Dynam Skybus DC-3 - Page 63 - RC Groups
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Nov 10, 2010, 04:48 PM
Flick lives
BladeHead's Avatar
Originally Posted by markarch
Well, I just got back from some great flights with the DC-3! After I got the escs to sync up and set up properly it now rolls out straight as an arrow on take off and is great in the air. It is beautiful weather here in Pittsburgh so it was a perfect day to take it up for some flights. I just love the look of this plane in the air. There were some moms and kids at the playground next to the field and they rushed over to see what the plane looked like on the ground. I think some of the little boys may be getting air hogs for christmas now!
That's great news, Mark! I think the greatest benefit of this group has been all the chatter about those @!:?! ESCs.

I liked hearing about your audience at the flying field. For the inquisitive boys that come up to me when they see my planes in the air, I actually made up some "RC business cards" in MS-Word and printed them out on card stock. The card lists my YouTube channel plus a couple of suggested models for new RC pilots. Usually, once they get the card that satisfies them and they move on...I'd stand there and answer their questions all day, but then you have today's concerns about kids meeting strangers at the playground. Sad world, this.

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Nov 10, 2010, 05:32 PM
Registered User
Hi AskaLooN!
now it's at least two of us german native speakers ;-) - soweit man das von mir, einem Österreicher, sagen kann ;-)
The retracts look great! would like to add them to my semi-scale autrian-airlines-version! thanks for your input!

greetings from vienna! Servus nach Dortmund!
Nov 10, 2010, 07:52 PM
Registered User
True Burt. The card is a great idea. I find myself repeating the webiste and LHS information for all of the parents that happen by when we are flying. I always have my air hogs F-18 in the truck for anyone who wants to give it a try. I wonder how many air hogs I have been responsible for being bought over the years and for talking them out of buying a parkzone stryker right off the bat.
Nov 10, 2010, 09:35 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by xplaneguy
Burt, I had the same problem of paint pulling off when I removed the painter's tape around a de-icing boot on my AC-47. After that frustration, I finished masking the rest of the aircraft with large "Post it" notes. They work perfect! Just use a ruler edge to line them up overlapped, then tape down the overlapped edges to keep paint from getting underneath. I have not had paint removal issues on any foam aircraft since. You'll use lots of post it notes but the result is worth it.

The commercial....Post It, more than a sticky note!


The post-it note is a great idea, Tony. Hadn't thought about that.

Wondering if the mold release used during the foam molding process may be causing some problems with the primer/paint not sticking to the plane.

The model has such a nice smooth surface. I was thinking about giving a light sanding too, but I'd hate to screw up the smooth surface, if I over did it. Would just wiping it down with alcohol be enough to help with the paint situation, as has been mentioned?

I'm getting ready to paint mine soon. I really like the way pulsery2k1's plane turned out, but the polycrylic/papering/coating is a little more than I want to bite off at this point.

Hoping to find a good primer that will do the trick. What's the difference between Krylon primer and some of the other brands? Is that just what you had on hand, Burt...or is that a recommended brand for priming foam? Do I need acrylic, enamel, or latex based primer? Any additional suggestions on painting foam would be appreciated.

Last edited by pilot40874; Nov 10, 2010 at 09:57 PM.
Nov 10, 2010, 10:56 PM
6 months to finish a rtf
pulsery2k1's Avatar

well Jim if you just use some wed/dry 400 san paper with
water you won't take to much off and you can then just
apply the polcrylic without the paper- they sell spray
polycrylic and that will give a good base to paint on
Nov 11, 2010, 03:35 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by pulsery2k1

well Jim if you just use some wed/dry 400 san paper with
water you won't take to much off and you can then just
apply the polcrylic without the paper- they sell spray
polycrylic and that will give a good base to paint on

I'll definitely get some spray polycrylic to prep the surface first. Any particular brand? Afterwords, would I also need to primer before final painting, or could I just apply the finish color coats right over the spray polycrylic.

I don't want to add a lot of unnecessary weight on a primer coat if I don't need it after the polycrylic.

Thanks again for the help.
Nov 11, 2010, 08:33 AM
Flick lives
BladeHead's Avatar
Jim, I did a light sanding on the foam, then used Krylon primer based on markarch's success with Krylon paint on his great-looking DC-3 airliner. I used Krylon Indoor/Outdoor gray primer. The label states it can be used on wicker, fabric and paper, (along with the usual surfaces), so I thought it would work on foam. It also has a fan-spray nozzle that is fully adjustable from vertical to horizontal and everything in-between, being one who is attracted to gimmicks, I went for it. The paint sprayed on evenly and dried quickly with no runs. The Testor's finish colors have held up on it, except for when you pull up masking tape, so I'd try xplaneguy's post-it note idea to mask off colors.
Nov 11, 2010, 01:42 PM
Registered User
Thanks...I'll go for a light sanding, Krylon, and color coats. BTW, What exact color Testors gray did you use for the underside? You mentioned that you used 1265 Olive Drab for the green, but I didn't see a color code for the "light Gray" underside color that you used.

I've got everything ready to go. Today was finishing touches like making sure all of the fasteners had locktight, check the throws on all the control surfaces, and made sure everything was correctly aligned and working properly. Still need to verify the programming on the Dynam ESC's as previously discussed in this thread.

My CG (without any additional paint) is already at 70mm. That's behind the 60-65 that is recommended. I'm sure it will fly well at this point, but I'm wondering how much further back it will move with the addition of paint. There's a lot more surface area BEHIND the CG than in front of it, so this will undoubtedly have an effect once it's all painted.

