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Aug 08, 2018, 08:31 AM
Retired and Lovin' it!
TPfingston's Avatar
Polyspan is listed here: http://www.bmjrmodels.com/accessorie...erial/polyspan

And how to apply is here:
Covering a Wing With Polyspan (56 min 53 sec)


I am pretty sure that it is also available at other locations. A Google search should turn up some.

Tony
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Aug 08, 2018, 11:40 AM
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Steve Merrill's Avatar
Thanks for the video!! Perfect, as I'm building a Spook, with an under-cambered wing
Aug 08, 2018, 02:57 PM
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Steve Merrill's Avatar
Hey, aren't you the guy who built the Twin Otter from MAN plans? Good to see you here again on RCG.

Question, did you make any other videos doping and then painting the wing? Could you simply paint the polyspan as is, no dope?
Aug 08, 2018, 04:59 PM
Retired and Lovin' it!
TPfingston's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Merrill
Hey, aren't you the guy who built the Twin Otter from MAN plans? Good to see you here again on RCG.

Question, did you make any other videos doping and then painting the wing? Could you simply paint the polyspan as is, no dope?
Sorry Steve, not me. Actually, I think the guy that made the video may have gotten out of RC but I'm not sure of that. However, polyspan must be sealed with something before painting. Personally, I have used water based poly and also thinned ModPodge with decent results. That being said though, I have discovered that I am not a painter and recently have been using iron-on films.

Tony
Aug 10, 2018, 10:52 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Camera Tip: To help keep the model in the frame of the viewfinder, look past the camera with your left eye, use right eye on viewfinder. Practice sighting other models in the air that way, then try it for real. Cameras that have an optical viewfinder work better, the LED screens are dim in bright sunlight unless you attach some kind of a sun shade to keep light from coming in from the sides. There are shade devices sold by camera supply places that help keep light off LED viewfinder screens.
Last edited by E-Challenged; Aug 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM.
Aug 10, 2018, 03:29 PM
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builderdude's Avatar
I'm going to start on my Stinson Reliant kit this weekend. I'm not going to rush through it, I'd like to take my time and enjoy the build experience, sand it to perfection, etc.

I am going to attempt to do silk on it, but first I'm going to practice silking a 48" Curtiss Jenny that had warped wings. If I can strip the wings and get the warp out, I'll see if I can do a decent silk job...because if it warps again, well, then it'll just continue being a display model.
But if I get the warp out, then it becomes a flyer.
Depending on how that works out, I'll silk the Stinson Reliant.

I will be pre-shrinking my silk with water. The key I think is to control the shrinking so that it doesn't shrink excessively. I'll post a build thread somewhere along the way.
Aug 16, 2018, 12:40 PM
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builderdude's Avatar
I have started my build. One wing done so far. But I'll hold off posting here unless I have a question or an issue. When I get a little more done, I'll post a build thread.
Oh, and I did order my silk to cover it with. But I will build up a few simple frames and work out my technique before covering the model in silk.
Aug 21, 2018, 11:50 AM
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65Cyclone's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by builderdude
I have started my build. One wing done so far. But I'll hold off posting here unless I have a question or an issue. When I get a little more done, I'll post a build thread.
Oh, and I did order my silk to cover it with. But I will build up a few simple frames and work out my technique before covering the model in silk.
I just ordered this short kit and will be following along if you do a build log.

Can you please tell me what power systems you are going to use as the recommended motor is out of production?
Aug 21, 2018, 12:26 PM
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builderdude's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Cyclone
I just ordered this short kit and will be following along if you do a build log.

Can you please tell me what power systems you are going to use as the recommended motor is out of production?
I am going to make my decision on a motor once the model is built and I have a close approximation of the final weight.
I don't want the plane to be underpowered, in fact, I usually like to have my planes just slightly overpowered, so that I merely have to throttle back to cruise. That way, I have enough power to get myself out of a situation easier.

