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Feb 24, 2010, 08:51 AM
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vintage1's Avatar
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New Product

Frog REDWING re drawn and kitted..

nice little 18" rubber job.

24.95 is the price. This is a total makeover, fully laser cut, and pretty much complete.
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Feb 28, 2010, 03:54 PM
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Well it was a dull windy wet cold Sunday..and I had this one to build..and it nearly is!

Usual 'where's F13', Bugger! what happened to F14 as well. and blast F1 has tenons where F7 has tenons, and mortices likewise. And that bit is a shade too big..' but armed with a sanding block, it all came together fairly well.

Looks like flying weight will be 1 3/4 oz or so. For what should have been a 6" prop (messed up the kit list: it has 7" in it).

Now bearing in mind its 45 years since I built a rubber model, can anyone tell me whether I should cover it in..

- Tissue and dope?
- Solite?
- Litespan?

And whether or not a single strand of 1/4" rubber is a sensible motor?
Feb 28, 2010, 04:46 PM
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gossie's Avatar
Tissue and dope without doubt, and a loop of 1/4 should be fine. Don't forget to 'lube' it.......Castor oil will do, or something that does not attack rubber.

A single coat of 50/50 dope and thinners will be enough too.
Feb 28, 2010, 05:51 PM
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damn. I should have. I did it in litespan. Its sort of OK, but its cracked the wing in shrinkage a couple of times.

Oh well. I'll test glide the first calm day we get that isn't raining, and trim out the warps.

Not sure I've got castor oil. Silicone spray?

Any flight that climbs to more than 15 feet and doesn't wreck it, will be a success.
Feb 28, 2010, 05:51 PM
If you can find any of the colored food wrap (Reynolds, Saran, etc) you may wish to try it. Heat shrinks with a hair dryer, not affected by humidity, weighs less than doped tissue.

But doped tissue is prettier to some. I think if you go to Small Flying Arts you'll be able to track down using Future Floor Finish instead of dope. Works great, it's cheap and doesn't smell. It's acrylic based.

The best rubber lube you can get is at those "Adult" Lingerie and Lace type stores. It's expensive but a bottle will last a long time.
Feb 28, 2010, 05:55 PM
If you use silicone spray, go to a Janitorial and Restaurant supply and get the "Food Grade". Otherwise shop for "Pure Silicone Lube".
Some of it comes with petrochemicals in it that will attack rubber.
Feb 28, 2010, 07:11 PM
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gossie's Avatar
A lot of guys seem to use silicone spray.
I like to use rubber grease that I get in a tube from the car spare parts places. It's used when the brake cylinders are done on your car. Your local friendly mechanic may give you or sell you a little with your next oil change and grease??????
Have been told KY jelly or similar works well too.

ESAKI Lite tissue is the ONLY thing for these sort of models.....IMHO.
Feb 28, 2010, 08:48 PM
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BMatthews's Avatar
I don't like the silly-cone spray for one reason. Once it's on you can't ever tie another knot in the darn stuff. Also don't be surprised if you can get away with a single loop of 3/16 for a gentler climb and longer cruise that fits smaller confined fields better. When you keep it lower they don't drift quite as far. Also a touch less risk of losing it to the thermal gods.

The castor oil you would want to use for lubing the rubber isn't the degummed engine castor. Medical grade from the pharmacy is just fine and easy to get. The other stuff would work of course but it's overkill since your rubber won't be getting hot enough to take advantage of the degummed status of the engine rated oil.... or at least I HOPE it won't get that hot....
Mar 01, 2010, 11:59 AM
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Built mine a couple of years ago from plans on the House of Frog website

Don't recall using much more than a sheet of 1/16" for the whole thing. Esaki light tissue & low shrink dope, prop is an Ikara 6" & power from 4 strands of 1/8", total made up motor length 9". Total cost less than 3

On 500 - 600 stretch wound turns it flies beautifully & it glides!
Mar 01, 2010, 08:25 PM
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vintage1's Avatar
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Didn't get a chance today. But very encouraging all round. Thanks Guys.

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