Tragi 801 Cluster-F3X.com - Page 6 - RC Groups
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Feb 22, 2010, 04:48 PM
Registered User
R.M. Gellart's Avatar
Just a bit of dust on the digits, but worth it...

Marc
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Feb 22, 2010, 05:28 PM
isoaritfirst
isoaritfirst's Avatar
To be fair the last few models I have built
(RaceMX, Cyril, Ascot, Freestyler,Sigma, Typhoon, Vector, I could go on - Have been 2 piece wings so 2 x MPX greenies have been used.

Come to think of it I think the last 3 piece wing I installed was my Sting probably 5 years ago, and my Tragi 702 about 10 years ago and still a great model).


The Tragi has a db12 although I built that a long time ago well before I had considered what I was doing!
Feb 23, 2010, 02:43 AM
F3B
satinet's Avatar
my 704 came with the loom. I can't remember how it was solder to be honest. Very well though IIRC.
Feb 25, 2010, 01:09 PM
F3X
F3X
Registered User
F3X's Avatar
Lookin' good guys!

Lets here the flight reports!!
Feb 25, 2010, 04:34 PM
Registered User
belouder's Avatar
Did a bit of flying this past Sunday at our cow patty field. Wind 4-6 knots from the NW. Clear skies-crisp. After adding a couple of grams to the nose to get the CG at 117 (or thereabouts), I did a hand toss to check elevator. Seemed good.

Up the winch and a sort of ping at the top-underestimated how much line stretch there was and had TONS of energy when it rotated and it went up and up and up-very nice energy retention. Headed out over the valley and found a bump immediately. Switched into Thermal mode, dropped the camber slider and started turns and up it went. Seemed kinda easy. Stayed in the lift for a while till my eyes got worried and went to Reflex and boy did it scoot. Went from one end to the other in what seemed like no time and was still at eye worried alltitude. Dropped the flaps all the way to see how elevator comp was set and it just stopped. Didn't really come down, just stopped. Nice.

Brought it down and started think about landing. We're at a new field now and today we set up close to a tree line so the landing area felt cramped. Ended up doing a very short approach and turn to final and dropped the flaps-oh yeah it stops-flaps back up and extend the final to somewhere near me. Flaps back down and it stopped again-right in my hand. Very nice.

A couple of more flights told me I needed to mellow out elevator throw in Thermal mode, add more camber in launch and figure out how to throw a plane-I was doing the "almost stall" throw and it would yaw sideways and need correction. Still puckering when launching-this thing set me back!! When I finally developed enough line tension and threw it right-it tracked very nicely.

First real impressions-aircraft is very nimble-roll rate is very crisp and elevator stays active all the way down to near-stall speed. I like this as it gives me confidence "close in" to work low lift. Camber in as per instructions seemed to let me slow the craft down in turns nicely. Getting the turns flat seemd a chore so I let it hold bank more than usual and it didn't seem to affect the float-just went round and round. At 68 oz it seems to be just right-the breeze came up a bit and it didn't seem to be fazed by it-just dropped into reflex and away it went right through the breeze.

The plane really slows down in landing approach-I'll need to work on landings to get used to this. But when I was short, pulling flaps back up just allowed the plane to speed up-didn't mush and drop. I dialed out all the crow (ailerons up when flaps go down) as I found I really like the plane to just slow down with flaps rather than slow down and drop. Just found a line to the spot and regulated airspeed with flaps to make time. Very cool.

No bad habits other than my own nervousness with a new aircraft. Nice.

BK
Feb 25, 2010, 06:59 PM
Registered User
Looks very nice, but aren't 2 red/black pair of 16ga from battery to the saddle heavy & overkill? Can't imagine why one would fail & not the other without something cutting one of the wires. Very nice work though. Want too build mine?
Feb 25, 2010, 07:02 PM
Registered User
Also noticed that you only have the signal wires for 2 servos, yet have all 3 wires to the other two wing servos.
Feb 25, 2010, 07:36 PM
Registered User
R.M. Gellart's Avatar
SHV
There was some discussin earlier about redundancy, whichI would love to tell I had in mind in setting this up, but just being symetric here. The power feeds are 18 gauge, and actually, I removed 3/4oz from the wire harness from stock by doing this versus the Tragi harness (which was first class as is). Their harness was three wires each servo in the fuse, twelve 22 gauge wires which I replaced with eight wires, four, 18 gauge power leads and four, 28 gauge signal wires. I also replaced all the signal wires in the wing with 28 gauge too.

