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Feb 05, 2011, 01:51 AM
Registered User
Been flying my new one for a couple of weeks now...and I love it! It really does seem to fly better than the first generation alula. Turns are tight and flat, I've even managed some light thermal flights (or maybe slermal). Definitely one to keep on hand for any breaks i get...

One question though... anyone have an idea on how to reduce the overall weight? Mine came out at 6oz exactly but required 17 grams of noseweight! I used the "stock" nimh battery with an Xps 2.4 rx and 2 D47's. I went easy on the paint and even kept most of it on the leading edge and the pod. I really can't think of anything other than placing the servos in the pod like the original... Any ideas???
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Feb 05, 2011, 08:14 AM
More Pile-it than Pilot
mdennis's Avatar
It is amazing that a 60" DLG can be made in the 8-9 oz range.

I think a few guys have got their Alulas into the 4.5 oz range by using a built up tail so they can reduce the nose weight, but I wouldn't spend a lot of time worring about it though, especially if you have a slope to fly it on.

Mark
Feb 05, 2011, 02:12 PM
flying is not a dream
lebenj's Avatar
a longer noise!
and a lighter tail
Feb 06, 2011, 03:16 AM
the answer 42 is
THe idea of a lighter plane flying longer is not totally true, each plane and profile combinations get thier best glide ratio at specific weights in the case of the alula, you will get a bubble plane that will bounce on each small wind blow, a friend of mine build his alula very heavy and it perfoms better than any other alula in the club, we have a bout 8, mine is also on the heavy side and I can stay longet than those using extra light equipement and building techniques, without counting that mine is stronger and some of them are already looking for the second one :P remeber weight is what make your plane move forward

EZ
Feb 06, 2011, 10:38 PM
'scuse me while I kiss the sky
Lafayette's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwinzea
THe idea of a lighter plane flying longer is not totally true, each plane and profile combinations get thier best glide ratio at specific weights in the case of the alula, you will get a bubble plane that will bounce on each small wind blow, a friend of mine build his alula very heavy and it perfoms better than any other alula in the club, we have a bout 8, mine is also on the heavy side and I can stay longet than those using extra light equipement and building techniques, without counting that mine is stronger and some of them are already looking for the second one :P remeber weight is what make your plane move forward

EZ
Good comment! I agree 100%
In so many threads, it is always about the weight, saving a few grams here and there...
Heavier can be better, more stability, more retained momentum, and remember that lift is a square function of speed. 2x the speed, 4x the lift. So, if a little heavier and faster, great, more lift.
The only time I would be so concerned about a few grams would be in wind conditions approaching NIL! For that I have specific equipment for such conditions, an ultralight, but would never use it for normal conditions as it would be all over the place and hard to control. I even considered the idea of having Plastic film covered foam rib wings filled with helium and flying them indoors with a couple of space heaters to simulate thermals.
But now, would you take that bird to the hill on a Sunday afternoon???
All should try a glide test, varying ballast, to see the best performance of your own bird.
Also, remember that drag is also a square function of speed, 2x the speed, 4x the drag.
In aerodynamics, the lift-to-drag ratio, or L/D ratio, is the amount of lift generated by a wing or vehicle, divided by the drag it creates by moving through the air. A higher or more favorable L/D ratio is typically one of the major goals in aircraft design; since a particular aircraft's required lift is set by its weight, delivering that lift with lower drag leads directly to better fuel economy, climb performance, and glide ratio. In powered application, overcome the drag with power, but in this case the best thing is to keep it slick and clean, that will do more for flight performance than a few grams of reduced weight...
Feb 07, 2011, 03:21 PM
aka KF7DS

Rx Choice


All:

Just finished my Weasel and am beginning my Alula build and have a question regarding my receiver and transmitter choice.

I am standardized on the Hitec/Optima Rx series as I have an A9 Tx, but from the look of things, either an Optima 6 or 7 Rx is just gonna be TOO big for the Alula (the physical length with everything plugged in).

Hitec is coming out with their small Minima series, but the first of the units are not due until late March/Early April.

I have a DX6i as well as some 6110e Rxs (which would be perfect size and weight wise in the Alula) that I kept when I made the transition from Specktrum to Hitec that I could use in the Alula. However, I recall that there was a problem with the DX6i and the Elevon function/mix pre-programmed into the DX6i...anyone know about this? I thought there was a work around......

