has anyone done any diy water cooling for motors ? - RC Groups
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Feb 10, 2010, 12:46 PM
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has anyone done any diy water cooling for motors ?

if so please post pics
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Feb 10, 2010, 12:50 PM
USA'd ex Brit
toesup's Avatar
Like this?..

Feb 10, 2010, 12:54 PM
"day ain't over yet-"
der kapitan's Avatar
For the record, the folks at K&S offer malleable tubing in both brass and aluminum, that works great for making up cooling coils, but not all hobby shops carry them.
Feb 10, 2010, 12:55 PM
USA'd ex Brit
toesup's Avatar
Tubing Kap?...

Bahhhh... Arrow5 just uses water....

Feb 10, 2010, 01:03 PM
"day ain't over yet-"
der kapitan's Avatar
Originally Posted by toesup
Tubing Kap?... Bahhhh... Arrow5 just uses water....
Ermm---, I think he added tubing since then Toes---.
Feb 10, 2010, 02:11 PM
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CornelP's Avatar
...or this:
Feb 10, 2010, 02:59 PM
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ClassicBoats's Avatar
Does this qualify for water cooling? There's plenty of water and it was mighty cold!
Feb 10, 2010, 04:15 PM
Boaters are nice people.
Hi Morton,

I added a few pictures of motorcooling.

When the motor doesn't have to work hard (working within it's design limits), cooling is often not required, I'm thinking scale models.
As soon as a motor has to work harder, in a tug, for longer periods of time, (water)cooling is a good thing.

Most of the time a simple coils will be sufficient, I even have models running with just brushtab cooling, it cools where the heat is generated; at the brushes.

For serious overvolting the jacket and brushtab combo is a must.

The last three pictures show a modified fan motor from a car, this 12V motor will run on 24 cells NiMH in a MTB hull turning a 40 mm submerged prop.
The brusholders and can are cooled.

Regards, Jan.
Feb 10, 2010, 06:29 PM
Registered User
thanks for those pics

i did something similar to pic 2 tonight

i'll see how it works in the lake and report back )
Feb 11, 2010, 02:48 AM
Boaters are nice people.
What motor in what boat are we talking about?

If you only made two brass pipes on the fluxring, the cooling is marginal and the motor will still heat up substantually, specially in a small closed race boat hull.
For the motor in the picture this was no problem, as it has very soft brushes, that lasted 6-10 races, before the motor had to be replaced, so damage to overheating did hardly get a chance to be noticed...

If you're cooling a motor that will have to run for several hours, like the one in my scale tug, this type of cooling will not be sufficient and the motormagnets will suffer and loose power.

Regards, Jan.
Feb 11, 2010, 05:07 PM
Registered User
Copper tubing at the hardware store for refridgerator water supply.
Last edited by TugboatTodd; Feb 11, 2010 at 05:14 PM.

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