Kevin - I replied to your email.

I did you back

I've been using your 24V47A power supplies for a few years now.
First on a Powerlab 8 and the last two seasons on an iCharger duo 410. I've been very happy with my setup over the last many seasons.

I was just curious about something, the Duo 410 can take up to 50 volts input.
Seems to me that using a higher voltage PSU would be beneficial in that the amperage would be lower for a given charge draw and therefore less heat and longer component life... Am I correct?
Or am I just wasting bits typing all this.
What kind of lifespan can I expect out of the 24V47A from you that I currently use.
There are currently a few 48v PSU available commercially, do you have anything.

Thanks for your input and thanks for all the help you offer us hobbyists.
Dany

Dany
The power supplies I sell are used but they are built using very high quality parts. I have no stats on lifespan except the first year because I offer the one year warranty. I have few (but some) returns. I test each one to full power before it ships and that weeds out a few.

As for the 48V input, I have no source. I have combined 4 12V supplies for 48V but they did not last very long. Probably because they were not built for a high voltage offset from ground. A 48V power supply would reduce input current and maybe make it run a little cooler. It depends mostly on your maximum charging Watts.

The 4010 Duo is capable of a 50V input but you cannot get full output (2,000 Watts) unless you have at least 34V input.
So what kind of an output is possible with a 24V 47A power supply? Since the charger input current is limited to 65A, then the charge output limit is determined by the power supply.
24V X 47A X 90% = 1,015 Watts
That is about half of its capabilities. So I always ask my customers if they really need or will use 2,000 Watts of charge power and where they can plug a 2,200 W power supply. They may be overspending on a charger just because it is powerful.

BTW you can use a little more if the 4010's capacity if you buy one of my 24V 69A power supplies.
24V X 65A X 90% = 1,404 Watts

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

Dany
The power supplies I sell are used but they are built using very high quality parts. I have no stats on lifespan except the first year because I offer the one year warranty. I have few (but some) returns. I test each one to full power before it ships and that weeds out a few.

As for the 48V input, I have no source. I have combined 4 12V supplies for 48V but they did not last very long. Probably because they were not built for a high voltage offset from ground. A 48V power supply would reduce input current and maybe make it run a little cooler. It depends mostly on your maximum charging Watts.

The 4010 Duo is capable of a 50V input but you cannot get full output (2,000 Watts) unless you have at least 34V input.
So what kind of an output is possible with a 24V 47A power supply? Since the charger input current is limited to 65A, then the charge output limit is determined by the power supply.
24V X 47A X 90% = 1,015 Watts
That is about half of its capabilities. So I always ask my customers if they really need or will use 2,000 Watts of charge power and where they can plug a 2,200 W power supply. They may be overspending on a charger just because it is powerful.

BTW you can use a little more if the 4010's capacity if you buy one of my 24V 69A power supplies.
24V X 65A X 90% = 1,404 Watts

Thanks for taking the time to reply with such detail. It's easy to get lost in the numbers game and lose sight of actual needs.
I like the duo because of the two independent channels but I have actually never charged anything at more than 25 amps anyway.
Most I've ever done is some 6S batteries on one side at 25 amps and 4s batteries on the other side at 25 amps.
for a maximum of 1,050 watts.
So my current setup suites me fine as is.
Although if I were to want to charge 4 x 6s 5000mah batteries at 2c, your 69A power supply would be useful. But then again that would be pushing my Honda 2000 generator to its limit.

So, after all this pondering I think I'll just stay as I am.
But I will probably buy another one of your power supplies as a second unit, for travel or for home not to mention being a backup.
Either your 24v 69a or maybe your 24v 75a for the smaller size. I'll see come spring time :-)

Thanks again for your shared knowledge and input.
Dany

I was using mine at the field today and had it stop working till it reset it self. the fan ran but no green light

I wonder why... Are you running it from a generator?

110 from our power line at the field. And the same from home

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

I wonder why... Are you running it from a generator?

Just wondering why you asked this question, are generators problematic?
I use mine on my Generator all the time, Honda 2000.

Generators can be problematic when operated at or near full capacity. I have seen some get unstable. Best to have some margin of capacity.

Understood.
I think I'll stick with the current setup, it's been working for me for a few years already so if it ain't broke...

My psu arrived today (sooner than expected), was looking at the DC outputs and trying to determine the best way to get a good solid connection to them.

Are the output pins all tied together internally, if so would tying them together just behind the socket be helpful?
Best I can figure is to flatten and tin a large 8ga or so wire, tin and flux the pins with flux then solder it by applying heat to the wire as close to the pins as possible, then heat shrink over any exposed wire.
Is their a better way or some sort of connector that can be used?

Also curious as to the functions of the center pins , I imagine they are for 5v out , status signaling, etc. But a pinout would be great if available.

I intend to build and use this as a pass thru vape power supply in an open top case with 3 XT60 connectors (each with an additional cap) down the side of the enclosure, the capacitors is to provide additional buffering for Vape Mods, and I have plenty of extras.

For others looking for info on this it follows pinky of the IBM 835w
Essentially the leftmost connector is labeled from left to right , you can see on the Feathermerchant psu's where pins 3 an 4 (pin 3 power on and pin 4 ground) have been soldered together. Also a 5k potentiometer can be soldered between pin 17 (voltage sense) and ground (4 , 19 ), this will allow single units to get to 13.5-13.6v before the voltage protection kicks in and shuts it down. Presumably you could get up to 27v from a dual setup, but experiment at your own risk. If you aren't electronically proficient , can solder , understand basic circuitry, and comfortable building/modding the same, you are probably much better off just using the supply as it is shipped. Its really not worth killing your warranty and blowing up a good supply in an effort to try and add extras, that may or may not work as expected.

Have a look at my website where you will see how I have made the various connections. I do tin/flatten/solder wires into the 'ports' making a permanent connection. Be careful not to melt the plastic near the contacts. My 800degF tip will melt it quickly.

There are 3 high current ports. They all have contacts top and bottom to act as edge connectors to a circuit board.
The left one is ground top and bottom.
The center one is 12V top and ground bottom. I don't use this one.
The right one is 12V top and bottom.

Hi Guy's If posting on the wrong forum, let me know. I bought 2 HP 750 watt PSU, for conversion to 24v output, with one as the float, and set voltage to 12.5 each, so far no prob. The question is can I pull 12 volts off just one , while supplying 24v to my other chargers, or can I only do one or the other? If I can do both, which psu do I take the 12v from? And if not I assume I need to run a switch so only one is powered, what is the best method to do this? Or just better to buy another PSU for dedicated 12v operation?

Neal

Please delete if inappropriate, seeking a price and/or help DIYing

I want a pair of PSUs, together more than maxing out the 4010Duo, say 70+A ?

Same level of safety / build quality as HP ESP120 but as a pair, and more flexible on inputs

source mains 50 or 60 Hz, 110-240V, so worldwide compatibility.

easily stackable or able to be disconnected for when only low amp mains source circuits are available, each run off a separate one, then DC paralleled into the iCharger. Or just run off a single PSU if needed.

Capable of running safely in an off-grid no-true-ground context like a wheeled-vehicle-based generator, as well as in a properly grounded building.

Ground leakage circuit breakers, ELCB's, or residual current devices, RCD's, etc will be common.

Dunno if I will come across "split phase" 120V/208V often, but would be nice if I didn't have to worry about checking for it.

Also dunno if relevant, but apparently some locations will have a "full 3 phase supply" available.

Located east coast USA, ideally quote with shipping included.