Syma s107 Helicopter - Page 111 - RC Groups
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Jul 05, 2010, 08:44 PM
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Jetskeeter's Avatar
the design is good, your're right. I just gotta steer clear of tables, lamps,fans,etc and have some super glue on hand.
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Jul 05, 2010, 10:43 PM
Registered User

Any suggestions on how to make this hover correctly?

Hi. I just bought the S107 at a local mall for $52. The one the guy had would hover in one place and easily maneuver. He made it hover in one place using only one hand to show how stable it is. I know it takes some practice but my wants to list to one side - not rotate, I know how to adjust for that. Any suggestions? He also said flight time was 20 minutes - not true. It last maybe 6 minutes at best. I still like it but not completely satisfied.
Jul 05, 2010, 11:25 PM
You certainly wont get 20 minutes out of a single charge. 6 minutes is still pushing it as you run the risk of draining the battery in that time, which will almost certainly kill it. 3 minutes at a time is recommended.

Take a read through this thread. Yes its over 100 pages long but contains some very useful information.
Jul 05, 2010, 11:44 PM
Fly Runaway Fans
said flight time was 20 minutes
NO untethered aircraft model will fly that long. Would burn up the motors if it did. Salesmen lie, kinda gotta expect that. BTW, flying until it will no longer lift will greatly shorten battery life.

He lied about the price too. It's $28 shipped. I like picking stuff up at the mall instead of waiting 3 weeks in the mail too, but not if it almost doubles the price.

In the second production run, they are not always seating the battery properly. That's what causes the list. Easily corrected.
Jul 06, 2010, 03:11 AM
North East England
Originally Posted by Pezarito
Hi. I just bought the S107 at a local mall for $52. The one the guy had would hover in one place and easily maneuver. He made it hover in one place using only one hand to show how stable it is. I know it takes some practice but my wants to list to one side - not rotate, I know how to adjust for that. Any suggestions? He also said flight time was 20 minutes - not true. It last maybe 6 minutes at best. I still like it but not completely satisfied.
Welcome to the forums

Once the heli is balanced - and it seems like it's just the battery out of position as Arbilab said, it IS an easy machine to fly; it's certainly the best at hovering that I've seen. You still need to give tiny amounts of up/down throttle to keep it level, especially after it's flown a while and churned up all the air in the room, but that soon becomes automatic.

I think we'd ALL like a heli that ran for 20 mins but it hasn't happened...yet. Who knows what tomorrow's technology will bring?
Jul 06, 2010, 04:37 AM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar
see now thats one thing I love about the iPhone, I can be in a store or at a car boot/yard sale and instantly price things up online and on ebay then decide if I really want
**insert product here**
from where I am or wait a week or two and save 40% or so.

When I was in RED5 a couple of weeks ago I showed a guy the video of my S107 flying upside down, he instantly ran in the back, grabbed his personal S107 did the hack and flew upside down then.......

Crashed and shattered one end of his flybar, Oooops.

RED5 stock the flybar at 3 over the counter, if your near a RED5 (and they have not sold out, things like this sell out quickly, supprise? not really)
it's 2.77 GBP FREE P&P from

I'm in town latter so I'm gonna call in and see how many/if they have had any S032 returned with a burnt out motor (maybe I can get a couple of burnouts and see about replacing that wire brush with carbon block.

20 mins flight
over in my S026 mods thread a guy says his mini chinook with a 420mAh cell and no body will fly for 20 mins, I can kinda see it as I'm trying the same on 2 of my 4.
Jul 06, 2010, 07:09 AM
Chasing dreams not d competion
The best way to stop the balence bar breaking is to stop running the heli into things, i dont think ive crashed mine at all but then again i havent flown them every day, they are so stable.

I did post a technique that may make new bars last a whole lot longer, have a look through the thread but basically boil the parts in water for a bit wrap them in a flannel and they wont melt on the bottom of the pan, this destresses the plastic parts. Back when i used to race cars the process made constantly breaking wishbones last forever.

At $58 and a load of lies i would take it back and either get your money back or ask for one that flies properly without having to pull it appart.

Whats the upside down hack?

An update on the Kamov is that ive had problems, the bottom rotor was going to hit the fuselage so ive had to alter the position of the mechs and am now thinking of extending the shafts although hopefully the work i did last night will mean i dont.
As a side note i also tried flipping the mechs so the motors were on the underside, pointing downwards, but there were isssues with the drive tothe top rotor.
All seems like its getting there now, ive took a few pics and wil start a new thread on it shortly. Its looking good.
Jul 06, 2010, 08:13 AM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar

How to invert a co-axial heli

Originally Posted by BrownOut

Whats the upside down hack?
S107 inverted "top gun" style (0 min 10 sec)

This is really simple, it's just a case of removing the top blades and then putting upside down on the bottom grip and the bottom blades upside down on the top grip.

It's still really stable, thing is it's hand launch and land and the controls are also inverted (forwards is backward and left is right etc), after filming the video I found it easiest to use the controller upside down (all directional control is normal but you pull on the throttle rather than push), throttle on the right directional on the left.
Jul 06, 2010, 08:17 AM
Nice idea on the boiling. I will try this once my helis come in.
Jul 06, 2010, 08:55 AM
From what I know of plastics, that the process changes it somehow is surprising...
We'd boil parts to dye them, tho. No idea if it made them stronger, a few pages back was the first time I've read that.

