Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old May 14, 2012, 01:11 PM
Tom Eutsler is online now
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Storm Chaser


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Old May 14, 2012, 09:24 PM
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Little fun with the Reaper

Low Altitude is Boring (5 min 20 sec)
Old May 15, 2012, 10:01 PM
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here's my first FPV flight with the Albatross. This thing is fun!!

Albatross FPV maiden (1 min 5 sec)
Old May 16, 2012, 10:46 AM
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I had difficulty installing the spars on my Titan using hot glue. I also used White Gorilla glue and tried to contain it with painters tape but didn't have much luck there either since I got the foam wet for the Gorilla glue to work. I just wasn't happy with the results.

I decided to try something different on my Grim Reaper. I used the White Gorilla glue and painters tape again, but this time I clamped the wing to a board with a piece of aluminum angle. This time I was very pleased with the results. You can run your hand over the spar location and can't even tell it is there. Well, I was pleased until I clamped down the second spar on the top of the wing and I realized that I had forgotten the bent wire reinforcements at the cross spar, and they were sitting right in front of me. I was so bummed. Now I will have to cut the nice finished foam to install the wire. I did remember it at the nose though... Oh well, I will get it right on the bottom.
Last edited by mdmowrey; May 16, 2012 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Grammar
Old May 16, 2012, 01:00 PM
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Thats a good idea with the aluminum and clamps. I actually got the tape to stick pretty well to the foam, but the GG kept trying to push it up. Using the clamps would have saved a lot of time watching over it and kept my fingers from getting glued to each other.
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Old May 16, 2012, 02:22 PM
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+1 on the clamping idea - I wish I had thought of that or had known about it a week and a half ago...

Mine turned out pretty messy - oh well, you live and learn I suppose
Old May 16, 2012, 03:05 PM
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Another +1 on the clamp. Great idea!

On my next Reaper I'll definitely try this. On my current Reaper I've found that after a couple of crashes that a slightly bowed leading edge is the least of my problems.

-Mike
Old May 16, 2012, 06:00 PM
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I really don't seem to have that much trouble with the hot glue. If it's hot enough to keep melting fast, you can get the whole spar in, although it is a bit easier with an extra pair of hands. Another small bead over the top, smooth it out with a wet finger or tongue depressor, and when it's all said and done, the extra weight is only two, maybe three ounces. I know, we just measured two mid-build reapers at the same point, one 100% gg, the other hot glue for everything but the shock cord.

Not to mention the cleanliness during build, and a bit of flexibility on crashes. Never done a side-by-side crash test, but the gg seems more brittle, whereas the hot glue gives a bit
Old May 16, 2012, 07:46 PM
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I used hot glue to make sure the spars were seated, and then covered with GG. If I had a full size hot glue gun, I might have tried it. The small one cant melt inside the gun fast enough for bigger jobs.
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Old May 16, 2012, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCleary.11 View Post
I used hot glue to make sure the spars were seated, and then covered with GG. If I had a full size hot glue gun, I might have tried it. The small one cant melt inside the gun fast enough for bigger jobs.
I tried this method on the last wing I built, except I used CA instead of hot glue. I laid a line of GG in the spar slot, but left 2 or 3 bare spots. I dropped a few drops of CA in each of those clear spots, put in the spars and then sprayed some kicker on those spots. Anchored them in real nicely. Then I misted water along the length of the spar to activate the previously laid GG, then covered with shipping tape to minimize bubbling. After removing the tape I had to do a bit of sanding, but those spars are in there rock solid.

I too was afraid that if I used hot glue, the end where I started would cool and harden by the time I was ready to lay in the spars. Kinda the downside to using low-temp glue, it seems to cool and harden faster.
Old May 16, 2012, 10:49 PM
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Look Ma, No Hands


I figured out a way to use a strip of aluminum to hold the center spar as well. This time it is a flexible piece of stock that conforms to the shape of the wing. Everything is clamped to a board under the wing to prevent defomation to the wing. There was a bit of overflow at the center but that should be an easy clean up.

I like to "flood" the foam with water prior to adding the Gorilla Glue. The water gets in to the voids of the foam and helps the Gorilla Glue expand out in to the voids as well. There are actually areas in the empty spar slots on the bottom of the wing that the Gorilla Glue filled in due to it transmitting through the foam.
Old May 17, 2012, 12:38 AM
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Great idea on the top-aft spar. that one was kind of a pain.

Thanks to Lee and folks at CTH again. I am having a blast with my reaper. I will eventually get some shots of night flights up, this thing looks great all lit up. I have actually noticed people driving in circles around the block while i fly and even had people park and watch. I ended up burning up my 3530 1700 out when i put an 8x6 on it. oops. Its replacement should arrive by Friday, and back up into the air it goes!
Old May 17, 2012, 09:13 AM
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Again, I am happy with the clamping results. The spar follows the contours of the wing quite well, and I didn't get one bit of glue on my fingers.
Old May 17, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ashdec87 View Post
Nice video. Now pull those hot glue strings off your FPV camera!
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Old May 17, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by McCleary.11 View Post
Thats a good idea with the aluminum and clamps. I actually got the tape to stick pretty well to the foam, but the GG kept trying to push it up. Using the clamps would have saved a lot of time watching over it and kept my fingers from getting glued to each other.
I have had trouble in the past with that problem also. I tried not useing any water and seems to cure a little slower but doesent foam up as much and push the spar out. I Still put a piece of tape or iron on a strip of covering over the spar. give it a try and see what you think.


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