DIY CNC Router for modelers - Page 11 - RC Groups
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Oct 14, 2011, 04:25 AM
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michaelghammer's Avatar
Ciao Claudio
Sembra buono...

And your CNC Router looks very sturdy with cast aluminium gantry sides.


Thanks Ward. I´m glad you like it.

- Michael Hammer
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Oct 15, 2011, 05:49 AM
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Aggiungo altre 2 foto della mia cnc le misure utili del piano di lavoro sono: asse X 700 mm. - asse Y 600 mm. - asse Z 97,50 mm.
Il motore Turnigy viene alimentato con 2 batterie da motocicletta a 12 V. 10 Ah. in serie = 24 V. 10 Ah oppure con trasformatore 35 V. 7 Ah. Come si può vedere ho montato un'elica propulsiva per contenere il calore del motore che si attesta a circa 45 g° celsius. Allego piccolo video
MVI_0068.AVI (1 min 4 sec)
Last edited by CAP257RM; Oct 16, 2011 at 09:49 AM.
Oct 15, 2011, 06:47 AM
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Volevo fare presente che prima di montare il motore Turnigy ho dovuto provvedere al bilanciamento della campana (rotore) togliendo del collante tra i magneti dov'era più pesante ed aggiungendo delle palline di acciaio dov'era più leggero avendo cura di incollare tutto con collante bicomponente e poi lisciare tutto con della carta smeriglio, perchè aveva delle vibrazioni paurose che avrebbero rotto i cuscinetti del motore, allego alcune foto.
Last edited by CAP257RM; Oct 16, 2011 at 05:18 AM.
Oct 20, 2011, 09:46 PM
Peakaboo!
Gwelan's Avatar

Preliminary drawings of my CNC project


Hi guys!
I love this thread. It is filled with precious information and amazing CNC ideas.

Last winter I had a lot of time to think about what could be build with some old vertical blind posts I picked in a container and Rollerblade bearings.
I had to figure out how to limit the torque imposed to the spindle support build with flimsy aluminium parts. I may be wrong but I think this could be achieved with double tracks disposed symetrically arround the spindle axis and placed as close as possible to the work surface to limit the torsion effect.

Here is a rendering of that CNC.
Oct 21, 2011, 12:13 AM
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I would stay away from thin channels. Most try to have the bearings run on hard surfaces like steel. Aluminum will wear faster, and can get chips ground into it. Try to keep the bearing surfaced covered, or under the table.
Many people find it hard to get a router table stiff enough for cutting much more than soft things like foam, when they go light.
Oct 21, 2011, 04:30 PM
Peakaboo!
Gwelan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto Rob
I would stay away from thin channels. Most try to have the bearings run on hard surfaces like steel. Aluminum will wear faster, and can get chips ground into it. Try to keep the bearing surfaced covered, or under the table.
Many people find it hard to get a router table stiff enough for cutting much more than soft things like foam, when they go light.
That's precisely the kind of advices I was looking for. Bearings will be mounted using the steel bridles method instead of sliding on thin alu channels.

Thank you, rob.
Oct 24, 2011, 08:31 PM
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Have a problem with this desing. The orginal axel seems to be stuck. Any ideas how the get it away from the structure? I loosen the screw already
Oct 25, 2011, 03:38 AM
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Remove the setscrew, and push the shaft out. Some heat can help.
Oct 25, 2011, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto Rob
Remove the setscrew, and push the shaft out. Some heat can help.
I have already removed the screw. And tryed to hit the shaft with a hammer but it wont come out. I will try heat next time. Does cold work as well or does it need to be spot heat or cold?
Oct 25, 2011, 11:32 AM
Fly 3D Mon!
3DMON's Avatar
You should not use a hammer. It needs to be pressed out. If you have a vice or a drill press you can use a shaft a little smaller to press the motor shaft out.
Oct 29, 2011, 12:22 PM
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Jan Rune's Avatar
Thanks for the idea guys! I just bought an 1968KV watercooled brushless motor for my PCB router (attachment for my Sieg SX3 CNC) with an 8mm shaft. I have also bought an ER11 tool holder(8mm shank), 60A ESC and a water pump. Will let you guys know how it turns out. Cheers!

Oct 30, 2011, 03:59 AM
That tree again!!!!
thanhTran's Avatar
I have a MaxNC 15 CNC milling machine. So I replaced the stock motor with a brushless motor and wow, what a difference did it make. The brushless motor is a lot quieter. I experiment with this machine a lot in the middle of the night so the low noise is really important to me. Plus I don't have to wear an earplug .

Thanks Michael very much for the idea

-Thanh
Nov 10, 2011, 10:56 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by p3jpaavi
I have already removed the screw. And tryed to hit the shaft with a hammer but it wont come out. I will try heat next time. Does cold work as well or does it need to be spot heat or cold?
I looked the shaft closer and it seems to be clued all over. Do you guys know motor that is not clued like that. With that amount of glue the only way to take the shaft away is to drill is away. ...
Nov 12, 2011, 08:15 AM
Friend is a 4 letter word...
JussiH's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by p3jpaavi
I looked the shaft closer and it seems to be clued all over. Do you guys know motor that is not clued like that. With that amount of glue the only way to take the shaft away is to drill is away. ...
You did try and heat the joint to about 100C? Most glues and threadlocks start to break apart at those kind of temperatures. Put it in a sift and place it over a pot of boiling water for 10-20 mins.....

100C is acceptable, going higher will make the can magnet loose power.

Alternatively, I would immerse the can in acetone and let it sit for some hours and then try and press (or hammer) out the axle.
Feb 16, 2012, 07:33 PM
Registered User
It looks like the Turnigy 50-xx line has been discontinued at HK.
Does anyone know of a similarly priced alternative?


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