The actual RX wire hookups are as such. I talked some with Rob Glover, he is the one that gave me the direction to head this way. The plugs with only signal wires are the aileron servos, that is all I need for them since power is fed via the 18 gauge power leads to each wing. The flap leads to the RX are fully wired to supply dual feed energy to the RX to feed the elevator and rudder servos in the fuse.

I have never done this intricate a wiring harness, first to admit. But Rob knows his stuff when it comes to energy management in about anything, he made missles work for a living under some really wicked conditions. So I took his lead and not only have I got redundancy, but I also am feeding a power supply to the wing and RX with the least amount of impedance to effecient power flow possible. It really was not hard to do and I think that it will make the ship TE position more accurate.

Marc
Last edited by R.M. Gellart; Feb 26, 2010 at 04:23 AM.
Feb 25, 2010, 08:19 PM
Registered User
Thanks Marc,

I (wrongfully) assumed that you split the power feed coming from the battery - with the 18ga wires to the fuse saddle for the 4 wing servos, & also a short feed from the battery to the Rx which would power the bus for the rudder/elev servos. (That would be a shorter & more direct power feed to the Rx bus than having to go to the flaps & back to the Rx). That's what Paul Naton shows in his DVD's.

I read the above discussion about redundancy, but assumed that it was talking about the runs from the wing saddle to the 4 wing servos. I've seen where some people run single power leads out the wing to power both the flap & aileron servos. I can see the logic on this doubling redundancy, but still can't follow the logic of a double red & double black from the battery to the fuse saddle. Please help me out here. It seems that any/most failures would occur at the plug/solder junction, not the wire itself (unless you got rodents getting in & chewing the wires )

edit: By running the power to the Rx via the flaps, in addition to the longer run & potential voltage drop, you're also increasing the number of connections that the power has to traverse. To me, thus increasing the risk of power failure to the RX, than by just running a short wire from your Dean's Ultra to the Rx directly.
Last edited by SHVentus; Feb 25, 2010 at 08:25 PM.
Feb 25, 2010, 08:33 PM
RIP MC
fnnwizard's Avatar
Nice clever wiring Marc. Doing it this way, you avoid stressing the 22g like you would if it was attached directly to the deans. The silicone 18g wire can handle a lot more physical abuse than the cheap 22g.

The only thing I would do to bullet proof even more is maybe tie all the wire together near where they plug into the rx. Make it so they act like one "snake". Perhaps a large heatshrink tubing over the ends would do.

Nice build for sure! Thanks for sharing.

TL
Feb 26, 2010, 04:31 AM
Registered User
R.M. Gellart's Avatar
SHV,
Basically, I have isolated each side of the wing, all the way to the battery. You cannot see it because of the heat shrink, but each side's feed goes all the way from the DUP to the DB9. Please do not take it that I have some grand scheme here, was just one way to catch the mouse.

Marc
Feb 26, 2010, 06:12 AM
Bob W
Mark, Dang nice ride. Assembly looking good, hope to see it soon.
Bob
Feb 26, 2010, 06:49 AM
mostly gliders
liukku's Avatar

Smart wiring :-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by OVSS Boss
Big evening, got the wiring harness finished in the fuse, all plugs, all terminations, and continuity testing in the fuse and with the center panel attached. Also, started making a skeg for TD, see below.

Marc
Hello
I have struggled to understand the wiring diagram, but think I understand now. As I see it, it is also a smart solution when using a 6 Channel receiver because you also avoid all the Y-connections.
Good job Marc, and even better if you can provide a simple wiring diagram; I mean, I get a headache when I have to think so much.

/Ville
Last edited by liukku; Feb 26, 2010 at 06:55 AM.


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