Tug Build - 'Peninsula' - RC Groups
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Dec 17, 2009, 09:18 PM
Nickel Belter
ZZ56's Avatar
Build Log

Tug Build - 'Peninsula'

This will be hull no. 2 from my 'boatyard', figured I'd get a start on it while I wait for parts to come in and while it's too cold to be out sailing.

It's taken a couple of weeks to get to this stage, including what seemed like forever piecing together the frame spacing and frames from a very old scan of the original Lines plan. The tug will be about 42" by 10" in 1:32 scale, powered by a Buehler power seat motor turning a 70 mm four-blade prop. Hopefully that setup will have enough 'grunt' to do some towing.

Right now I have a question about thicknessing planks. I cut some from clear pine and planed them to 2.5 mm by half an inch, and they seem pretty stiff when it comes to bending them around the frames. What is the thinnest practical thickness you can get using an ordinary power planer? I don't have access to a thickness sander or a planer with a rotary cutterhead.
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Dec 17, 2009, 09:43 PM
Boats on the brain!!
green-boat's Avatar
If you have a drill press you can chuck up a drum sander and screw down a fence. Feed the strips into the drum sander and adjust the fence to get the desired thickness.
Dec 17, 2009, 10:14 PM
Nickel Belter
ZZ56's Avatar
Oh thanks, why didn't I think of that?

Should the strips be fed so the drum is pushing them or pulling them?
Dec 17, 2009, 11:53 PM
Registered User
ZZ56 If you have a thickness planer, you can make an auxiliary table for it that mounts on the infeed/outfeed table and plane them to thickness. Being careful and a slow feed I have made planks 1/8" thick. It works best with one slowly feeding the planks into the planer and then another pulling them from the back side to finish the cut. If using a sander drum in the drillpress, the drum is going CW so you need a fence on the RH side and feed them against the drum, pulling them through the final few inches. Jerryj98501
Dec 18, 2009, 09:12 AM
Registered User
Jerome Morris's Avatar
ZZ56, the drum want to be pushing the piece back toward you. The other way will snap from your hand so quick, you won't know what happened.
Dec 18, 2009, 09:19 AM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
Ahh, the promise of a new-framed hull!

Looks good, wish I had time...
Dec 21, 2009, 09:12 PM
Commercial fishermen united
if you want some more pictures of the tug i can go and take some, shes sitting down at the shipyard now
Dec 22, 2009, 02:36 AM
Nickel Belter
ZZ56's Avatar
Thanks! Actually, could you get me some photos of the stern grating, main winch and forward winch? The plans just give a basic outline.

I've started planking, photos tomorrow when I'm more awake.
Dec 22, 2009, 10:03 AM
Commercial fishermen united
yea forsure i can go and ask for the tour and get all photos
Dec 22, 2009, 12:03 PM
3 Blades to the Wind
Shaun Hendricks's Avatar
I've found that with a nice, sharp, carbide blade in my table saw I can shave paper thin (well cardstock thin) pieces off. Most of the wood would go to waste in the sawing but it might still be cheaper than buying planking.

You can also get really thin cuts off of a bandsaw.

To finish either, try the drill press idea or clamp a belt sander down to a table and feed from behind the beltsander. It's the same process. The beltsander won't leave as many divots, but you need to be careful as it will remove stock fast. Finding fine grit belts isn't always easy either!
Dec 22, 2009, 12:30 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
Sounds like a pain.
I just LOVE my thickness sander!

And my bandsaw, for conveniently ripping 1/2" wide planks off pine boards:

Dec 22, 2009, 03:01 PM
Nickel Belter
ZZ56's Avatar
Pat, is that a Ryobi? My dad had one and I found it to be the screechiest beast. When he cut hardwoods for pen-turning with it, you could hear it through the whole house.

I really, really wish i had one of those thickness sanders because making planks myself has literally fifth'd the cost from my last project. Maybe I could go 'halfsies' on it with my dad, if he had a use for it. For now, I just use a block plane, thins them down in a couple passes with less mess and no danger of throwing planks into a wall, or me.

Progress so far. Lots of stealers need to be fitted on this build!

The powerplant. Need to keep that long driveshaft so I can mount it forward enough that it sits just behind the main superstructure hatch. Doesn't show any wobbling at full power so far.
Dec 22, 2009, 05:16 PM
Registered User
http://www.luthiersfriend.com/ Here is a basic thickness attachment for the drill press which should show you how one works. Buy one from them or DIY with the given pictures. Jerryj98501
Dec 22, 2009, 06:27 PM
Commercial fishermen united
once you have the hull built, they have the steel plates over lapped, JMO you could use a dremmel and etch in the lines and lay a thicker piece of string before you epoxy over..gives her that welded look!!! by the way are you from Thunder Bay???
Dec 22, 2009, 07:43 PM
Nickel Belter
ZZ56's Avatar
Dad's half of the family is from Thunder Bay, my grandfather worked in the lumber camps in WWII and up through the ranks in the paper mill.

I take it the Peninsula has a flush-welded hull. I am thinking about actually putting plates on it with 10 thou styrene sheet, might be easier than filling and sanding and filling and sanding the fiberglass to a glassy finish.

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