Syma s107 Helicopter - Page 106 - RC Groups
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Jul 01, 2010, 09:25 AM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar
Originally Posted by Redbaron25

....Blue S107 !!...the urge for a blue heli was too much so I painted the 107 with the new flybar - just the plastic bits though as I didn't have the nerve to paint anything mechanical. Humbrol 48 was the colour, which I just happened to find in my paint box. Bit of yellow vinyl trim to decorate.

I took the little noseweight out of the cockpit and this compensates for me removing the rear boom struts. The new flybar looks okay after a coat of matt black to hide the solder.
Looks nice and smooth, did you use an air brush?

I see I'm not the only "kitchen tinkerer" in the thread then.
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Jul 01, 2010, 09:29 AM
Metal-skinned balsa...very crafty!
Jul 01, 2010, 09:31 AM
North East England
No, just brush-painted it (I'm crap at airbrushing anyway). Some Humbrol colours seem to just flow on smoothly and Blue No.48 is one of them.

Just thought - if you get a Dolphin that may be a good one to make into a float heli as it's very light indeed, being all plastic.
Jul 01, 2010, 09:34 AM
Nice paint, I like the scheme. Gave me flashbacks to being a Cub Scout.

I'm all for polymers. Other than rods, I will likely never do any CF parts.

At least not on these.
Jul 01, 2010, 11:27 AM
Greetings from Trinidad and Tobago. I have recently become very interested in the world of rc choppers and the S107 seems like the best place to start, thus I have 2 on order. Im thinking this can become my newest hobby if all goes well.

I have read through most of the pages in this thread and say that the flybar seems to be one of the weakest links apart from the loosened lower rotor.

I intend to be very very careful with them however, besides the flybar, what other parts may be wise to get in case of damage?

PS, if I like these, very shortly afterwards I would like to get a more serious chopper, like the blade msr or other micro heli (that you guys recommend) that can be used both indoor and outdoor in light winds, preferably single rotor.

Jul 01, 2010, 12:51 PM
North East England
Welcome to the forums CptAwesome

The S107 - and the Firebird (Which is sadly unavailable here in UK at present) - are actually tough birds and it takes a hard impact to cause any sort of damage. Best advice is to fly in a large room free from obstacles while you get the hang of it, which won't take long. You'll love the flying qualities of the S107, it's a perfect introduction to helicopters.

If you aren't already aware of it from these forums, always fly for just a few minutes and land while there's still plenty of power left in the battery; this will be kinder to the battery and ensure it lasts longer. This isn't mentioned in the instruction manual (but it should be; I only leaned this myself by reading this forum).

Happy flying!
Jul 01, 2010, 01:03 PM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar
Greatings cptAwesome, welcome aboard!
The flybar is pretty sturdy, after about 20 crashes in one flight while trying to land on the coffe machine under the cupboard with only about 9" of clearance and a load of turbulance it was still flying fine.

Mine really has taken a beating and smilled it all away, at the moment it's all in bits while a work on my water landing floats project, it will be good to have it flying again.

metal covered balsa

just 3 folds of ALU was not strong enough to stop getting bent after it was formed so I made a 3 fold around a strip of balsa in the hope that it would keep the maim flat side far enough apart to stop the buckling, it appears to have worked but I still think the 5 fold square box is the strongest and coolest looking!
Last edited by djdavies83; Jul 01, 2010 at 01:04 PM. Reason: Spelling.
Jul 01, 2010, 01:43 PM
Chasing dreams not d competion
KillBucket, i only buy from 100% feedback sellers but even then they may not be quite what they seem HOWEVER we dont need to fill the thread with someones feedback, we believe you if you say its bad although to be honest any buyer who doesnt check amazon first when buying books deserves to be charged extra lol.

Redbaron, please please tell me you have a way of weighing it, i would love to know how much weight the paint has added for my Kamov project, its the main thing worrying me as i aim to use humbol as well.

Cptawesomett, welcome to the boards, my suggestion is dont run before you can walk, if your already thinking of the next heli you shouldnt have bought the first. Get the S107 delivered and get your orientation skills sorted, by that time see whats on the market then, decide what you want to do and go from there, if you want to go to out door models forget the msr's etc and go for at least a 30 size heli and get going on that, if you want to stay indoors theres lots to choose from and they will change by the time youve decided you want to upgrade or not.

Dj, maybe look into using the balsa but covering it in that alloy duct tape sold for heating ducts, its bright and shiney and sticky as hell.
Jul 01, 2010, 02:49 PM
All, thanks for your welcome, much appreciated.

