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Apr 27, 2012, 09:08 PM
Do Da Dippidy
plowboy1966's Avatar
I just checked for you, first toggle switch replacement $37.50 each additional $10.50. $9.99 for return shipping.
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Apr 27, 2012, 09:10 PM
Flying Half Pound and Down
DaOldGuy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by plowboy1966
I just checked for you, first toggle switch replacement $37.50 each additional $10.50. $9.99 for return shipping.
Its not just the switch, the PCB it attaches too is pooched, which has both switches on it <sigh>
Apr 27, 2012, 09:32 PM
Do Da Dippidy
plowboy1966's Avatar
Call em Ron, just see what the estimate that would cost. Or check out radiosouthrc.
Apr 27, 2012, 10:04 PM
Flying Half Pound and Down
DaOldGuy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by plowboy1966
Call em Ron, just see what the estimate that would cost. Or check out radiosouthrc.
One of our club members is an electronic specialist and he says he has the switchs and he can fix a PCB as long as it has not reached to point of being turned to dust...

He also has a spare 9C... my urges to kill are subsiding.
Apr 27, 2012, 10:45 PM
Walk of Shame Season :)
Waldopepperaxe's Avatar
HmM sounds to me like your next purchase is going to be a quadrotor lol sorry to hear of the problems
Apr 27, 2012, 10:46 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
Well... didn't do any flying today... there was unscheduled wind lol. By the time I got out to the field it had really picked up and everyone was leaving.
Apr 28, 2012, 06:18 AM
Registered User
kerwin50's Avatar
Guys if my hands were better I'd fix those switches for you.
I am able to solder now but I just do it for myself. It is just so easy to screw up a board and lift a pad.
Apr 28, 2012, 06:52 AM
Registered User
Its oldschool, but wire can be used where the copper has lifted from the board. I guess I'm dating myself....I remember perf boards and tubes....wire snaking amongst parts the likes of which only an electronics geek would recognize.
Apr 28, 2012, 07:10 AM
Flying Half Pound and Down
DaOldGuy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman
Its oldschool, but wire can be used where the copper has lifted from the board. I guess I'm dating myself....I remember perf boards and tubes....wire snaking amongst parts the likes of which only an electronics geek would recognize.
There is no doubt there is tricks to fix it but it is not within my tolerence to do so.

He told me
"by bad , do you mean un-repairable even for someone who was hired by NASA to do emergency repairs on satellites... Unless the board has turned to powder, anything is possible"
Apr 28, 2012, 07:49 AM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waldopepperaxe

David all great ideas from the crew here so I'll add another, you can strap another external 12 oz tank on top of the fuse in front of the canopy, feed that into the lower tank and let muffler pressure and gravity do its thing we did this on my friends Kadet worked great. the best part is you don't need to mod anything and just rubber band the tank on when you want to use it.
D
I did that waldo

Very simple procedure, and it seems to work great

Zap strapped on tank and just rep lugged two tubes.

Wish I knew about this long ago before fooling around with perry pumps
Apr 28, 2012, 08:59 AM
Registered User
kerwin50's Avatar
i've repaired many a PC board with wire wrap. This was done on air port nav systems.
It's ok to do that as long as it's done with in IPC 610 guide lines. Which is also the same as NASA's guide lines.
Like I said if I was able to repair it for you I would DOG but I still have tremors in my hands.
Apr 28, 2012, 09:45 AM
Flying Half Pound and Down
DaOldGuy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kerwin50
i've repaired many a PC board with wire wrap. This was done on air port nav systems.
It's ok to do that as long as it's done with in IPC 610 guide lines. Which is also the same as NASA's guide lines.
Like I said if I was able to repair it for you I would DOG but I still have tremors in my hands.
Thanks for that Kerwin... The drive to his house was much closer.

He said if nothing else they could be wired to the switches direct without the board so there is options. I dont even use those 2 switches <more for the Heli functions> but I dont like anything half arse. He lent me his spare 9CHP so I can continue configuring the SHP and I have my Compac so I have a couple of my planes.
Apr 28, 2012, 10:01 AM
Registered User
David22.....videos please!!!

Half arse is definitely not the way to go.....now full arse is a different matter all together.

Kerwin....sorry to hear about the continuing problems.....you're flying though!!!!!

Any body have an idea where I could get the balancing specs for a Global Wattage Empress? What's the norm for a top-wing trainer type airplane.......1/3 back from the leading edge? Thanks.

Oh, it's Saturday......who's flying?
Apr 28, 2012, 10:08 AM
Montana Transplant
mt_flyer's Avatar
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/cg_calc.htm
Apr 28, 2012, 10:42 AM
Do Da Dippidy
plowboy1966's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman
David22.....videos please!!!

Half arse is definitely not the way to go.....now full arse is a different matter all together.

Kerwin....sorry to hear about the continuing problems.....you're flying though!!!!!

Any body have an idea where I could get the balancing specs for a Global Wattage Empress? What's the norm for a top-wing trainer type airplane.......1/3 back from the leading edge? Thanks.

Oh, it's Saturday......who's flying?

Snow, you could always start at 25% of the mean aerodynamic chord. Safest way to go.


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