Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 01:47 PM
Parke_ParkeFlyer is offline
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Originally Posted by nightfox7 View Post
... i use VERY little water, because the more water you use, the more expansion and bubbles you get, and to me, that means a weaker joint, and most of the time i don't even use water, i just smear a little on both surfaces, the breathe hot air on it. Like you would to clean your glasses, and that seems to be plenty...
I think it might depend on how much humidity is in the air. Georgia, if I recall correctly, is pretty humid so you may not need to add as much. In central Texas, where I'm from, it's humid, but I still need to add water. The water activates the glue causing the bubbles and expansion and also the stickiness. Since this is a chemical process, I was always under the impression that the bubbles and expansion were key to the bonding, therefore a significant amount of water is needed. But I could be totally wrong about this.
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 01:58 PM
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I add water to gorilla glue. I just monitor the expansion for the first five minutes and keep pushing the expansion back into the foam. I just let the excess water dry off through evaporation if I used too much.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 04:54 PM
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I also think GG is great for the shock cord (wet string method) and have never had any problem with that. I've also used it to fill in gaps where a chunk of foam used to be, but just needs filling in now. I use GG white, and to wet the foam, I have water in a small pump-spray bottle like the one in the attached image. One spray in any area is plenty.

But I also have not used it for areas that are going to flex a lot, like for the spars. I can tell you that my bro-in-law did a Reaper with GG white for the spars, and after 3-5 solid crashes, had plenty of separation, and ended up gutting the wing and re-doing it with hot glue.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parke_ParkeFlyer View Post
I think it might depend on how much humidity is in the air. Georgia, if I recall correctly, is pretty humid so you may not need to add as much. In central Texas, where I'm from, it's humid, but I still need to add water. The water activates the glue causing the bubbles and expansion and also the stickiness. Since this is a chemical process, I was always under the impression that the bubbles and expansion were key to the bonding, therefore a significant amount of water is needed. But I could be totally wrong about this.
About the humidity, this is true, it is a little known fact that we do not get our water by drinking; rather we just breathe.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 09:07 PM
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Is the Grim Reaper hard to build? When I got my 35 inch pop wing I had to glue the two halves together, take a knife and cut grooves for the reinforcing carbon/fiberglass rods, and glue in the servos.

How much harder is the grim reaper? Is it difficult to put on that film covering that goes over the Grim Reaper?

Also, do you have to fly it with those side wings on? On my pop wing the only thing I don't like is those side wings.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Allen, I didn't know you could use a truck battery in a GR XL
I didn't know either but I plan on using two.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Is the Grim Reaper hard to build? When I got my 35 inch pop wing I had to glue the two halves together, take a knife and cut grooves for the reinforcing carbon/fiberglass rods, and glue in the servos.

How much harder is the grim reaper? Is it difficult to put on that film covering that goes over the Grim Reaper?

Also, do you have to fly it with those side wings on? On my pop wing the only thing I don't like is those side wings.
Well, yes, you glue the halves together, install the spars, etc. on your own with the Reaper, too, but that's half the fun! Besides, CTH has some pretty dang good step-by-step .pdf instructions available on their website with lots of pictures, specific to each plane. Stick to those, and you'll be fine.

As for the winglets on the wing tips, yeah, they're pretty critical. They're what keeps the plane from wagging side to side almost uncontrollably. It would be like a passenger plane trying to fly without its upright tail section. Doesn't make for a smooth flight, if any flight at all.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:04 PM
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Is the Grim Reaper hard to build?
I wouldn't say it's hard, but it is time consuming. Especially for the first build. I feel like I could build a second one in about half the time. I was hoping to I could do it in a long weekend, but it ended up taking a few weekends and several evenings.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:49 PM
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I wouldn't say it's too hard either, I'm in the process of building mine right now, however it's my fourth cth wing so I kind of get the hang of it. Check out some fin designs others have used, you may find them more appealing and they still get the job done.

Eric
Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:50 PM
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White GG is slightly flexible compared to the yellow stuff.

I simply used a spray bottle to lightly mist the parts needing to be glued. Usually the water gets pushed out as the parts are pushed together. Never have had issues with that method, and I use that stuff in just about every build.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:52 PM
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I also use a full size iron and put one of those plastic iron covers on it to make it easier and less likely to melt I guess.
Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:58 PM
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Speaking of builds and our hot glue or gorilla glue. I went ahead and glued the top spar in with white gorilla glue and the bottom with hot glue. Needless to say I used quite a bit more hot glue than gorilla glue.
Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:04 AM
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Wrong pic
Old Dec 12, 2012, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Is the Grim Reaper hard to build? When I got my 35 inch pop wing I had to glue the two halves together, take a knife and cut grooves for the reinforcing carbon/fiberglass rods, and glue in the servos.

How much harder is the grim reaper? Is it difficult to put on that film covering that goes over the Grim Reaper?
.
The Grim Reaper comes as a KIT, not an ARF. Not everybody likes to build. Before you buy, make sure you read the instruction manual, which is on-line, to make sure you understand what is involved, and what tools and supplies you'll need.

That said, it's not like the balsa kits of old. My friend, who has never built a model plane in his life, and knew really nothing about the motors, electronics and servos, built a CTH Hercules, which is a much more involved kit and had no problems. I think it took him about a week, after work in the evenings. For the laminate, he ignored all my suggestions, and bought some kind of travel iron at Target, of all places, and it worked fine for ironing the laminate onto the wing. Of course, he made a few mistakes, but nothing serious, and the plane flew great on its maiden flight.
Old Dec 13, 2012, 01:50 PM
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Gglue


I have used the Amber GGlue type PU glues in past. I think the coloured PU glues are UV unstable after time and goes brittle or crumbles. I think hot glue or Goop stays flexible and holds onto sanded spars better.

H


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