I really need to rebuild mine.

Originally Posted by TheOldFart

I relocated mine so that the bend is right at the front support. That puts less moment on the skid rod and makes it less likely to bend. Just loosen the screws and shift them back about 3/8". It might take a little work, depending on how much the assembler tightened the screws and deformed the rods where the screw indents them.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I'd really like to find some solid metal rod that would fit in the landing leg holes and then bend up some custom skids that will take more abuse.

Originally Posted by scotsoft

Did you do a search for any lubrication tips?

I can't think of anything else to try - sorry

I lube mine up with Eros. It's a silicone based sex lube, but works great on the shaft.

Cheap, thin aluminum tubing- cheap enough to replace when it cracks, but you usually get a few bends first, so they last reasonably. Easily shave off 1/2 to 3/4 gram.

Lube with Labelles 107....... very very little.

I have oodles of cans of "Green Gas" for my airsoft guns...in a pinch, I've shot some into a small cap, to get the silicone oil...
Note: If you run a NEW S107 fresh from the box until it won't hold altitude, it will damage the battery, first flight.
Subsequent flights will be short, and the cell will look more like a silver grape than a silver plank.

I try to never use more than one-half of any LiPo's capacity.
I've only killed two, own over 70.

Originally Posted by djdavies83

Hi don't know if anyone has answered you or not but just incase...

The top rota is held onto the shaft by a tiny screw on the side of the black part that fits onto the shaft, you will notice a small "flat" in the top of the inner shaft, this is where screw should rest when it's tighented up, if the screw is there and not missing, losen it off a little and the assembly should drop onto the shaft a little lower, noe tighten the screw half a turn.

Place a finger of one hand through the side of the heli so that you can stop the gears from turning, with your other hand slowly turn the top rota, if to moves freely give the scew another half turn, keep repeating the above untill you can feel the scew locate into the the flat, tighen it up a little more but don't over so it, that should be job done.

If your screw is missing buy a glasses repair kit from pound shop and use a screw from that kit, good luck and happy flying!

Hey thanks a lot!
I saw the flat part on the shaft but didn't know there was supposed to be a screw there.
Now I just need to dig out my glasses repair kit that I have here somewhere...
Thanks again for the help.

Originally Posted by killbucket

Note: If you run a NEW S107 fresh from the box until it won't hold altitude, it will damage the battery, first flight.
Subsequent flights will be short, and the cell will look more like a silver grape than a silver plank.

I try to never use more than one-half of any LiPo's capacity.
I've only killed two, own over 70.

What if you fully charge it before the 1st flight? I fly my S107 until full up command will not make it climb much or just hover ... that's when I call it quits. I've flown my new S107 about 5 times now and it still flys for 6 minutes before it starts losing power.

After a few flights like I described above, I removed the canopy and felt the battery and motors ... nothing was even warm to the touch. The battery voltage was 3.25 after a full flight.

Originally Posted by doof

Hey thanks a lot!
I saw the flat part on the shaft but didn't know there was supposed to be a screw there.

There are actually two screws (located 180 deg apart) that screw down on the flat on the shaft.

Re: The Mythical Blue S107 (or just the plastic parts)
I've searched high and low with no luck. Nevermind scale-looking fuselages, nevermind a whole heli, I would settle for a nice blue canopy! (tail decorations would be a bonus). Even black would rock. If anybody has any success in locating a seller - Please share!
@babydragonhands Where did you get yours? And isn't that just the nicest shade of blue?

@pugsam Perhaps I better repeat my warning regarding the spares non-compatibility of the original Syma S107 and its close cousin the E-Hobby 100-series AKA the T100 sold by All-Battery.com in the US.

Although this model (and its controller) looks almost identical to the Syma S107, it can be identified by:

• Metal parts satin-finished (rather than shiny)
• No cut-outs on the canopy
• Flame stickers on the canopy
• E-Hobby branded blades
• 1cm longer tail-boom
• 1cm longer canopy
• Metal tail-decorations
• Colours: Red, Yellow, Blue, Silver, Black (?)
• No throttle-return spring in Tx

I haven't seen this model actually sold as a Syma, but despite the near-identical looks a number of basic parts aren't compatible:

• Canopy (longer)
• Tail-boom (longer)
• Tail-rotor (narrower blades and "softer" pitch)
• Tail decorations (metal instead of plastic)
• Main-shaft (larger diameter than S107) which means that the blade-holders etc ALSO aren't compatible.

I haven't stripped the model down all the way, so I'm still hoping that some *parts* like the motors might be useful for S107 spares.

To recap: There is nothing wrong with this heli. As a matter of fact it flies smoother and longer than a standard S107, with a higher piro rate (turning around its own axis) than both the S107R5 AND S107R3.

Just don't expect to rely on S107 spares to keep it going! I also haven't been able to find an on-line source of parts, possibly because I'm not googling the right keywords. The lack of an identifiable brand can have that effect!

So far (50 flights) I've had two fly-bars' little connecting knobs break off, whereas the S107 - suffering identical treatment - had no such problems. Brittle plastic?

And for interest sake, a repeat of the 30 second piro-test for the different versions:

• S107R3 - Just under 20 rotations
• S107R5 - Just over 10 rotations
• WD-3C2R (100-series) - Just over 20 rotations

Originally Posted by Quagga

And for interest sake, a repeat of the 30 second piro-test for the different versions:

• S107R3 - Just under 20 rotations
• S107R5 - Just over 10 rotations
• WD-3C2R (100-series) - Just over 20 rotations

My new S107 with R5 board does 1 rev in ~ 2 to 2.5 sec with a full charge.

Made up some solid skid rails for the S107 tonight. Found a metal hanger in the closet that was slightly smaller than the holes in landing gear struts. Cut and bent the hanger to match the original shape. Stripped the white paint off, sanded with 600 grit and used pera-blue to turn the metal a dark blue/black. They came out nice; the skids look good in black-ish. These will not bend, guaranteed. I had to really put force on them to get a bend on the one end. They might be a few grams heavier than stock, but a test flight shows no differences in handling or flight time.

Any pics?

Originally Posted by salazam

I lube mine up with Eros. It's a silicone based sex lube, but works great on the shaft.

I can well imagine Eros, the silicone based sex lube will work well on the shaft - roflmao

Originally Posted by Quagga

Re: The Mythical Blue S107 (or just the plastic parts)

Trust me, they are only available in the US, I spent months looking for a seller outside of the US .

I asked numerous sellers in Hong Kong to get them and they all replied they could not get them .

Your best bet is if you know someone who is going on holiday to the states and ask them to bring you one back, that's if they are going where they can buy one.

I got a friend to bring me one from San Francisco - and I love it