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Old Apr 22, 2011, 12:53 AM
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Hey guys - How do you remove that screw in the nose cone? I can't seem to get it out.
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by NOTAR 600 View Post
Hey wow!

Here is a motor that might be fun on a light stryker. Don's RC has this 2200kv brushless outrunner firewall type mounting......only 29 grams. A little small for what I've been used to. This one has been tested with up to a 6x4 prop which pushes a stryker real good but I'm afraid it would overheat. The 5x5 would probly work better.

http://donsrc.com/cart/index.php?act...d&productId=63
I have a couple of WickedJr motors. They are good for speed, but at 2200kv and a small prop, may not have the thrust for unlimited vertical.
Old Apr 22, 2011, 09:49 AM
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I reach in the nose with some needle nose plier and drag that screw out. It is very stupid that parkzone still put those screws in there.
Old Apr 22, 2011, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ssteven1 View Post
I reach in the nose with some needle nose plier and drag that screw out. It is very stupid that parkzone still put those screws in there.
Thank you! I'll try that since unscrewing with screwdriver didn't work for me.
Old Apr 22, 2011, 01:31 PM
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I use a long super skinny screwdriver (or any stiff small diameter rod) and push it down through the foam from the top side so it pushes the screw down and out the original hole. Then spackle both holes with DAP fast-n-final from walmart (best type to use for filling voids in foam IMHO).
Old Apr 22, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Thanks guys! I ended up sticking a skinny needle nose plier in there and yanking it out. It wasn't easy. Luckily, I had some foam bits that I filled the hole with along with some Gorilla Glue.
Old Apr 22, 2011, 02:41 PM
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That wicked jr motor looks like a good I just ordered one to try.
Last edited by ssteven1; Apr 24, 2011 at 10:11 PM.
Old Apr 22, 2011, 10:26 PM
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Finally got the Stryker built. But it ended up not being so light at 13 oz. I'm going to run the 2712-17 motor with a 8040 prop on 2S 20C 1000mah. If that's not enough, I'll go up to a 3S 30C 1000mah with the 7035 prop.

Thank you for all the advice and help guys!!



Old Apr 23, 2011, 10:23 AM
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That looks good imposter. At that weight you probably will not be happy on the 2 cell and will need the three cell. Make sure you get the COG right before you fly. It should fly fine at that weight on three cell.
If you want to lighten the plane up even more later you can replace those stock fins with foam. Those stock fins are heavy. Replace those stock fins and run a 800-600 ma three cell and you should drop about two ounces.
Old Apr 23, 2011, 10:36 AM
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Thanks for the advice ssteven, I'm trying to find some of the depron foam but looks like I have to buy bulk online since they don't just sell 1 sheet of it.
Old Apr 23, 2011, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by impostor View Post
...trying to find some of the depron foam but looks like I have to buy bulk online since they don't just sell 1 sheet of it.
I'm hoping to use DollarTree foam (without the paper) for fins, elevons and battery cover.

But... $Tree foam is pretty flimsy without the paper. Anyone tried this? Got any advice?

I have a carbon strip I could glue to the elevons to stiffen it up.

For elevons: I've had folks recommend 3/16 Balsa (got some, doesn't seem too robust) or 3/16 basswood (got some, much more robust but also heavier).

I've seen coroplast used for fins and that does seem to be plenty stiff and light weight too?
Old Apr 23, 2011, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by impostor View Post
Finally got the Stryker built. But it ended up not being so light at 13 oz. I'm going to run the 2712-17 motor with a 8040 prop on 2S 20C 1000mah. If that's not enough, I'll go up to a 3S 30C 1000mah with the 7035 prop.

Thank you for all the advice and help guys!!

I've seen folks painting the whole bottom black to get enough contrast against the sky. Any experience on how stripes like this work? Well enough? I do want to keep the weight down. I like the way this looks in the picture but don't want to lose the plane when it gets up high!
Old Apr 23, 2011, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by herk1 View Post
I used that same plastic stick mount on my lightweight Stryker (though I bought mine from HobbyKing). When I installed the mount, I attempted to align it parallel to the top/bottom centerline of the fuse, NOT to the top surface of the fuse (which angles down toward the back because of the tapering fuse/wing thickness). So the stick mount is embedded a little deeper towards the front. See the attached photo. It worked out just fine that way inflight...there are no sudden pitch-change effects when increasing or decreasing power. There is a build description and another photo of my lightweight Stryker here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1337131
Thanks so much for posting this! I'm very new to building and only know enough to wonder what to do about thrust angle.
Old Apr 23, 2011, 05:06 PM
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I've seen folks painting the whole bottom black to get enough contrast against the sky. Any experience on how stripes like this work? Well enough? I do want to keep the weight down. I like the way this looks in the picture but don't want to lose the plane when it gets up high!
My Super Cub has the stripes on the bottom like this and I can see it ok at the height I'm flying at (2X tree height). I haven't maiden this one yet so I don't know how it'll be for the Stryker.
Old Apr 23, 2011, 08:54 PM
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If you can see the supercub you should be able to see the stryker. Fly it and see.


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