One last (stupid) question. There are two nuts and two washers on each motor shaft. Where does the prop go in relation to these? There's no information in the instructions.

I'm new to this stuff. All I've ever flown before was the little ultra-micros where the props just screw on!

Glad I did the tail wheel steering mod, going to be fun to taxi out to the runway with this big bird!

Thanks for all the help.
Nov 11, 2010, 01:54 PM
Registered User
Its me again

The Google translator works OK!

So I was wondering, do you think the university would notice if you 3-D printed say... a few dozen of those red landing gear parts?
Today i visited the guys running the 3d-printer in our university. And i asked how much i could print...they just let me do 3 units, so there are enough retracts for 1,5 DC-3s

The third one was granted only because i need replacement parts and something for display. After all one cartridge for the plotter costs around $800 and the price for one retract unit would be around $50....

But i would have asked too if i were you

There would be the chance to take the parts, make molds and do some resin versions...but honestly i donīt have time for that.
But i think it wonīt be too difficult to manufacture for yourself because of the simple design. The baseplate could be made out of a hardwood block, the rods out of 7mm ABS or CFK cylinders...and CFK rods for the axles.

the parts will be ready around tuesday or wednesday next week, and i will post photos and further info...

@ pulsery2k1

I think it was a good decision your mother made!
So you didnīt keep the german citizenship or do you own both? in fact, i am thinking about emigrating...just donīt know where exactly to go yet. but the US is one of the candidates


Greetings back! Germany and Austria...you could write another bible on that topic
A famous joke (just when Schwarzenegger candidated for governor):
Guys, donīt give an Austrian political powers....you know where this ends!

remember: just a joke, and thats how you have to see it!

One thing left:

I donīt know what amount of "off-topic" you are tolerating. So just let me know...
Nov 11, 2010, 04:31 PM
Flick lives
BladeHead's Avatar
Originally Posted by pilot40874
Thanks...I'll go for a light sanding, Krylon, and color coats. BTW, What exact color Testors gray did you use for the underside?

...There are two nuts and two washers on each motor shaft. Where does the prop go in relation to these? There's no information in the instructions.
pilot40874, The belly paint was Testors 1226 flat dark aircraft gray.

I put the props on my plane like this: nut, washer, prop, washer, nut. I also use a dab of blue medium-strength liquid thread locker. I didn't use the Skybus hubs.

I wouldn't worry too much about the weight of the paint. Also, you measure the CG from the wing leading edge, not the joint were the wing panel meets the fuse...Two different things. The Dynam manual actually refers to BOTH references which is misleading...Must have lost something in the translation. I have my lipo full-forward in the tray and that seems to be where the plane likes it with no other ballast needed, (I tried more nose weight and she just didn't fly right).

Also, if you've only flown micro planes up to now, be prepared for what is, (to me anyway), a rather lively response in the roll for this size plane. In fact, I programmed some aileron expo in my DX6i so my pea-brain could cope with that.

Nov 11, 2010, 04:53 PM
Registered User
Thanks Burt.

I just got back from the hobby shop with 1 can of Testors 1226 and 3 cans of Testors 1265. Also got some flat white and flat black....still deciding exactly how I want to do the invasions strips. Not having any luck finding that 3M Scotch brand plastic tape....nobody has that around here. But I did find the 2" yellow letters and some of the smaller white numbers, so I'll make a slight change and have white numbers under the tail letter like you did. I think it looks good and will give a nice contrast with the white stripes.

I took xplaneguy's "Post-it"@ note idea, too. I bought some of those at the 99cent store.

Lastly, I bought some clear decal paper and I'm going to try using my ink jet printer to print out the "D-Day Doll" nose art. Have no idea how it will turn out, but thought I would give it a try. Then I just need to find some correct size stars and bars decals and I'll be all set.

Here's the plane and the nose art that I'm going to try and recreate. I live out in Camarillo, CA and this plane actually made a visit several years ago.
Last edited by pilot40874; Nov 11, 2010 at 07:20 PM.
Nov 11, 2010, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Just a thought..... but see if black electrical tape would work for your invasion stripes. I used that tape for my deicing boots and it worked great and really sticks to the foam well. That may be easier than masking them off.

I used extremely low tack blue painters tape for my masking and it did not peel any paint when being removed. I don't always get so lucky though especially when laying down heavier coats of paint for coverage. The silver paint I used covered really well with only two coats so it did not build up at the tape edges.
Nov 11, 2010, 05:50 PM
Flick lives
BladeHead's Avatar
pilot40874, I bought the Scotch plastic tape at my LHS, (local hardware store), which happens to be a True Value store if you have those out on the left coast. Some electrician's tape is really stretchy and you want to avoid putting the tape down to the foam stretched, or it will pull and distort. That's the reason I use the Scotch plastic tape, (not so much stretch).
Nov 11, 2010, 06:47 PM
6 months to finish a rtf
pulsery2k1's Avatar

No I have only my US citizenship, I got it when I was nine or ten
you had to give up all other's at the time, I looked up your city
you were in the british zone , my mother was in the American zone
met a US serviceman they got married and we came to America.
she had been severly injured during the war and never fully recovered
she died very young only 42 .
Nov 11, 2010, 06:55 PM
Suspended Account
Sad story.

On my father's side, his family lived in Aachen before the war, and were never heard from, again.

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