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Old Dec 25, 2009, 02:23 AM
Jevgeniy is offline
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Help!

Hitec Aurora 9 reversed polarity damage


One guy here purchased Aurora 9 and imidiately installed lipo, but reversed polarity. Now he has found some electrician but they need part number. He sent me picture and is asking me to check out one part number, but I do not have my Aurora with me on holidays. I'm allmost sure thet that part (transistor probably) must have same part number as two other similar parts, but he want to know it for sure. If this part number is known to you or you are planing to open your A9, we will apriciate your help. And some one in future probably will find it useful too.
Thank you.
Last edited by Jevgeniy; Dec 25, 2009 at 02:30 AM.
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Old Dec 25, 2009, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jevgeniy View Post
One guy here purchased Aurora 9 and imidiately installed lipo, but reversed polarity. Now he has found some electrician but they need part number. He sent me picture and is asking me to check out one part number, but I do not have my Aurora with me on holidays. I'm allmost sure thet that part (transistor probably) must have same part number as two other similar parts, but he want to know it for sure. If this part number is known to you or you are planing to open your A9, we will apriciate your help. And some one in future probably will find it useful too.
Thank you.
I burnt my too, but I have not replaced the burn capacitor yet. I just unshorted it by lifting the metal plate, and it works but I'll replace it as soon as the festivities pass and I have some time. I contacted hitec and the here is what they told me.

Tantalum capacitor (16V, 47uF, 20%).
Old Dec 25, 2009, 03:26 AM
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Thank you very much !
Old Dec 25, 2009, 10:08 AM
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I don't know where you are located but I did the same thing on an Optic 6. I sent it to Hitec in California. They received it on Friday, fixed it and sent it back on the next Monday and only charged me $23. It may be a different story if not located in the USA, but I would really consider sending it to a certified Hitec rpair shop regardless of location. What shorted was there to do just that to protect the rest of the radio. If the repairman is not 100% positive more damage could be done. Just my $.02 worth.
Old Dec 25, 2009, 02:49 PM
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That has to be one negative. You would think this could be guarded against in 2009 with modern components. That is one point of poor design. We better make sure there is good design in any mods to the power source with "T's" or other fool-proof connects.
Old Dec 25, 2009, 03:01 PM
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That has to be one negative. You would think this could be guarded against in 2009 with modern components. That is one point of poor design. We better make sure there is good design in any mods to the power source with "T's" or other fool-proof connects.
Sorry but you can't take the "fool" out of foolproof. My Optic 6 has a polarized plug. I was making a new battery pack and ordered a non-hitec plug that looked just like the battery pack plug for the Optic 6. I plugged the plug in the tx to see if it would fit before attaching it to the battery pack. I soldered the pack to the plug and plugged it in. When turning on the TX I got the magic puff of smoke and Tx was inop. I compared the new plug to the old. Only then did I notice that the body of the plugs were identical but the OEM plug on my Hitec pack had the red wire on the left and the black on the right. The one I used had the red on the right and I didn't catch it in time. The problem was not the engineering, it was me, the fool. If someone did the same thing with an A9 how can you say that is an engineering negative?
Old Dec 26, 2009, 02:05 AM
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Yes. I understand what you are saying but there are all sorts of RC devices that can be plugged in in error and survive. I think the equipment should have "forgiven" you your error. Coming from one who modified Eclipse, Prism 7, etc packs for years and was very careful. Then one day I had a brain fart and had to send an Eclipse in. The Aurora could have improved on that scenario. Just a 3 pin connection with one outside pin going nowhere would prevent the situation, would it not? Same as receivers? How simple is that?? Futaba uses a receiver plug in the 9C and I believe that solves the problem.

But hey I used to get paid to think outside the box(I know very overused phrase nowadays).
Old Dec 26, 2009, 03:44 AM
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The reversed battery setup has killed many a Hitec O6/E7 (just search these forums for proof of that).

A better connector (such as the three-pin suggested by 4*60) would eliminate the chance of someone inserting the connector incorrectly but it won't help when someone wires up a battery wrongly.

A simple diode would solve that problem but it is yet another component which means more cost and something else to go wrong.
Old Dec 26, 2009, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickochet View Post
Sorry but you can't take the "fool" out of foolproof.
Amen to that - also that modifying a new tx will usually void any warranty. Still don't understand the whole changing to lipo in tx, my tx with standard pack will go well over 2 hours, which equates to about 8 flights a day - will beep if gets low which it never has -
Old Dec 26, 2009, 02:27 PM
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Wow.. two hours?

On a good day, we'll put in about 4-5 hours flying (and I mean *flying*, not just standing around talking about flying ;-))

You could just get a decent field-charger and top-up your radio after every couple of flights -- that way you can fly all day, even on the stock pack.
Old Dec 26, 2009, 03:17 PM
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not everybody flies on a airfield. I fly slope 100% of the, and many of the slopes require a long hike. I have a 2100mAh LSD NIMH which lasts more than 8 hours flying not just standing around and talking and it will probably go for another 4 hours. And if I had the stock battery I would have to go home early.
Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:39 PM
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I have been charging my Aurora at the field with the battery in the Tx for a few months now ( yes I now know, bad bad, don't do it!! ) and I have now smoked it

Since warranty wont cover it I opened it up and looked it over, it looks similar to the reverse polarity damage up top. Not as much soot on the PCB but EC1 is definitely toasted... It was shorted but de-soldering it (will get new one later) does not fix the issue, the Aurora is still dead. Got a hint to look at the DC/DC converter below it (IC3). It is marked F150 does anyone know this type of converter?
Old Jul 16, 2010, 11:20 AM
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Were you fast charging the stock battery, or charging a lipo in the transmitter
If you were using a lipo, how many cells
Pete
Old Jul 16, 2010, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pilotpete2 View Post
Were you fast charging the stock battery, or charging a lipo in the transmitter
If you were using a lipo, how many cells
Pete
Stock NiMH battery at 120mA. Have been doing it for a few months so I thought it was OK but it was obviously NOT
Old Jul 16, 2010, 07:54 PM
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Nothing wrong with charging the stock battery in the transmitter at that rate. Contact Hitec, I'm would think they'd take care of it.
Good luck,
Pete


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