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Old May 09, 2003, 10:09 AM
Billy Haynes is offline
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My 1st MotorWorks conv. need some help please


My local Mega-Lo-Mart (otherwise known as Wal-Mart) has stocked Motor Works r/c cars. I built an airframe. W.S. 22", W.A. 115.5 sq.", weight 17grams. As it is, it takes 11grams (25cent) nose weight to achieve c.g. for a nice glide. My questions will follow........
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Old May 09, 2003, 10:14 AM
Billy Haynes is offline
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my gearbox


I hacked off the rear of the car. I put the axle shaft on the idler pulley (3:1). I couldn't find anything plastic that fit over the shaft to prevent it from coming off so I used a wheel coller. I hot glued a 3x1.25 prop on. It may be too much prop, but I can alwasy trim it down if it don't work. The motor turns it pretty good, but don't know how much load it's putting on the motor with such a low gearing.
Old May 09, 2003, 10:19 AM
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steering-rudder


The motor works use's 1 coil for steering. Now how can I turn this into something to move the rudder? I would like to use a pull-pull system. I've gone through lost of post & haven't found good info on this (keep in mind how many post on this subject there is). But anything that would be light & work is fine. Also I see many people are removing the led. What advantage is this, longer run time?
Old May 09, 2003, 01:06 PM
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possible solution


I could glue on the coil holer a cont. arm. It would exit through the top cover. Then I'd just have to make a small wire connected to a horn. So what ya think about that? I want to go with something simple since it's my first..........
Old May 09, 2003, 04:31 PM
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Help


O.K. someone please help. I mounted everything, balances good. The rudder servo wont work connected to the rudder. I hinged the rudder on one side with tape. Used dubro micro horn, micro wire w/o the plastic tube. Disconnected from the rudder & wire just resting on the stab, the "servo" arm will try to move about half way either direction. Should I try "stronger" magnets or move the servo to the tail? What about increasing the voltage? How many cells/volts can these car boards take safely?
Old May 09, 2003, 06:10 PM
Pierre Audette is offline
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There is very little force available for steering. It's likely that your tape rudder is hard to move. Cut some slits more or less evenly in the tape to reduce the overall length that needs to be flexed. Most people have used rubber band hinges to reduce the load.
Old May 09, 2003, 06:50 PM
flybynite is offline
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Billy,
The bit recievers can handle up to 5 v typically. You'll get more power out of the actuator with more cells, and with the extra drag of linkage, you'll need it. The rubber hinges are good to provide self centering, but also increase the force needed to move the rudder. You should read the long bit conversion thread, as it will answere many issues that you will confront as you progress toward flight. Also check out the "working bit conversions" thread, as you can see what has worked so far. good luck.
Old May 09, 2003, 07:27 PM
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Here is one way to do a remote actuator. But I
prefer the rudder mounted style for single coils. I'll try to find a pic of the rudder mounted style I use, it's very easy to do and is very adjustable. You will most likely need more voltage.
Mike
Old May 10, 2003, 03:24 PM
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AUW


The only flyers I have seen that were successful with the stock motor weighed under 16 g., but I may have missed something.

I hope you can get yours to fly with the stock motor, but it may be too much for the little beast.

John
Old May 10, 2003, 03:34 PM
Alfredo Rubio is offline
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My POU DU CIEL ( you can see it in TINY CARS...TINY PLANES??? has 2 rubber hinges, is the firs time I tryed, and works fine, I found clear tape hinges some time has dificult as resist to travel all the way to the sides, and the rubber hinges hel too to mantain the rudder in central position in stright flight... and weighs 25 gms. and flew great...

I flew ( as many of us) with a d.d. N20 h.v. motor and 1 Li-poly 140 mah cell and the time of flight may be very long ....

Your plane is very beauty, and I think will be a winner...


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