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Old Jan 06, 2010, 10:54 AM
Redster is offline
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Steve,

I have the tow running from mid wing underneath one wing ,to the nose then to the other side of the wing.
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 10:27 PM
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Steve Chamberlin
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inanimate carbon rod, hooray!


OK, I bought some 1mm x 3mm carbon fiber rod, but I'm unsure how to mount it on the nose.

Should I cut a wide shallow channel 3mm wide and 1mm deep, and lay the rod down flat along the nose? That will conform to the curve of the nose, but I'm not convinced that will actually strengthen it, since the rod bends on that axis and it won't resist left/right bending of the nose.

Or should I cut a narrow deep channel 1mm wide and 3mm deep? On this axis the rod is very stiff and so it won't conform to the curve of the nose. I'd have to cut the channel very deep (much deeper than 3mm) in the areas of biggest nose curvature, the mount the rod inside it without any flex.

Hopefully those descriptions make sense. It's hard to put into words, but if you done a CF nose reinforcement before then hopefully you understand what I mean.
Old Jan 06, 2010, 11:17 PM
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a.k.a. Bob Parks

Nose Rods


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Originally Posted by schamberlin View Post
OK, I bought some 1mm x 3mm carbon fiber rod, but I'm unsure how to mount it on the nose.

Should I cut a wide shallow channel 3mm wide and 1mm deep, and lay the rod down flat along the nose? That will conform to the curve of the nose, but I'm not convinced that will actually strengthen it, since the rod bends on that axis and it won't resist left/right bending of the nose.

Or should I cut a narrow deep channel 1mm wide and 3mm deep? On this axis the rod is very stiff and so it won't conform to the curve of the nose. I'd have to cut the channel very deep (much deeper than 3mm) in the areas of biggest nose curvature, the mount the rod inside it without any flex.

Hopefully those descriptions make sense. It's hard to put into words, but if you done a CF nose reinforcement before then hopefully you understand what I mean.

On mine, I just pushed the carbon rods through the foam from the nose toward the wing saddle. I used three .060 round rods. one on each side and one on top.

After the glue dried on the broken nose with the rods inside, I taped clear around the nose with packing tape, to hold the belly pan on better. The nose seems to fail when the belly pan is not secure on the nose. Make sure it is well taped all around the pan. The blenderm tape seems a bit soft for that job.

Bob P
Old Jan 06, 2010, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schamberlin View Post
Thanks. I should have mentioned, I did switch to the same solution you described before my first flight, instead of using the DX6i's broken built-in elevon mixing. I left the differential set at 0 for the Alula, though. What are other people using for differential settings with this glider?
Having flown the original Alula for quite a bit with no diferential, my thoughts are ail diff on such a lightly loaded low aspect glider is not needed.
Old Jan 07, 2010, 12:44 AM
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yakhakker: be careful on catches and nose hits with that weight in there. my weight is there too. one shot crumples the whole nose! yeah i found out. a little CA and its good as new!
Old Jan 07, 2010, 10:47 AM
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flying is not a dream
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekletke View Post
Having flown the original Alula for quite a bit with no diferential, my thoughts are ail diff on such a lightly loaded low aspect glider is not needed.
30% was finally good. with more differential, when turning one side, the alula was also going up !!! ????

in dead air at the end of the day, i'm 30, 33 seconds flight.... not so much, but very funny
Old Jan 07, 2010, 01:23 PM
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Throw it like you hate it
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schamberlin View Post

Or should I cut a narrow deep channel 1mm wide and 3mm deep? On this axis the rod is very stiff and so it won't conform to the curve of the nose. I'd have to cut the channel very deep (much deeper than 3mm) in the areas of biggest nose curvature, the mount the rod inside it without any flex.
do this method. you will need to cut deep into the foam. if you have some carbon rods that conform to the nose, that would be best, but if you only have flat pieces, the method above will give you the most strength.
cheers
paul
RCG Plus Member
Old Jan 07, 2010, 02:19 PM
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still trying to get it right
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thanks for the info Bill, I am looking into perhaps making a cover to help strengthen it up some, if I do I will post results
Old Jan 07, 2010, 07:46 PM
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Quick questions for you Alula owners. How long does the charge last with the battery Michael Richter supplies(NiMH 4.8v 300mAh)? Could I fly all day on a single charge? I can't imagine the draw of the micro receiver and two micro servos could be that much. Also, does anyone know if you can run LiPo in an Alula? If so, what type of LiPo?
Last edited by chapped; Jan 07, 2010 at 08:13 PM.
Old Jan 08, 2010, 02:24 AM
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flying is not a dream
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hello,

i'm using a rhino 360 2S with a 5V regulador wich make also "model lost alarm" and "low voltage alarm". it works very well.
http://nqrc.com/?vp=PLD-BAC-LMA-004

this LIPO + this BEC is lighter than than the original NIMH battery.

