it, just to play around, I got enough old car gear lyin around, I figure I could put something together that’s more functional than stock.
My question is about the stock battery that comes with this boat. I have a Triton EQ charger that can do NiCads, can I use my Triton charger to charge this monster? I notice that the “base” that the battery docks into is connected to the adapter via a tamiya like connector. If I can charge this battery, can I just hook the tamiya plug into my power squid? I'm not looking at the battery right now so im not sure if the mah are listed on it, if they arent does someone know?
Thanks in advance for any information people can share on this.
Apr 01, 2010, 11:45 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Hi Chevy Dude, and welcome to the forums.

To answer your question: No you cannot.

I also have a Triton and tried connecting the battery charging base via the Molex (aka Tamiya) connector. But it will not work because it is not a direct connection. That base has some sort of electronics in it, and the Triton will not work through it.

What I did, was poke a paper clip down alongside the metal tab on the battery itself. One for each metal tab (pos & neg). I then used a charge harness I made that has alligator clips, and I clipped to the paper clips. I was then able to use my Triton charger. Just set your charger to "Auto" and let it do the work for you. It will cut off at the appropriate time.
Apr 03, 2010, 09:10 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmot
Hi Chevy Dude, and welcome to the forums.

To answer your question: No you cannot.

I also have a Triton and tried connecting the battery charging base via the Molex (aka Tamiya) connector. But it will not work because it is not a direct connection. That base has some sort of electronics in it, and the Triton will not work through it.

What I did, was poke a paper clip down alongside the metal tab on the battery itself. One for each metal tab (pos & neg). I then used a charge harness I made that has alligator clips, and I clipped to the paper clips. I was then able to use my Triton charger. Just set your charger to "Auto" and let it do the work for you. It will cut off at the appropriate time.
Thank you Kmot,
So technically it can be done, just not how I had previously mentioned. I thought this may be the case as there is that LED in the dock that lets you know when the battery is done. Perhaps I'll modify the dock so its a direct line from that plug to the tabs that connect to the battery. I also just realized the batt is a NiMh and not a NiCd, anyone know the Mah? Thanks again for the quick reply, have a nice holiday all.

-Brad
Apr 03, 2010, 11:43 AM
RTF only for now!!!
Greg_Vincent's Avatar
Brad, if you have the same boat, the battery should be the same as the picture in post #1. 600Mah, NiCd. Unless New Bright has upgraded what they provide with this model.
May 12, 2010, 08:14 PM
Parkflyer Maniac
scadavid2000's Avatar
I decided to abandon the watercooling and go a different way. I was noticing that starting from zero the boat splashed at first then as it started moving and the nose started moving up then the prop gripped the water and then sped up without splashing because the prop was now fully submerged. I believe this could have caused in part the motor to heat up so much. I decided to build a tray so I could move the battery back. This way the weight can be shifted backwards and hopefully help wit the problem. Only testing will tell if this will work.

To build the tray I used carbon fiber sticks and then a fiberglass cloth over them to build a sturdy, yet very lightweight platform to put the battery. Since I do not want water on the battery I though keeping higher up would be better just in case.
May 12, 2010, 08:27 PM
Parkflyer Maniac
scadavid2000's Avatar
The other mod I did was add navi lights. It looks awesome with them and they are real bright. Haven't tested the new mods yet but hoping to do so sometime soon.
May 13, 2010, 02:40 PM
Registered User
Switch the nav lights front to back and you'll be all set!
May 05, 2011, 03:23 PM
Registered User
Predreadnut's Avatar
What happened??? Did the aft mounted battery tray help?
May 05, 2011, 03:28 PM
Registered User
good job redo the boat
Mar 04, 2012, 12:56 AM
NaN
Andy2No's Avatar
Would it be hard to convert this to direct drive?

I assume that's a reduction gearbox so you'd need a very high rpm motor to run it at a lower voltage. I'd prefer to run one on a 6 cell NiCd or a 6V lead acid. Anything over 12V would mean a more expensive ESC.
Mar 05, 2012, 09:33 PM
Parkflyer Maniac
scadavid2000's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy2No
Would it be hard to convert this to direct drive?

I assume that's a reduction gearbox so you'd need a very high rpm motor to run it at a lower voltage. I'd prefer to run one on a 6 cell NiCd or a 6V lead acid. Anything over 12V would mean a more expensive ESC.
Andy,

I gave it a couple of runs and everything went very well. Repositioning the battery on to the new tray sure made a very big difference in handling.

To answer your question there is a reduction gearbox. You would have to remove it and find a way to use a sleeve and an extension or simply find a motor with the right size shaft to re-use the gear in place. You'd be surprised how cheap ESC's are nowadays. Depending on the KV motor you choose you would have to then select the number of cells to use as well; that will depend on different things such as the current draw, desired speed and also on the boat's design because it may not handle the higher speeds too well.

See this ESC for example: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7360
Mar 06, 2012, 02:54 AM
NaN
Andy2No's Avatar
Thanks, scadavid2000.

I was wondering if the shaft was down low in the hull and it meant you couldn't put a motor directly on the end of it. Is yours direct drive then?

I thought I saw one of these on ebay, which is why I was asking. It turned out to be the 18" version though, with one rudder and 6V power (4xAA cells, I think), so I decided not to bother. I could get one of those small ones new for around $50, the last time I checked.

I'll keep an eye out for the larger one that this thread is about.
Aug 30, 2012, 04:45 PM
obserwator
anybody knows where can I get a new rudder for my New Bright 28" R/C Sea Ray Boat ? Many thx!
Dec 23, 2012, 10:59 PM
Vintage RC buff
tokdl's Avatar
Added a little detail to the cabin. Waiting on a 1:12 scale flat screen TV, a 1:12 scale faucet for the sink, a 1:12 scale fishing pole and a Danforth anchor. Adding registration numbers as well. Definitely going with LEDs just like the previous poster.

Will soon be replacing the factory elec. with ESC with reverse, DPS, new 540 motor alum. with heat sink sleeve and brass prop.

Thank you guys so much for the excellent ideas and info. This is my first RC boat.
Last edited by tokdl; Dec 23, 2012 at 11:01 PM. Reason: grammar


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