Smoke Unit in LVTP-7 - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Feb 09, 2010, 02:22 PM
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Hello Danl,I am Posting a picture of the new smoke unit,the proportional models.They are 15.00 from
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Feb 10, 2010, 01:31 PM
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Smoker build write-up

Strmnd 54,
I used your great resistor idea to build a smoker for boats. I wrote up the build with pics and parts source detail and posting it here and in the Scale Boats forum.
I didn't include proportional control and it's designed for 12V, common in tugboat models, etc.
Posted as PDF for easy printing with pics.

The unit, built at 1.2A at 12V (14W) puts out, as expected, less smoke than typical bigger 20-30 watt units built for boats, but it puts out much more fog per watt than they do. So I'm going to build one with double resistors
(2.4A at 12V, about 30W) to see what it does.

Cool idea. Thanks much.
Feb 11, 2010, 12:00 AM
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smoker build write-up

Congratulations !! That"s a very professional work you did there...I like the knot you're using to tie the wick around the resistor ; it should prevent the wick from slipping off...Got to try that on mine...I think that experimenting and trying new ideas is what I like the most about this hobby...I have no doubts that you will find the optimal configuration resistors element ; wicks and air-flow for your smokers...In any case it's fun trying !!!

Do you have a way to know if your smoker is running low on fluid???
This has been a great concern of mine because I am dealing with a very small reservoir and running dry will more than likely burn the element...

The solution I found was to insert an extra piece of tubing that goes from about 1/2" above the top of the cover , straight down to the bottom of the reservoir. I cut the tip at an angle as to cover an area that range from the bottom of the reservoir to 1/8" above it...

In normal operation (normal fluid level) the tip of that probe is immersed in fluid :so nothing happens .
When the fluid level goes below 1/8" ; smoke is starting to come out of that tube ; so you know you're running low on fluid... You hook up the other terminal part of the tube in an area where you're not suppose to see smoke ; and you have a low level warning system ...
It's simple but it works!!!

I will follow your postings with great interest...
Feb 11, 2010, 01:44 AM
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Excellent,i very much like the simplicity of the design.Well thought out and the vent tube low level warning is quit smart.Simple is always better,to bad the Government can't understand simple,smart logic.But then we are building for a hobby and have nothing to hide in 2700 pages of politician speak.I have worked out my design and will post tomorrow,it will work for the tanks as it uses the stock units housing.Of course Dan I used the resistors and slightly altered the wick idea that strmnd54 perfected through his testing so without that data the job would not of worked out so well.And as Tankers we are restricted to 7.2volts.Although your unit DAN would work well in the tanks,very well indeed. This has been a very interesting and enjoyable thread,and represents all the best qualities of the forums.By the way Yellowshaker has posted his new device on the Thanks again Dan and Strmnd54 for all the idea's and electrical solutions. Blake 1-saxondog
Last edited by SAXONDOG; Feb 11, 2010 at 02:27 AM.
Feb 11, 2010, 02:59 AM
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Blake, Strmnd - you guys are full of ideas. Love the vent /low level idea - perfect! Glad I ran across the posts you guys put up.

Blake - the HL housing is a very cool little thing. If there are a lot of busted ones out there, they sure can be redone as resistor units and will be really prime smokers.

I'm still not clear why so many tankers are using oil. Doesn't it really mess up your paint etcetc? And glycol fog seems to "hang" much better than oil smoke i've seen.
Feb 11, 2010, 11:23 AM
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I went to the music store next door yesterday to buy some glycol smoke fluid...They are asking $45.00 a gallon...So I said "no way jose" ...
I came home and started to browse e-bay to find a better deal...
To my surprise ; it seems that nobody is making that stuff in canada . It's all imported from the U.S. ...
So the best price I could find on e-bay was $20.00 / gallon with a shipping cost of $21.00 ...
So that $45.00 next door is not the rip-off I thought it was...
I'm gonna have to bite the bullet ; count my spare change and go get some...
Feb 11, 2010, 12:34 PM
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I paid $43/4liters with tax in Minnesota.

Search LeMaitre Special Effects. They make the fluid I use. A Canadian company.