for the weight, it's not really interesting in a ALULA has we need to add (too much!!) weight to have correct CG.

but for the added functions, it's interesting...


for the duration of flights..... i think you can fly about 2 hours with this configuration, but i did not make specific tests.
it depense also of your receiver. a FM receiver consume generally farless current than a 2,4ghz receiver.

i use the servos from dream-flight (excelent servo, except when you break a gear! ) and a spektrum AR6100 receiver
Old Jan 08, 2010, 11:10 AM
TyFlies is offline
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And Repairs
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carbon in nose


Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPC View Post
do this method. you will need to cut deep into the foam. if you have some carbon rods that conform to the nose, that would be best, but if you only have flat pieces, the method above will give you the most strength.
cheers
paul
I'm building my first Alula. was planning on putting some carbon strip in the nose. But now I'm wondering about the above comment about rods conforming to the nose. Is there some carbon product easily available to strengthen the nose besides inserting a sharp straight rod through the nose or making a deep slit for a strip?

And assume most people are also using reinforcing tape or bi-directional tape on the nose?

Thanks. I haven't read through all of the old Alula threads yet.
Old Jan 08, 2010, 11:20 AM
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if you have already a good pilot skill, you must go to the carbon strip way to fix the pod of your alula.
by this way you can make a good decoration.

if you are a newbie, maybe the better solution is tape for the pod.
that's what i use, and even after MANY hard crashs the pod did not break again.
the skid is VERY important. if you tape it well with the pod, it make your alula very strong.
the bad thing is for the look.... i agree...

i'm planning to buy a new alula to have it lighter (no magnet, no paint, less tape, better radio instalation) and with a better airfoil wing.

just need to be a better pilot.
Old Jan 08, 2010, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyFlies View Post
I'm building my first Alula. was planning on putting some carbon strip in the nose. But now I'm wondering about the above comment about rods conforming to the nose. Is there some carbon product easily available to strengthen the nose besides inserting a sharp straight rod through the nose or making a deep slit for a strip?

And assume most people are also using reinforcing tape or bi-directional tape on the nose?

Thanks. I haven't read through all of the old Alula threads yet.
i took some 0.050 rod, i think, and cut a slit about 2mm into the foam about an inch back from the nose to about an inch behind the wing/pod saddle area. i pushed the rod into the slit and fixed it with CA. i did not use any tape but i havent nosed the glider in very hard. i did this for reinforcing the nose for hard hand launches.
cheers
paul
RCG Plus Member
Old Jan 08, 2010, 11:57 AM
TyFlies is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPC View Post
i took some 0.050 rod, i think, and cut a slit about 2mm into the foam about an inch back from the nose to about an inch behind the wing/pod saddle area. i pushed the rod into the slit and fixed it with CA. i did not use any tape but i havent nosed the glider in very hard. i did this for reinforcing the nose for hard hand launches.
cheers
paul
Thanks to both of you. So RCPC, you didn't use the pod - but instead used carbon, is that right?

I'm an intermediate flyer, and fly wings, but I'm new to hand launch and sloping.

I'm using stock battery and stock servos. It seems like since nose weight will likely be required, I might as well use reinforcement for the weight as much as possible. But I do want to keep the wing light.
Old Jan 08, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyFlies View Post
Thanks to both of you. So RCPC, you didn't use the pod - but instead used carbon, is that right?

I'm an intermediate flyer, and fly wings, but I'm new to hand launch and sloping.

I'm using stock battery and stock servos. It seems like since nose weight will likely be required, I might as well use reinforcement for the weight as much as possible. But I do want to keep the wing light.
are you referring to the pod as the plastic belly skid plate? if so, yes, i use the pod (plastic belly skid plate) along with the carbon rods down the side of the fuse. the plastic belly plate then goes over the bottom of the fuse after i put the carbon rods on the side of the fuse. the carbon rods just help take the sideways load on the fuse when launching really hard. the fuses can break off on a hard throw and/or a nose in crash.
cheers
paul
RCG Plus Member


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