Not recommended to simply connect bec and battery in the receiver but if you are asking for possibility of using 2 source YES it is possible with other components needed.

If you are using a BEC and you have reported voltage down to 2.6, either this was false report and needs to be clreared prior to flight or you are having BEC issues. Never had any of my BEC reported below .2 - .5 lower then what they are outputting.

Originally Posted by Kawi

Well thats simple enough! I might do that instead. I was actually thinking of getting a female end piece for the little white balancing plug of the battery and sodering it onto the sensor leads. Would that work?

It would work perfectly, because that's what I am already doing.

One advantage to this method (to me) is that if you've ever looked at lipo construction, these battery balance leads are on the same place the power leads are attached to the battery tabs, so you are measuring the voltage right at the battery, without having to worry about wire drop or anything else. This setup reminds me a bit of a four terminal bridge set up.

I happen to have previously ordered 3S, 4S, 5S and 6S extension cables (male on one side, female on the other) from a 'well-known overseas RC company,' so it was an easy matter to choose the black and red wires for each, remove the unused connector, and rest of the colored wires, and then solder to the telemetry connector to create a universal battery monitor harness for the telemetry unit.

DANGER/ CAUTION:
It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway -- one battery only - Since the red/black wires are reading the total pack voltage, then on 2S it's around 7.4, and on 3S it's 11.1, and on 4S it's 14.8, etc. So if you were to inexplicably plug two connectors of that harness into two batteries at the same time (and not just to the telemetry connector, as intended), then you WILL of course have a direct short between two different voltage packs, and therefore a wiring meltdown, at a minimum!

(Of course, if you routinely only need to monitor one battery type, then just make your harness with that one balance plug only, and no such issue will be possible.)


On another note, I am happy to report that that same 'overseas RC company' now has lipos in for the DX8 transmitter. Just got mine ordered.

1x #T4000.2S.DX8/19481 Turnigy 4000mAh Spektrum DX8 Intelligent Transmitter Pack. = $17.95

Originally Posted by tracknoob

It would work perfectly, because that's what I am already doing.

One advantage to this method (to me) is that if you've ever looked at lipo construction, these battery balance leads are on the same place the power leads are attached to the battery tabs, so you are measuring the voltage right at the battery, without having to worry about wire drop or anything else. This setup reminds me a bit of a four terminal bridge set up.

I happen to have previously ordered 3S, 4S, 5S and 6S extension cables (male on one side, female on the other) from a 'well-known overseas RC company,' so it was an easy matter to choose the black and red wires for each, remove the unused connector, and rest of the colored wires, and then solder to the telemetry connector to create a universal battery monitor harness for the telemetry unit.

DANGER/ CAUTION:
It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway -- one battery only - Since the red/black wires are reading the total pack voltage, then on 2S it's around 7.4, and on 3S it's 11.1, and on 4S it's 14.8, etc. So if you were to inexplicably plug two connectors of that harness into two batteries at the same time (and not just to the telemetry connector, as intended), then you WILL of course have a direct short between two different voltage packs, and therefore a wiring meltdown, at a minimum!

(Of course, if you routinely only need to monitor one battery type, then just make your harness with that one balance plug only, and no such issue will be possible.)


On another note, I am happy to report that that same 'overseas RC company' now has lipos in for the DX8 transmitter. Just got mine ordered.

How funny that would be Hobby King as the "well known Over Seas company"

I had all the parts needed so I made my own ac3 connector just like the one in that link. Tried it out and it works perfectly.

Hey everyone. I was wondering if anyone could help me setup a simple mix w/ my dx8. I am using 8 channel receiver on F-86 jet with air brakes. I have air brakes on aux2 and trying to mix w/ flaps. My goal is to get air brakes to deploy full at flaps position 2(full flap). The problem is I am only able to get air brakes to move incrementally with flaps. I want it to be full deployment then full retract with position 2 flap. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

It would be really helpful to know what you're starting with. Can you post your SPM file as it is now? (Rename it .TXT to RCG will accept the attachment).

Can you perhaps make a video of how you would like it to behave by assigning switches to do it manually, so we can visualize what you want better?

From you description, it sounds like you want to flip a switch into Pos 2, and have a channel go from 0% to 100% and then back to 0%. I'm not sure I understand what you're really trying to accomplish.

