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Old Oct 08, 2010, 12:21 PM
xplaneguy is offline
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[QUOTE=HBPD;16239015]Madined the Old Skybus last Tuesday, all went better than expected. Gobs of power and a very stable flyer. Can't wait to make a AC-47 out of it.

I wonder if Dynams new twin 310 cessna (Grand Cruiser) is going to fly as well?

HBPD

QUOTE]

HBPD-I saw the Dynam Cessna 310/Grand Cruiser fly at the Big Jolt Electric Event and it was a great flyer. I can't wait to get one! Mine will be repainted as the "Songbird" from Sky King.

Regards,
Tony
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Old Oct 08, 2010, 02:16 PM
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Now that I have my first twin under my belt, can't wait for the next one. They do sound cool on a fast low level flyby. They are addictive, damn it! HK also has the J-Power P-38 in the USA Warehouse too...Maybe?

HBPD
Old Oct 08, 2010, 04:28 PM
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Securing wing back cover


Step 15 of the instructions talk about tape on the wing back cover. Mine has no tape. Any suggestions on how to secure it and hopefully get it off if wires ever need to be accessed? Also, one would assume it has to be secured fairly well for the spar to be effective.

Thanks, Bob
Old Oct 08, 2010, 04:41 PM
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rperego...

If you have a JO-Anns fabric store or a Michael's Craft store, they have a fabric tape thats simular to duct tape in fact it's called DUCK TAPE and comes in a wide range of colors. My cover had no tape on it as well, so I just took some of this tape (White) and pushed the cover all the way in and put a couple strips of this tape over each end and one in the middle, it holds very well and you can remove it if needed.

HBPD
Old Oct 08, 2010, 05:04 PM
pmullen503 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rperego View Post
Step 15 of the instructions talk about tape on the wing back cover. Mine has no tape. Any suggestions on how to secure it and hopefully get it off if wires ever need to be accessed? Also, one would assume it has to be secured fairly well for the spar to be effective.

Thanks, Bob
I used white packing tape I got from Uline.com. Make sure you glue the spar in really well. I used white Gorilla glue.

You'll probably need to service the landing gear mounts eventually as well. I've got 50-60 flights on mine and they are starting to loosen up.
Old Oct 08, 2010, 07:35 PM
12345 is offline
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I am Bill
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New Dynam Grand Cruiser Twin Engine Brushless Plane (14 min 28 sec)
Old Oct 09, 2010, 07:56 AM
aeronca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345 View Post
That IS a sweeeet looking and flying Cessna 310!

Aeronca
Old Oct 09, 2010, 12:37 PM
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OK- I read most of the thread (not all, but most). I ordered one of the kits yesterday. I take it that I should use no larger than a 7" prop. What motors are being used? I saw a few posts on the Exceed RC 400 size. I was thinking of using a HeadsUpRC 450 speed (1200kv) with a 7" 3 bladed prop.
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...0-Speed/Detail
Any other good motors to use? Thanks.
Old Oct 09, 2010, 01:06 PM
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Supplied glue versus ??


Using a small peice of bulkhead I had to remove I tried using the supplied glue. After 3-4 hours I could easily pull the peices apart and the glue was still somewhat tacky.

I then tried epoxy and when pulling the peices apart it appears the foam ripped rather than the glue joint failing. However, in reading threads on gluing EPO I don't see epoxy as a good choice.

Did I use the supplied glue incorrectly? E.g. is it supposed to be used like contact cement?