The stuff keeps and a gallon will last a long time, so maybe the local price is somewaht bearable. Not much different from here.
Feb 11, 2010, 04:48 PM
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Hello Dan,the reason for oil is it comes with the tanks when purchased new.That's it.I am a little delayed to day as the power supply for my Dremel has gone missing.I have every thing ready to cut and piece together,Dan your unit would sell I would think.If your not interested then maybe we could discuss a residual payment if I were to bring it to market.Some guy's just prefer to purchase parts and drop in components.I only say this because I am working with two other tankers on some other products we are trying to bring to the market.Nothing spectacular but better quality than what can be purchased now.I have even considered a kit for the smokers,what do you think about that as their are a lot out their that guy's pulled out because of the sad elements. If you have any idea about bringing any products to market please PM me for discussion,This has been a really fun thread,the way all our ideas came together and solved the individual issues with smoker unit,weather ship or tank.Dan your smoker is top notch,very smart design,Simple and compact.STRMND54 thanks again for the math,and developing the resistance levels.One other thing I did a little different was to take the old wick material and slide the resistor through the center,then attached another piece using Dan's method.this should protect the element a little better maybe? What can I say you two smart guy's have solved a problem that has plagued H/L tanks from day one. Take care Blake p.s.what did you guy's think of Joe's(yellowshakers)design?
Feb 11, 2010, 09:12 PM
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chk your PMs
Feb 11, 2010, 09:31 PM
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Dan I stepped out for an hour,but don't have any PM'S? Are you sure you sent them? Try again Dan I'm here now
Feb 11, 2010, 10:08 PM
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I tried inserting the resistor inside the wick like you're doing ...I still have a bag of those in my drawer...
Somehow it didn't work for me as good as I was expecting ; and at the time I couldn't figure out why...
But lately when I rig a new smoker I let it run without the top cover to see how the heater is performing....As soon as I turn on the power I can actually hear and see the oil starting to sizzle on the top of the resistor ( kind a like grease in a hot pan ); it produces bubbles that rise through the wick and it's only when those bubbles are bursting at the surface of the wick that it produces smoke. I think that having too thick of a wick layer covering the resistor was preventing that bubbleling from happening...
But it's only my observations and my conclusion ; you don't have to take my word as the absolute truth...
Try your smoker without the top cover if you can and see what's happening...It didn't work for me but it might work for you ; after all there's a lot of trial and error involved in what we are trying to do...
Good luck with your project and keep us posted...
Feb 11, 2010, 11:02 PM
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I was just trying today to develop a replacement element and did not get to follow through and Test,so I will try what you have suggested and run the smoker with the cap off the chamber,I have been looking off and on all day for the stupid power supply for my dremel tool and it has vanished,and I am ready to cut parts and can't which is p-ing me off.Ready to build and can't because of this missing supply,a real bummer.Also I have to build the chamber into a funnel shape as the fan is pushing air from the top of the blades,not the center.So I am cutting some plasticard to box in the fan and channel the air through the round opening where the plunger was fitted,then I can test the wick assembly.The idea to insert the resistor through the material then tie on another piece of wick has not been tested by me yet,so your observations are valuable.I am also working with the clear chamber so observing the wick both ways will be noted and I will post on this thread..Until tomorrow guy's and thanks for the info strmnd54,BFN
Feb 12, 2010, 10:15 AM
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If the cone takesup too much room, you can get the fan to blow thru the hole by laying the fan flat over the hole but mounting the outer edge of the fan blades over the hole (not centering the fan). Then block off the part of th hole not covered by the fan and blockk off the exit area of the fan not over the hole.
You will get plenty of flow.
Feb 12, 2010, 12:35 PM
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Thanks Dan,I have to center if I am going to stack the refill camber,It rest on the fan and the edge of the main chamber,I will try to post some pictures today.But your smoker may well be the unit to have. Blake
Feb 12, 2010, 05:42 PM
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Sorry. I should have maybe drawn it this way to work with your stacked feed chamber. Maybe this wil work. Start with a hole that follows the outer tips of the fan blade.

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