I did find this:
here's a copy of a letter that was posted awhile back on another forum regarding boiling parts:
The following is a copy of the letter I wrote them:
I'm the owner of a Traxxas Revo 3.3 and user of several RPM products. Recently on the online Traxxas forums there's been a large amount of people stating that boiling their plastic RC parts will make them last longer. These same people are boiling gears, a-arms, and other misc parts. There seems to be 3 schools of thought on this. One side says boiling makes the parts more rigid, the other side says it makes them more flexible. Lastly the others say it makes the parts swell and weakens them. Personally, the only time I boil my parts is the short amount of time it takes to dye them...

I currently work for ******, but for several years I worked for a vinyl extrusion company called ****** Industries so I have a little bit of knowledge on the subject of plastics, nylons, vinyls, tioxides, and other composites. My aim in contacting you is to gain a little more knowledge and possibly forward what I learn from you to the RC community so that they can make educated decisions on the subject of "boiling RC parts to gain hardness."

-Are there any studies that show that show the plastics produced by RPM (RC not medical products) gain hardness or become more flexible after being boiled?
-How exactly might boiling RPM products affect the parts?
-What plastic, nylon, or vinyl composites are used in the manufacturing of RPM parts such as a-arms?

Answers to the above questions and any other info you might provide will be much appreciated.
Thank you,

The following is the reply sent to me by RPM:
From: "RPM Answer Man" <>
Dear Mr. Moonweed,
I'm afraid I'm not allowed to provide any information about our materials outside of the company. However, what I can tell you is that boiling does nothing to affect the hardness of the materials. There are stresses built up during the molding process that can be relieved through boiling of the part. RPM nylons do not become weaker nor do they become "more flexible". Boiling simply removes some of those internal stresses, although it is completely unnecessary with RPM parts since we make the strongest molded components anyway.
There is another common myth perpetuated in the R/C community about RPM nylons being too flexible. Our material only flexes under extreme duress or when forces not typically found in normal driving are applied (such as when grabbing and applying twisting force by hand - not a typical suspension movement in our book and unfortunately, the common way less knowledgeable people show how "flexible" our a-arms are). When normal suspension movement is all that is affecting our suspension components, our a-arms are at least as rigid as stock components - this is a proven fact, not conjecture. During crashes or extreme circumstances, that is the only time our nylon components will "flex".
I hope this helps with some of your questions. Take care and thank you for your interest and support of RPM products. If you have any other questions or comments, please feel free to send us another e-mail.

So good call on the de-stressing, but note the comment about stresses seen in actual application.

A 6020-1 wasn't capable of inverted flight when I tried this a few months back.
Last edited by killbucket; Jul 06, 2010 at 10:35 AM.
Jul 06, 2010, 09:10 AM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar
S107 is the only heli I have tried this on, first attempt I just swapped top for bottom but the blades did not like spinning trailing edge first and leading edge trailing, after turning them upside down as well they then worked as in the video.

I have seen a video in here where a guy has done something like this with the S026 chinook.
Jul 06, 2010, 10:37 AM
I do wonder if boiling one of those glass-fragile s031 heads would help it survive my flight abilities (or lack of).
Jul 06, 2010, 02:23 PM
Fly Runaway Fans
I wouldn't boil precision parts. Some of the stresses you're "relieving" are the ones holding the dimensions where they need to be.
Jul 06, 2010, 02:34 PM
Very good point!

Given the tricks that injection molders have come up with for minimizing gates and voids, a plastic part could be loaded with internal stresses, some possibly even planned to be there.
Jul 06, 2010, 02:36 PM
Chasing dreams not d competion
Lol i wondered about the blade swapping idea for inverted flight the other night actually when i was trying the mechanics upside down in the Kamov but that didnt work and i couldnt think of a real world need for me doing to it stock, it was a buzz to see your vid lol.

Im right sometimes ya know lol, the boiling of parts was passed onto me from my father who worked a lot with plastics, he helped design nearly all electric kettles on the market actualy for a 15 year period regardless of make, whether he got the process from that work or his own experiance with models from back in the day i dont know but it stopped me having to buy wishbones for my schumachers pretty much altogether, i then moved from electrics to being a sponcered driver of a inferno so didnt need to do anymore and that was surely 20 years ago now.

As the head is held in with screws and the blades likewise i dont see much of an issue relieving steeses that may affect certain parts, from memory wishbones used to go from being very stiff to slightly bendable, if your getting through a lot of parts it cant do a lot of harm to give it a try at least one time.

Out of interest i dont know how many of you know the frames actually use a ballrace on the bottom, its wel hidden but it supprised me to see it there, it is however the only one and theres only the one which is at the bottom near the gears so i wonder if there used to be issues with either wear or movement damageing the gears on a regular basis before hand or if it was designed to be like that fromt he start, i would have thought if it was designed from the outset there would be a race at the top as well but so far i cant see one.

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