Thanks, Bob
Old Oct 09, 2010, 02:46 PM
harryg69 is offline
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Oops - That's gonna hurt!
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Gluing Foam with CA


Hello rperego,

CA glue (the supplied glue) needs air to cure. What happens is that the glue cures quickly around the edges where it is exposed to air but takes days to cure further in because air can only get to it through the small separation between halves. Foam is not porous so this is the only way to get the air in. You must wait. Another choice may be Gorilla glue (the original) - be careful with this as it 1) Expands, 2) dries brown, 3) READ INSTRUCTIONS - you need to spray down 1 side with water and spread the other side with glue. This glue takes time to cure also but the moisture will help it cure more quickly in the deeper parts of the joint. It also sands well compared to the harder glues like CA or Epoxy. The new Gorilla glue is nice because it dries white but is rubbery and does not sand well, again use sparingly as it expands - A LOT. (if you think you don't have enough glue on the surface you probably have too much . Try the new, white, Gorilla glue on a test piece - don't forget the water spray.

The foam-safe CA will work you just need to give it plenty of time to cure.

Harry
Last edited by harryg69; Oct 09, 2010 at 03:59 PM.
Old Oct 09, 2010, 03:33 PM
BladeHead is offline
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Flick lives
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A little advice plus a question


I'm setting up my C-47 for the maiden and a couple of issues cropped up.
  1. I wasn't getting the suggested 12-15mm elevator throw... It was more like 5mm. I checked the servo arm and the pushrod was in the correct hole, and the set screw was tight on the elevator end of the pushrod. I happened to check my (unpainted) wrecked parts DC-3 skybus in comparison to my new C-47 and noticed the latter had much more resistance when the elevator was pushed by hand. The difference? PAINT. All I needed to do was scratch the paint inside the elevator hinge on my C-47 with the tip of my x-acto blade and it took care of the problem.
    .
  2. So here's my question...The Dynam manual states, "The ideal C.G. position is 60-65mm behind the leading edge measured at where the wing meets the fuselage." Trouble is, that's a contradiction since the wing assembly meets the fuselage about 5mm AHEAD of the leading edge of the wing. If I use the wing panel joint as a reference, I need 4 oz. weight in the nose and if I use the leading edge of the wing as the reference, I don't. What are you guys using as the starting point to measure the 60-65mm center of gravity?
Old Oct 09, 2010, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BladeHead View Post
I'm setting up my C-47 for the maiden and a couple of issues cropped up.
  1. I wasn't getting the suggested 12-15mm elevator throw... It was more like 5mm. I checked the servo arm and the pushrod was in the correct hole, and the set screw was tight on the elevator end of the pushrod. I happened to check my (unpainted) wrecked parts DC-3 skybus in comparison to my new C-47 and noticed the latter had much more resistance when the elevator was pushed by hand. The difference? PAINT. All I needed to do was scratch the paint inside the elevator hinge on my C-47 with the tip of my x-acto blade and it took care of the problem.
    .
  2. So here's my question...The Dynam manual states, "The ideal C.G. position is 60-65mm behind the leading edge measured at where the wing meets the fuselage." Trouble is, that's a contradiction since the wing assembly meets the fuselage about 5mm AHEAD of the leading edge of the wing. If I use the wing panel joint as a reference, I need 4 oz. weight in the nose and if I use the leading edge of the wing as the reference, I don't. What are you guys using as the starting point to measure the 60-65mm center of gravity?
The 60-65mm is measured from the wing leading edge. I found I needed a couple oz. in addition to a 2200mAH battery to balance there. Eventually, I removed the extra weight. The 60-65mm is very conservative. I and most others have found that the battery alone is enough to balance properly. That puts the CG more like 75-80mm, which is fine. The recommended CG is nose heavy but you know what they say: Nose heavy airplanes fly poorly but tail heavy airplanes fly once...........
Old Oct 09, 2010, 04:34 PM
HBPD is offline
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I also put an oz. in the nose as well...
Old Oct 13, 2010, 12:12 AM
Heavy Chevy is offline
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Vanadu
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OOOhhh!! I really want this plane so that I can make a replica. I live across the street from this:

http://explorenorth.com/library/aviation/cf-cpy.html


It would be so cool to do! I havn't read the thread yet but the plane seems to have good reviews from youtube vids.
Old Oct 13, 2010, 04:49 PM
rob737 is offline
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if anybody needs stock cowls graysonhobby has them now......


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