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Don
Feb 07, 2011, 04:11 PM
Registered User
Don, have a look at this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ht=dx6i+elevon
Feb 07, 2011, 04:19 PM
Never enough time to fly!
ecase's Avatar
I use a DX6i and an AR6110e. I never made any of the adjustments referred to and my Alula flies great.
Feb 08, 2011, 06:42 AM
Registered User
wijwoj's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by donsinger1
I am standardized on the Hitec/Optima Rx series as I have an A9 Tx, but from the look of things, either an Optima 6 or 7 Rx is just gonna be TOO big for the Alula (the physical length with everything plugged in).

Hitec is coming out with their small Minima series, but the first of the units are not due until late March/Early April.
Hi Don,

I have just received a couple of the new Optima 6 Lites delivered from Hobby Horse and they are pretty good. Just 8.5g and full range. I haven't tried to get it into my alula yet, and I would probably take the laminated paper case case off and add a bit of heatshrink around it, but I reckon you could squeeze it in.

See the thread here:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...e#post16843280

Cheers,

Wij.
Feb 08, 2011, 09:21 AM
aka KF7DS
Quote:
Originally Posted by wijwoj
Hi Don,

I have just received a couple of the new Optima 6 Lites delivered from Hobby Horse and they are pretty good. Just 8.5g and full range. I haven't tried to get it into my alula yet, and I would probably take the laminated paper case case off and add a bit of heatshrink around it, but I reckon you could squeeze it in.

See the thread here:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...e#post16843280

Cheers,

Wij.
Thanks..knew about the 6 Lites...I always take these Rxs out of the case and wrap in heat shrink on all my gliders, and the 6s weigh around 10g that way.

But, it is not the weight that is a concern, but rather the physical length with everything plugged in (servos and spc).

Let me know if you had to do extensive foam surgery to get it in. I had to cut foam on my Weasel to get a 6 in, but not enough to compromise the strength of the fuselage; however, I do not think that would be the case with the Alula.

Don
Feb 09, 2011, 03:15 AM
Yes, I know it's upside down.

Instructions???


Just took my box from the store room to finally begin my build, and I've lost the instructions!!! I searched on the internet, and only found some old instructions for the original Alula, that don't really seem applicable to the new moulded EPO-style one. Is there a document available anywhere?
Feb 09, 2011, 10:51 PM
Registered User


Alula launch within sight of the Golden Gate Bridge. Not the cleanest launch but got a few passes off the low sea wall. No tourist casualties
Feb 10, 2011, 03:20 AM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrow
Just took my box from the store room to finally begin my build, and I've lost the instructions!!! I searched on the internet, and only found some old instructions for the original Alula, that don't really seem applicable to the new moulded EPO-style one. Is there a document available anywhere?
Got a .PDF of the instructions emailed to me by the man himself. Thanks Michael!!

After reading them, I was surprised that the wings are held on only by tape. Does anyone glue them on, or is the tape more than sufficient? I can just see that being a little flexible perhaps. What does everyone do?
Feb 10, 2011, 04:32 AM
the answer 42 is
Read the instructions propertly, the tape is the last step, after gluing :P

EZ
Feb 10, 2011, 05:35 AM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwinzea
Read the instructions propertly, the tape is the last step, after gluing :P

EZ
I've been over it 5 times. Seriously, I can't find it in there!

"Page 10 - Step 35 Attaching Wings to Body:

Slide wing onto fuselage by aligning black plastic wing jointer tube with round carbon-fiber spar. Turn glider over and press parts firmly together to close the gap. Using masking tape, temporarily secure pieces together. Turn glider upside down and apply supplied plastic tape along bottom join in two pieces as shown. Turn glider over and carefully remove masking tape. Apply plastic tape to full length of top wing joint. Using two pieces of plastic tape, start at control surface hinge line and work forwards. For a cleaner look, apply a strop of tape over channel containing plastic wing joiner tube. Repeat for other wing."


Not a single mention of glue. The only glue is earlier when you glue the black tubes into the recess in the wing, but there is never any mention of glue where the wing and fuselage foam overlaps, only taping over where they join.

Post #85 in this thread concurs with this, but I was wondering if that was people did, or if they did end up using glue.
Last edited by Harrow; Feb 10, 2011 at 05:42 AM.


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