RedBaron, good to hear @ durability. I've seen a lot of people her report good durability which is one of the reasons I got it. I plan on being careful but my luck doesnt have to be as good as yours

Brownout, im a bit too eager, I have not even gotten my first heli's and im already thinking about more lol. Agreed @ waiting to decide indoor or outdoor. I don't have much outdoor space around for outdoor models to make much sense for me so ill probably stick with indoor.

Its a bit too soon to say for sure so ill see how it goes.
Jul 01, 2010, 04:29 PM
Registered User
Hello all, first time post, but have enjoyed reading through these threads.

I have searched the best I can but I am not finding an answer to what I think my problem is.

I just bought the S107 and it flew amazing right away. Now after only a few uses and very minor crashes AND on a full battery I experience the following issue.

When hovering, randomly the helicopter loses all power it seems. I have read about this shaft slipping issue but I don't think that is my cause as I don't even hear the motors spinning. From all my years of RC it really seems as if it is a radio glitch. I am keeping the remote pointed at the heli at all times and at close proximity.

Has anyone ever had this? If so is it fixable? I just bought it from x h e l i (not sure if I can spell out names of business on the site). I should look to see if I can exchange it.

Before this issue this heli has been amazing.

Thanks for any help.

Jul 01, 2010, 05:06 PM
North East England
Welcome to the forums, Pete.

Maybe you have a faulty Tx but could it not be interference from another source of IR signal? I recall in another thread a few people had problems when flying next to televisions. If the heli flies okay most of the time, as you say, then I'd look at this as being one possible cause.

I assume you're charging from the USB cable and not the Tx - apart from taking longer via the Tx, it runs down the batteries which can lead to loss of signal in extreme cases.

Brownout - sorry but I have no scales to weigh anything On my fixed-wings I just choose the wood carefully, go easy with the glue and never bother with how much it weighs, as it's out of my hands. I can't see the paint adding much weight as it was just one coat and applied thinly and evenly.
Jul 01, 2010, 05:07 PM
Registered User
is thr ir-receiver still connected properly (check soldering)
it's on the bottom rear sticking out.
or maybe you get to close to a window(sunlight),mine gets funny also when it sees the sun.
Last edited by taspo; Jul 01, 2010 at 05:13 PM.
Jul 01, 2010, 05:11 PM
Registered User
Thanks for the responses.

The ir-receiver appears to be fine, the solder joints are solid and it is not lose.

As far as IR interference, that is a possiblity, I am flying it in a conference room at work and around the hallways, maybe there is some kind of IR related things going on in the office?

I am indeed charging the heli from the USB, as I hated my other heli for having to charge from the remote killing the AA's.

Is it possible I have a faulty IR Receiver on the heli, or on the Tx?
Jul 01, 2010, 05:17 PM
Registered User
are there any ir-burglar things or something,maybe try it somewhere else
where you are sure it isn't
Jul 01, 2010, 08:25 PM
Registered User

just push it

Originally Posted by Sir Raleigh
Yesterday I posted that one of my S107's started loosing power and wouldn't lift off the floor, even with a fully charged battery.

I found that the lower rotor blade holder was slipping on the outer shaft and after 3 tries at repair I think I finally have it fixed.

The only way I could see to glue the blade holder to the shaft was to use the spacer that's between the lower and upper blades. Applying glue any where else was taking the risk that the inner shaft would bind to the outer shaft or the outer shaft would bind to the sleeve that runs through the heli's guts.

The first repair attempt was using GWS glue and I was hoping the contact strength would be enough to keep the blade holder from slipping on the shaft. This didn't work.

A suggestion was made to use Gorilla glue. I tried that with only partial success. I successfully glued the blade holder to the spacer, but the Gorilla glue sheared off where I glued the spacer to the outer shaft just under the upper rotor. I think I may have just put it on too thin.

The third try was Epoxy and seems to be successful. The heli is flying just like new now. So far I've only flown one battery charge (three 2 minute flights) and it's still holding. We'll see how it goes over time. If it fails again I'll report back, but as long as it holds I'll just fly it.

If you use this method to fix a slipping lower rotor, be aware there is very little area to work with when gluing the spacer back to the outer shaft just under the upper rotor blade holder. It might be worthwhile to cut the spacer back a few mm before gluing to give more surface area and also move the glob of glue further down from the upper rotor holder.

I may order replacement parts (inner shaft, outer shaft, both blade holders, and a complete set of gears) just in case I need to do a major repair later.

Pics of the repair are below.

I had the same problem and I was able to simply push the rotor down toward the frame (it moved nearly 1 cm) and it became tightly fastened again.

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