Originally Posted by pavcon

I got those capacitors but never used one till now..

If anyone can demonstrate that a little capacitor -such as the one shown- can help prevent a low corrent/voltage condition to the rx, please step forward.
If is question about this, contact HH services and ask them if these can help cure a low voltage condition.

Oh, sorry, I thought he meant the flux capacitor!

Set a course for wishful thinking land--full warp speed -

Originally Posted by richard hanson

If anyone can demonstrate that a little capacitor -such as the one shown- can help prevent a low corrent/voltage condition to the rx, please step forward.
If is question about this, contact HH services and ask them if these can help cure a low voltage condition.

I was able to kind of simulate what they do... I added the capacitor on my servo tester (it has 3 servo outputs)
I had battery on the input and one servo + the capacitor on the out put and set the movement to auto so that the tester would automatically move the servo back and forth.
without the cap when you unplug the battery the servo stops.. normally...
however with the cap when you unplug the battery the servo continue moving for a couple of degrees more. ..
the capacitor also being a battery will be able to normalise the voltage..
for the computer guys... it acts like a UPS on the computer.

Originally Posted by gjr.

What are the shortcomings ,missing features, and any notable differences that apply to the dx10t versus the dx18? Thanks.

The DX10t does not include the sequencer, nor a few other "secret" features that won't be announced until the DX18 ships.

In the current version the DX10t does not give access to Aux6 and Aux7 on a 12-channel receiver.

The DX18 does not include Auto-Trim, plus anything else related to the mechanical features (i.e., number of switches and pots).

Andy

Originally Posted by pavcon

I was able to kind of simulate what they do... I added the capacitor on my servo tester (it has 3 servo outputs)
I had battery on the input and one servo + the capacitor on the out put and set the movement to auto so that the tester would automatically move the servo back and forth.
without the cap when you unplug the battery the servo stops.. normally...
however with the cap when you unplug the battery the servo continue moving for a couple of degrees more. ..
the capacitor also being a battery will be able to normalise the voltage..
for the computer guys... it acts like a UPS on the computer.

It would be nice if there was something like a 100 mah battery for this purpose, which you could just plug in the receiver...

Originally Posted by struggleforlife

It would be nice if there was something like a 100 mah battery for this purpose, which you could just plug in the receiver...

There is simply no substiute for a proper , low impedance battery supply - - No quick fixes such as an additional small battery or a capacitor -even a BIG one .
Buy borrow or steal a good voltmeter which reads in tenths of volts and stick it in the rx - then try various batteries/ caps/ whatever and with servos providing a realistic load for YOUR application - run the system and watch the voltage depressions.
Batteries with high impedance or regs with poor power handling will cause problems.
Caps are not a fix.

Originally Posted by struggleforlife

It would be nice if there was something like a 100 mah battery for this purpose, which you could just plug in the receiver...

just add two life batts :/

Originally Posted by pavcon

just add two life batts :/

Could you explain that a little please?
thanks
Ron

Or, use a wattmeter and carefully design your power system!

How do LiFe batteries compare to NiCad(Sanyo) and NiMh(Eneloop) batteries? Say I have 3 airborne rx packs with AA size cells (4 soldered together) and lets make them all 1800Mah in capacity. What would you expect from each type battery pack?


KKKKFL

Originally Posted by JohnathanSwift

Go to youtube and search for the HH video on this! The "floor" of the compartment is a solid piece of foam, which should also be removed when using the lipo, though it exposes an opening to the circuit board! The video shows use of an exacto knife to lift it, but I used something like a small, slotted screwdriver.

I realized the floor foam probably ought to come out for the Lipo, but then, I felt it's 'give' and just played around with smooshing it a bit to see how much give it would take to close the door, and if it would be too tight.

After a few minutes of pressure, and playing with the door, it all fit nicely (though snugly!) with no bulging or excessive pressure, and I figured that since I will be charging on-board, the Lipo will be in there for a good long time, that would be a good set up for me, nice and firm, no movement possible.

Originally Posted by Franco2fly

How do LiFe batteries compare to NiCad(Sanyo) and NiMh(Eneloop) batteries? Say I have 3 airborne rx packs with AA size cells (4 soldered together) and lets make them all 1800Mah in capacity. What would you expect from each type battery pack?


KKKKFL

LiFe are 3.3v per cell. The maintain a flat 3.3v per cell throughout the discharge. The hold their charge for months just like LiPos. They make excellent Tx and Rx batteries. They are the same as A123 cells. They charge quickly so you are never inconvenienced.

Sounds like an Airborne pack would require 2 batteries soldered together 6.6 (my NiCad's usually measure 5.2 off the wall wart charger overnight) Are LiFe expensive by comparison to the typical AA NiCad cell that I can purchase at the Best buy (I see 2000Mah Batteries all the time)

KKKKFL

Originally Posted by Franco2fly

Sounds like an Airborne pack would require 2 batteries soldered together 6.6 (my NiCad's usually measure 5.2 off the wall wart charger overnight) Are LiFe expensive by comparison to the typical AA NiCad cell that I can purchase at the Best buy (I see 2000Mah Batteries all the time)

KKKKFL

They come in presolderd packs. Not many people solder their own. They most often have Balancing Taps with leads to each cell. Balancing Lithium chargers like the FMA 4S and 10S balance the charge to each cell and read out the individual cell voltages. Hobbico sells the green and white LiFe brand. Thery are available at your LHS. These are flat packs. I have used those as well as EPbuddy packs which are smaller and round.

I use 2500mah packs that cost me $25 for a 2cell pack

After using NiCad and NiMh for years, charging for hours, dealing with False Peaks (NiMh) and self discharging over time (except for Eneloop), I much prefer the convenience of Lithium batteries.

My DX8 had the option for a 4000mah Tx battery, which I have been using. The newer JR DMSS XG series transmitters come with LiFe batteries as well as some of the newer Futaba transmitters.