But per Pat Tritle's building tips, he has listed on his web page that for mild aerobatics, you want to have 70 to 80 Watts per pound.
His plane came in at around 27.5 ounces I think. Usually I end up a few ounces heavier than him. So if I plan on about a 32 ounce airplane, I might want to go for around 160 Watts, and I'd want it to be an outrunner. I'd rather swing a larger prop instead of a smaller one at high speed.
But that's about it for my estimate.
I will begin looking at some motor options, but I don't have a decision yet.

I have both of my wings built now, and I'm about to start on my flaps.
I am going to have a build log, but I'm a slower builder than Pat; so I wanted to get a bit more done on the plane before I started my build log.
Aug 21, 2018, 12:45 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
I have found that it helps me to make a list of build steps in logical order, subject to change. I note any items that I need to buy to complete each step. This helps me to avoid having to undo a step that interferes with what I'm doing. My Tritle Reliant is detailed and heavy with planking and cabin detailing and landing gear mods. I am using an old discontinued Scorpion 3008-32 brushless motor and 2200mah 3-cell (3S) lipo pack, somewhat overkill for a floater version. Here is the current version.

http://innov8tivedesigns.com/parts/b...-motor-kv-1090

I would use a cheaper equivalent Cobra motor and speed control with advice from Lucien Miller, proprietor, Innov8tive Designs

The length of the motor mount box will probably need to be changed to get whatever motor you choose to protrude through the dummy radial engine properly. Try to get the motor angled for some down and right thrust while protruding through the center of the dummy radial engine.
Last edited by E-Challenged; Aug 21, 2018 at 01:07 PM.
Aug 21, 2018, 06:17 PM
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builderdude's Avatar
How did your plane fly? And what was your final weight?

Although I admire those who put a lot of scale detailing in a gorgeous model, I prefer to keep mine as light as possible, because it really does make a difference in how it flies. But that's me.
Like I said, I think some of the scale models people create, with full detailing, is brilliant.
And I admire the skill it takes.

I know you may have posted pics of your Reliant...I don't want to look through 25 pages.
Could you show a pic of yours?
Aug 22, 2018, 11:52 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Here's a couple of pics. my Reliant weighed about double what Pat's floater prototype weighed(mine was 52 ounces). I modified the windscreen and fuselage top contour to resemble the SR-7 version. I added detailed panel and "steering wheels" , seats with lap belts, paneled cabin and functional doors plus inlayed balsa of the boot cowl and cabin back to the trailing edge of wing, open framework rearward, with steerable tail wheel linkage. Model flies well but needs to fly fast enough to avoid stalling including landings. I used Solarfilm white for opaque background and dark blue covering for trim. I went nutz trying to recapture a detailed model of an SR-7. I would build the same model as a floater today, per plans and instructions.

If you are not following Pat's original build thread, you should. Flaps: Tendency to "balloon" is determined by throttle/airspeed and flap angles. Use very little or no flap for takeoff, and a little more for landings. Let model take off when ready with little or no up elevator. Don't fly tail heavy. Fly in calm air off of a smooth surface. Land on main wheels while getting used to stalling characteristics. Use good tail-dragger technique including right rudder and up elevator to keep tail wheel on ground during start of takeoff run, release elevator as speed builds and steer with rudder. You knew all that, huh?
Last edited by E-Challenged; Aug 22, 2018 at 12:12 PM.
Aug 22, 2018, 06:20 PM
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builderdude's Avatar
Just as I thought.
Your model is brilliant. Very beautiful.
Nice job!
Aug 23, 2018, 11:23 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Thanks BD. I have an old Sterling SR-8 Reliant 57" wingspan kit that I may build someday but will have to build it light for electric power. I never recovered from my Reliant obsession after building my first Comet SR-7 as a child in the late 50's. There's a guy named Ackerman who apparently has the same full scale Pepsi Cola SR-7 in pieces and will restore it after another SR-7 restoration. It's a small world. He mentions Pepsi Cola Reliant "barn find" near end of video.

Garry Ackerman's Stinson SR-7 Project "The Beast" - Part 2 (10 min 42 sec)
Last edited by E-Challenged; Aug 23, 2018 at 01:48 PM.


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