Andy

So where would I find the procedure to calibrate my sticks on my DX8. My throttle is off by about 4% and driving me crazy. I see a new screen in 2.03 (I have 2.04) but I do not understand how to initiate and use this new sccreen nor do I know where to find that information. I looked on Spektrum and did not see anything.. Web search does not seem to throw anything out either. Anyone know where the "instructions" are for doing this or figured out how to use the new calibrate function/screen? thanks in adavnce...

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1476084

Andy

Originally Posted by AndyKunz

It would be really helpful to know what you're starting with. Can you post your SPM file as it is now? (Rename it .TXT to RCG will accept the attachment).

Can you perhaps make a video of how you would like it to behave by assigning switches to do it manually, so we can visualize what you want better?

From you description, it sounds like you want to flip a switch into Pos 2, and have a channel go from 0% to 100% and then back to 0%. I'm not sure I understand what you're really trying to accomplish.

Andy

Thanks for the quick response Andy. Here is a video of the plane so you can see flap and airbrake in first few seconds of clip. I have flaps on flap switch and airbrakes on aux2 switch. I was just hoping to deploy airbrakes without having to use aux 2. Just like you said 0 to 100, then back to 0 all with position 2 of flap switch. Thanks for your time.

F-86 Sabre Maiden flight. (6 min 14 sec)

I'm dense, so please forgive me if my question seems stupid.

Scenario 1

WIth the flap switch in pos 0, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 1, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 2, you want the brakes at 100%.

Scenario 2

WIth the flap switch in pos 0, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 1, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 2, you want the brakes to move from 0% to 100% and back to 0%.

Now for the dumb question:

Which scenario is right?

Thanks, and please pity my denseness. It's been a long day today.

Andy

Originally Posted by AndyKunz

It would be really helpful to know what you're starting with. Can you post your SPM file as it is now? (Rename it .TXT to RCG will accept the attachment).

Can you perhaps make a video of how you would like it to behave by assigning switches to do it manually, so we can visualize what you want better?

From you description, it sounds like you want to flip a switch into Pos 2, and have a channel go from 0% to 100% and then back to 0%. I'm not sure I understand what you're really trying to accomplish.

Andy

OK. first export. Hope this works. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by AndyKunz

I'm dense, so please forgive me if my question seems stupid.

Scenario 1

WIth the flap switch in pos 0, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 1, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 2, you want the brakes at 100%.

Scenario 2

WIth the flap switch in pos 0, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 1, you want the brakes at 0%.

WIth the flap switch in pos 2, you want the brakes to move from 0% to 100% and back to 0%.

Now for the dumb question:

Which scenario is right?

Thanks, and please pity my denseness. It's been a long day today.

Andy

No problem. I appreciate your help. Scenario 1 is what I'm looking for.

OK found and read. My throttle is only 99% on the top end on the monitor and if I push hard it gets to 100%. On the bottom end it goes down to 99% also. Pulling the stick hard back still leaves it at 99%. Concern is shutting of throttle all the way off. Is this an issue? Before with the 4% I could pull throttle off but engenie would not completely stop. This started a few weeks ago on a plane that had been set up and working fine for a couple months. I "fixed" the problem by changing the throttle sub trim to 110%.. Interestingly enough my ESC would not arm the motor either until I changed the subtrim to 110%. That I think leads me to believe the ESC is getting signal saying the throttle is not at off position. .. (But I do not get any beeping at me saying throttle high like if I leave it at say 1/3 or higher up and plug plane in). Granted I have not tried the planes that I had to move the sub trim on the throttle up on. I'll try that first.. Still not sure if the calibrate should get the throttle to 100% though instead of 99% on bottom end. If someone could answer that.. (That 99% is as good as it gets) it would make me worry less.

WC -

The 99% is not a problem. When you are configuring the model, you will probably put a little over-travel in anyway. You don't need to recalibrate, you're fine.

Many ESCs need you to adjust the throttle trim all the way down to arm/power off properly. That's one of the first things I do with a new model - run the throttle trim to the bottom. You can also do this by changing the Servo Travel down to -130% but that takes more work and I'm lazy

Andy

Re-calibrate the sticks but this time do not apply any pressure when you move them near the ends. Infact you may want to put a piece of paper in between. Then after calibration you should be able to get 100% both ways. Varie the thickness of the paper if you have to, you will get it right.

Once this is done you can re-calibrate the esc throttle curve settings.

I have a thread showing how to calibrate and get 100%
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...60&postcount=1